Fairtax4me Posted January 21, 2012 Share Posted January 21, 2012 It was just a suggestion. If you really want the upgrade knock yourself out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 I don't mean to offend anyone here, all i want is any helpful idea's in getting my car up and running again. The reason i asked was when i looked up the number given 14412AA360 at 1stsubaruparts.com they said its not a subaru part number. Do not know if its for another subaru, but its not for 04 forester xt. Its a god way to go, just not the only one. Thanks for all the info so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Ok got the spark plugs out, the color is good but the electrodes are worn down and look like pin points with gaps that are twice as wide as the replacement plugs. All are dry and are from tan to tan-white, as the FSM states they should be. This tells me the HG's are alright, and i can move on to the turbo to check the filters. Once again i want to thank everyone for there ideas, all of which have been helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 The "pin point" electrode is probably an Iridium or platinum tip design. Whats the part number on the side of the plugs? http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp?mode=nml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted January 27, 2012 Share Posted January 27, 2012 Ok got the spark plugs out, the color is good but the electrodes are worn down and look like pin points with gaps that are twice as wide as the replacement plugs. All are dry and are from tan to tan-white, as the FSM states they should be. This tells me the HG's are alright, and i can move on to the turbo to check the filters.Once again i want to thank everyone for there ideas, all of which have been helpful. color sounds good, and most important - the same across them so, as you say, time to look for an issue common to all cylinders - the intake. Triple check the PCV valve/hoses and other breather hoses. But it's not looking good for the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted January 27, 2012 Author Share Posted January 27, 2012 OK the spark plugs are NGK IR, with marking ILFR6B and they all come to a pin point just like http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp?mode=nml says they should be. All are dry, no oil or other fluids like coolant, or carbon build up. Lead me to think the HG is good, but have not done a leak down check, need to get the tool for that. Will be moving on to check filters at the turbo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 I went to pull the PCV valve off to check it out and clean it out and found a clamp that i have never removed before, the FSM gives a tool #18353AA000 and called it a "Clamp plier". The Subaru parts sites don't list tools, so my question is where can i get a pair? I know that someone here can point me in the right direction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted January 31, 2012 Share Posted January 31, 2012 Does it look kinda like this? http://compare.ebay.com/like/120624968015?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar I just use regular channel lock pliers on those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted January 31, 2012 Author Share Posted January 31, 2012 No its not that type, its a French tool company http://www.caillau.fr/products.php?ln=en&mn=clic&sub=pose I have been trying to find this tool in the U.S. but do not know if the GM tool will work or not. Has anyone found a tool that works on this Clir clamp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 1, 2012 Share Posted February 1, 2012 Oh yeah those things. I just use a flat head screwdriver to pry them apart. Then I replace them with a different style clamp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 1, 2012 Author Share Posted February 1, 2012 Thanks that's an easy way around the damn things, and a lot cheaper then that tool. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 Pulled the intercooler off today, to have some room to get the PCV valve out and get to the in/out oil line's on the side of the turbo. I found that there is more oil being sent from the turbo into the intercooler then going into the throttle body. My next move is to pull the banjo bolts to see if the filters are blocked, but should i do the pcv valve now that i have some room to work in? With the help of all who have given time and intelligence in getting me this far, " All man are my superior, in that i can learn from them" Thank you one and all. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 2, 2012 Share Posted February 2, 2012 If the PCV valve is not easy to access replacing it while you have room is a good move. If there is a large amount of oil in the turbo then it may be the source of the oil which would mean the bearings are worn excessively. Did you check the shaft for play? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 2, 2012 Author Share Posted February 2, 2012 No i haven't done that yet, but will have it on my to do list for tomorrow. I will order the pcv valve and then pull it. After i have that out i'll pull the bolts to check the screens, if there blocked i'll order them too. Then i'll check for any play, with the intercooler out of the way it be a lot easier to pull the banjo bolts. At that point i'll have to choose to replace the core of the turbo, or have the whole thing re-manufactured. I am an old fart and always enjoyed having a few extra horse power, but can also work with a working turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 Ok Guys took off the exhaust down pipe, removed the bracket, and most of the hoses. There are 2 i am not sure of, the oil line that comes off the right side of the turbo and goes down to the rear of the head on the right side and is bolted there but goes under the turbo to the left side and has 2 bolts to that side and then goes to the reservoir. The other comes out the bottom of the turbo, but i can't see it at this point maybe after i loosen the first pipe. Any easy way to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 One other thing i reached into the back of the turbo, to check the blades and there was a lot of movement. I will check the amount of play once i have it out. Thanks again for all the info, and help so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Take a close look at the edges of the blades. In cases of extreme wear, the shaft will move enough to allow the blades to hit the housing. This will leave marks on the housing and sharpen the edges of the blades. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Once again i need some help, there is one banjo bolt to the rear end of the head that i can't get to. My question is this do i have to remove the up pipe to get at it, or is there any other way. Have tryed short wrench but can't break it loose, long wrenches won't fit because the rail is in the way. Sockets won't clear the stud from the up-pipe. If removing the up-pipe is the only way, i'll do it just looking for the easies way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Is there enough room to double wrench it? Hook the boxed end of a longer wrench on the open end of the short wrench for more leverage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 I'll give that a try before taken the up-pipe off, one way or the other it will come off. Thank for the advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 The oil pipe that goes over the turbo was holding it in place, 2 flair wrenches move it 45% and the turbo lifted right off. When i checked for movement it was easily 1/16" to 1/8" movement, which i for one think is a lot of movement. Have packed it up for shipping to 6 star speed for porting and polishing, which they say will give 10 to 20 HP (which would not be a bad thing). The red wrinkle coating on the compressor housing, and black ceramic coating on the turbine will keep temps down somewhat. Lastly a full remanufactoring of the core. Anyone know the parts numbers for the exhaust shank bolts and nuts that go with them. Would also like to replace the 14mm nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust. Thanks again for all the help. By the way the wrench on wrench got the last banjo bolt off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 When i checked for movement it was easily 1/16" to 1/8" movement, which i for one think is a lot of movement. Yeah, there is a small amount of play which is considered normal but it's in the low hundredths of an inch range IIRC. Pretty much un-noticeable by hand feel. 1/8" is a LOT of play. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 I came across some TSB one of which seams interesting to me about turbo banjo bolts. When I took off the banjo bolts i found one of the smaller hole ones, which means the turbo's don't/can't get all the oil needed and burns them out. I wonder if this is a repair the SOA should be doing on all turbo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 It's probably that way to limit oil flow in the turbo, and keep pressure up in other parts of the engine. The turbo is fed by the same gallery that feeds the camshaft and rockers in the passenger side head. If too much oil is allowed to flow into the turbo, the camshaft may be starved and seize, which is a much more damaging condition than worn bearings in the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
92svxman Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Hey John i do understand that the oil is needed to cover all moving parts, used to work on airplanes and was the same. Getting too little oil to parts that are high R.P.S. is going to burn up the turbo, and its Subaru short coming in there design of the oil line and banjo bolt size, the rest of the banjo bolts have openings of .165 and the turbo's banjo bolt is only .055. How many turbo's have been burned out because of this, and we as the drivers have to spend big bucks to get them fixed when it should be Subaru covering the coats. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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