January 18, 201214 yr Removal is pretty straightforward. Right disconnect battery first, again, unless you like sparks... There is a long bolt at the top, and a nut, 14mm head iirc, on the bottom. The nut on the bottom is the hardest part of the job. On re installation, make sure to get the ground cable reattached (Sometimes people forget and leave it unhooked).
January 19, 201214 yr Author So..I took the starter out...took it to a starter repair place...they changed the contacts and the plunger parts 15+labor 15..pretty awesome..they tested it and said it was good to go...stuck it back on..and still same click...no start...I opened up the fuse box and found the "fusible link" was fried..literally(there were ashes!) I replaced that..and still same click..no start...tried jumping it again..still nothing.... So...no idea where to go from here.....
January 19, 201214 yr Have you checked the timing belt yet? If you've PROVEN the starter is o.k.. And REPLACED cables/wires running to the starter. Extra engine resistence is where I'd check next.
January 19, 201214 yr Author Timing belt was just replaced last week..I checked down there and cover is on, didn't delve in...to be honest..I don't know how to check engine resistance. Have you checked the timing belt yet? If you've PROVEN the starter is o.k.. And REPLACED cables/wires running to the starter. Extra engine resistence is where I'd check next.
January 19, 201214 yr You can't check engine reistance easily. What you CAN do is make sure atleast the cam sprocket notch's are lined up with the timing belt rear cover. Compression check may help too. If EVERYTHING with the starter is checking out. It's kinda gotta be the engine or the trans is stopping the engine from turning normally. Or we need to start second guessing.
January 19, 201214 yr A burned Fusible link is not a good sign. Do you have a multimeter or even just a test light so you can check that the starter wire is getting 12v when the key is turned. Also, did you ever test and/or charge the battery? Made sure the negative cable is tight on the engine end?
January 19, 201214 yr wow! maybe a borescope inspection of each cylinder? is this a manual? I might be tempted to try and pop the clutch (ignition off) - maybe in reverse, just to see if the crank will turn. also, wondering if a piece of pulley or tensioner or ??? could jam the crank pulley?
January 19, 201214 yr Even with the fusible link blown, it doesn't make sense that the starter still would not crank in the vehicle, with the solenoid jumped to the battery plus terminal. The starter + lead does not go through the fusible link. So that may indicate problems with the battery + and ground leads to the starter.
January 19, 201214 yr Even with the fusible link blown, it doesn't make sense that the starter still would not crank in the vehicle, with the solenoid jumped to the battery plus terminal. The starter + lead does not go through the fusible link. So that may indicate problems with the battery + and ground leads to the starter. Thus the possible "second guessing" of electrical side. OR looking for a problem on the mechanical side or why it's so hard to turn. We could suggest putting a breaker bar on and turning the crank but if he's never done it before he wouldn't know what oo much resistance was anyways - unless it wouldn't turn at all.
January 19, 201214 yr Hm yes this car has some problems... Was it in a flood or anything? For trying to turn the crank, if you can get a 22mm socket and a long handled ratchet, you could give turning it by hand a try as mentioned to see if it at least turns. It takes a little force to overcome the compression, but if you really have to lay on it or get a pipe and it won't budge something is wrong. Is that what might happen if the main/crank bearings were eaten up or damaged from overheating?
January 19, 201214 yr Even with the fusible link blown, it doesn't make sense that the starter still would not crank in the vehicle, with the solenoid jumped to the battery plus terminal. The starter + lead does not go through the fusible link. So that may indicate problems with the battery + and ground leads to the starter. OK, just a stupid thought but, there's no way the battery has been connected in reverse, or the car jump started with reversed leads I suppose? might explain some of the subsequent electrical problems, and maybe it threw off the timing if the crank was spun backwards? Is that possible? Doesn't seemlike the solenoid would work but I'm not sure with all the bypass jumpering........ The only time I've heard of engines being spun backwards is from tow trucks picking up FWD cars and dragging them off. Throws the TB off sometimes. I know - a real reach.
January 19, 201214 yr Hm...interesting questions....if the starter did spin backwards, would it even extend to engage the flywheel? I don't know exactly how the soobs do it but the Bendix drive styles need to turn in a certain direction to extend I think. Hooking the battery backwards might explain the blown fusible link?
January 19, 201214 yr Author @porcupine73..car's never been in a flood... So I'm just as stumped...Just called my mech to have it towed and looked at...think we tried as much as we could...as much as I was looking forward to avoiding another cost...think I have to at this point....will update on what happens...if anything...(Que up the sad music....) ..
January 20, 201214 yr Even with the fusible link blown, it doesn't make sense that the starter still would not crank in the vehicle, with the solenoid jumped to the battery plus terminal. The starter + lead does not go through the fusible link. So that may indicate problems with the battery + and ground leads to the starter. No but just connecting a jumper wire to the starter won't make it engage. Still needs 12v on the small wire to kick the solenoid over. Burnt out fusible link, could be a burnt out relay or two along the line as well. Anywhere between the ignition switch and starer that is making poor contact or is corroded/burned out. Or between the battery and ignition switch, same deal. The click he's hearing might not even be the starter, it could be one of the relays under the dash clicking over when it gets power.
January 20, 201214 yr That's what I'm talking about, the small wire that engages the solenoid. If the thick starter ground and + cables are connected....and the little spade lug on the starter is jumped to the battery +....and it still doesn't crank (which from reading this sounded to me like that the OP is saying happened), then what to do? If the starter tested good out of the vehicle, but then does not work in the vehicle when this test is done, could be the battery cables? Engine siezed?
January 20, 201214 yr If the starter tested good out of the vehicle, but then does not work in the vehicle when this test is done, could be the battery cables? Engine siezed? Works with no load, but the contacts can't conduct the 300-400 or so amps needed to crank the engine. Pull the cap of the end of the solenoid, and replace the copper contacts. Should be less than $15 bucks. Or just get a whole rebuilt starter, for $100+
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