gl kool Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Yesterday my carb finally took the dive. It's been running rough for a while, idling at 2000 rpms, won't stay running until it's warm and has almost zero power in anything under 2000 rpms. I've just been figuring that it's vacuum lines but everything seemed to be connected right, except the egr has been plugged where it pumps into the intake, could this cause problems? or maybe some internal choke problems? Well yesterday while I was driving and my car decided It wanted full throttle... All the time! Anyway I got it home and fiddled with it and everything mechanically seems sound. So I figure now would be a good time to either rebuild the carb or go with the webber option.*** A couple questions I have are: With a rebuild what kind of emissions stuff can I get rid of and simplify things under the hood as much as possible? (I don't have to worry about smog)*** And with the weber I've been hearing a lot of things about the parts and jets being hard to find. Is there any other carb options that would be easy to source parts for and still give me some more much needed power and performance.*** Any help is greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Oh yeah and it's a 86 gl wagon 5 speed dual range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BratWarrior Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Go with the Weber. You want the 32/36 DGV with a SHORT air cleaner. You have to get the adapter plate, and do a bit of modding, but nothing crazy. You can get rid of virtually EVERY piece of emissions crap. TONS of information in this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29778 What part of Oregon do you live in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 And with the weber I've been hearing a lot of things about the parts and jets being hard to find. Where did you hear that? Is there any other carb options that would be easy to source parts for and still give me some more much needed power and performance.*** Doubtful, the Weber 32/36 is a fairly universal carb that can be installed on a myraid of vehicles. Parts should be fairly easy to come by, but you might have to order them. If I wasn't going FI on all my cars I would have a Weber 32/36 on my '81 Hatchback, '88 Justy, and '82 Jeep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) Go with the Weber. What part of Oregon do you live in? Yeah thats the way I wanna go. It's the best option, I just might have to hold off for awhile, due to lack of a stable work place. Can I still get rid of emmisins crap if I stay the stock hitachi? I'm down in Corvallis Edited February 15, 2012 by gl kool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Where did you hear that? I just read somewhere that weber went out of business or changed hands or something and my not continue making carbs but idk maybe just some rumors or something I made up in my head hahah:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Can I still get rid of emmisins crap if I stay the stock hitachi? I am more familiar with '84 and older Hitachis but yes you can ditch most of the emissions stuff. I am running a de-emissioned Hitachi in my '81, but I kept the charcoal vapor canister. You can keep the EGR valve too. I'm down in Corvallis Lucky I lived there for 9 years, great place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 So I finally found a place to work on my soob. Got the carb pulled yesterday and I plan to start the disassembly and cleaning today. ***This is my first rebuild so I plan to take it slow and be as careful and methodical as I can. Since this is my first rebuild I there anything ***I should watch out for or be especially careful or worried about?*** I can't wait to get this done and get my Subaru back on the road (and off it!) then I can finally start working on custom bumpers and a lift:headbang: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 I am in Corvallis too. I've rebuilt many of these hitachi carbs. Give me a call if you need some help. 541-207-6544 or 541-929-4140 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 Thanks man I really appreciate it. I'll probably be taking advantage of that I'm a little intimidated haha so many little parts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edrach Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 And with the weber I've been hearing a lot of things about the parts and jets being hard to find. Is there any other carb options that would be easy to source parts for and still give me some more much needed power and performance.*** Any help is greatly appreciated! Weber parts are easy to come by if you buy new. Used is a little more difficult but they show up all the time. No problem buying jets and parts from the two main distributors. Also, if smog becomes an issue my Brats have always passed emissions here in WA state with the weber and all emissions junk removed. Now it's not an issue since they are more than 25 years old and no longer required to pass smog test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 so i started disassembly today, didnt have too many problems until i got to the choke. i had spryed everything with pb blaster the night before and even gave it a quick spraydown before i tryed to undo the little screws holding it on. the first one broke free just fine but i started the second one and it didnt want to budge. Also because of the tube that enters the at the top of the carb and the angle of the choke, i couldnt get the full head of the driver in the screw. So i guess i got a little over zealous and i ended up striping the screw can you guys think of any other ways to get the screw out other than drilling it? any suggestions will help ill post a picture for refrence. never mind i cant figure out how to upload a picture but ill keep trying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKghandi Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 for the pics i think you need to host the pic on another site like photobucket then link them to your posts. i just post videos. much easier and for the striped screw i cant visualize the problem but maybe a dremal with a cutting wheel to turn it into a flathead? or maybe weld a nut to the top of the screw. just ideas tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
naru Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 so i started disassembly today, didnt have too many problems until i got to the choke. i had spryed everything with pb blaster the night before and even gave it a quick spraydown before i tryed to undo the little screws holding it on. the first one broke free just fine but i started the second one and it didnt want to budge. Also because of the tube that enters the at the top of the carb and the angle of the choke, i couldnt get the full head of the driver in the screw. So i guess i got a little over zealous and i ended up striping the screw can you guys think of any other ways to get the screw out other than drilling it? any suggestions will help ill post a picture for refrence. never mind i cant figure out how to upload a picture but ill keep trying It is probably staked in.Leave it where it is.No good reason to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) heres the pic Edited February 23, 2012 by gl kool Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 and for the striped screw i cant visualize the problem but maybe a dremal with a cutting wheel to turn it into a flathead? or maybe weld a nut to the top of the screw. just ideas tho i tried the dremal but i just couldnt get the cutting disk down in there. i would be a little worried about welding because its in the carb, maybe a little jb weldon on the tip of a screwdriver? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 Is this still attached to the car? If so you should remove it before you get crap in your manifold. You can take the choke body off the top, (remove the needle and float) and get access to the underside of those screws. They go all the way through the choke shaft, and if I remember correctly they stick out a tiny bit on the underside. When I had this happen to me I think I approached it that way with some vice-grips or small pliers. I replaced them with some small stainless allen head screws. Even if you can't get vice-grips on them, if you drill the screw from the underside the bit will try unscrewing the screw at the same time. Or you could just leave it in there and clean it almost as well during the rebuild. Since this sounds like your first rebuild, I recommend you have a manual, Haynes will work fine for this procedure. Tape the small parts to a piece of cardboard with transparent tape as you remove them and label them with their name and the step # in the manual procedure. Reassembly is reverse of disassembly so the stepwise labeling makes that easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted February 23, 2012 Author Share Posted February 23, 2012 Is this still attached to the car? If so you should remove it before you get crap in your manifold. You can take the choke body off the top, (remove the needle and float) and get access to the underside of those screws. They go all the way through the choke shaft, and if I remember correctly they stick out a tiny bit on the underside. When I had this happen to me I think I approached it that way with some vice-grips or small pliers. I replaced them with some small stainless allen head screws. yeah i already pulled the carb, i've got it on a bench in my shop. but yeah you are right they stick out just a bit on the bottom but i didnt think i could get to them. thanks for the info thats a great idea! I'm definitely going to try that tomorrow. so when i take the choke body off i should be able to rotate the choke enough in the carb to get a grip on the back of the bolt? ive been working off a guide that came with the rebuild kit, its a little vague but it shows all the parts and labels them and gives a disassembly order. ive been bagging and labeling all the parts i remove and ive been take notes of my progress so i think i should be ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferox Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 so when i take the choke body off i should be able to rotate the choke enough in the carb to get a grip on the back of the bolt? I can't remember for sure, it's been a while since I had to do this. I think I would probably either try to drill from the backside or just leave it in there and clean around it. ive been working off a guide that came with the rebuild kit, its a little vague but it shows all the parts and labels them and gives a disassembly order. ive been bagging and labeling all the parts i remove and ive been take notes of my progress so i think i should be ok Sounds like you've got it handled. The Haynes manual isn't good for much, but it has a decent carb rebuild section if you find that the piece of paper in the kit isn't adequate. See if you can find one used though, because you will probably only use it one time if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gl kool Posted April 19, 2012 Author Share Posted April 19, 2012 hey guys back again been working alot so haven't had much to work on my sube, but hopefully ill have some extra money to get som projects done. well i was planning on rebuilding my old hitachi, which i still am but just for experience and to have a back up carb. anyway as is most logical im going with the weber swap:banana: now ive got pretty everything together and i just mounted the adapter plate and carb, but ive got a coupe questions. thanks to loyale 2.7 turbo i got the pvc stuff figured out, but i was just wondering about about jets. i got the carb off a buddy toyota 22r should i re-jet it? if so what size combanations have worked best for you guys? also doesmit matter which vacuum line you rout to the weber? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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