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98 Outback misfire

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I have a recently rebuilt 1998 Outback w/ only 140000 overall miles. Every since being rebuilt it has cut out right around 2-3000 rpm and is a little worse under load. It has been back to shop many times new wires assorted valves injectors etc. they have even driven it for a week at a time and were never able to fix it. I have moved so need some new ideas. It is all original except for a viper alarm system completely replacing the stk one and has a shock sensor.

Thanks in advance.

Welcome to USMB.

 

On a 2.5 with those miles I'd start with OEM plug wires, and perhaps new NGK plugs while the wires are off.

 

Were the wires installed something the local parts place had (and made a huge markup on) or OEM some have luck I believe with NGK wires. But other than that they usually don't work too well.

 

Knowing the P code(s) would help too.

 

An alternator check may be worth the time. When a Subaru alternator starts to go a few other idiot lights light up (ABS and something else unrelated - I forget), and you loose top end. I don't recall them missing but they do loose top end. Then when you let it set the battery rejuvinates itself and you can drive the car again, and the top end keeps getting lower and lower again.

 

So real P codes, have alt checked for kicks if you can as more of a longshot.

 

We're gonna know what specific plugs were installed too.

why was it rebuilt?

 

Might doublecheck the timing belt timing. If it was rebuilt because of TB failure, a leakdown test might find a bent valve. Maybe there is fuel starvation, might check fuel pump output. brief test with the exhaust loose might point to a clogged cat conv. - longshot on that.

Has the front 02 sensor ever been replaced? If not, I would do that.

I have a recently rebuilt 1998 Outback w/ only 140000 overall miles. Every since being rebuilt it has cut out right around 2-3000 rpm and is a little worse under load. It has been back to shop many times new wires assorted valves injectors etc. they have even driven it for a week at a time and were never able to fix it. I have moved so need some new ideas. It is all original except for a viper alarm system completely replacing the stk one and has a shock sensor.

Thanks in advance.

 

Like what was said above do a compression test first to check the overall condition of the engine.Who did the rebuild and what was done?

 

When you say cut out ,do you mean the engines idles and runs normally then at 2- 3000 rpm it dies, or the rpm's drop back and it still runs, or you hit 2- 3000 and it cuts out and you give more throttle and then the rpm will increase beyond 2- 3000 normally?

Edited by Robert Harik

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