Uberoo Posted March 23, 2012 Share Posted March 23, 2012 (edited) I am putting the finishing touches on my 81 EJ22 hatch.Right now my only concern is the return line.I know on the engine the reline line is the one that feeds into the pressure regulator.my problem comes with the car itself.the car originally had a computer controlled EA71,so the return line is very small,like 1/8" inside diameter.I am wondering if that will flow enough to return the fuel from the ej22? Edited March 26, 2012 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 (edited) ok so I try to start it after I have everything hooked up and it didnt start.pulled a spark plug and no spark so that tells me the computer is somehow not getting voltage.So I got out my my multimeter and started checking for voltage.I have voltage at the constant hot wire for the computer,when the ignition is switched on I have voltage to the wires that is supposed to be hot in run and start,and I have voltage to the start wire,BUT I HAVE NO VOLTAGE to the the ignition relay. is there something Ive missed?the harness and ECU came out of a running car.Any ideas on where to check before I unsolder all the connections the harness has to car and lay out everything on my floor and start again? there is power all the way up to the original yellow wire splice that that should be hot in start or run from there one wire goes toward to engine to power up that part of the harness and the other one goes to computer to power it on.even if the memory wire for the computer wasnt connected it should still start and run. if anything there is only one wire attached permanently to car,everything else has connectors..except that wire requires taking apart the dash. Edited March 24, 2012 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 I ended up using the larger Evap line as my return. Use the return line as the vent. IIRC...i swapped the lines at the tank though so that the return wasn't going up to the filler neck. Now....for power issues. So...no 12v to the Ignition relay? You're battery power wire should feed 2 of the IG. relay terminals. The IG relay should be either triggered directly from the switch in "run" (OBD 1) or from the ECU (ODB II) Which are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 ob1 91 intake manifold,wiring harness and ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 24, 2012 Share Posted March 24, 2012 So....Check the IG relay. Make sure the thick yellow wires going into the IG relay and the FP relay all have 12v+ constant. This wire also feeds power to the Fuel Injectors Then check the Light green wire for switched 12v. This wire feeds both the ECU and the trigger for the IG relay. The thin yellow wire of the FP relay should also be tied into switched 12v + And of course, make sure the black wire of the IG relay is grounded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 I have no power whatso ever at the ignition relay on any wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I have no power whatso ever at the ignition relay on any wire. Do you have any power to the yellow wires that feed the Injectors? Should be on the same circuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) It's easy to miss the small yellow "key switched" wire to the diode in the harness near the ECM. Neither relay will energize without this. So far I am getting away with the small return line and my swap runs great. Not sure of long term effects on the fuel pump though. Like Gloyale says the large yellow wires going to the relays MUST have constant fused power from the battery. Also, go through ALL the ECM pinouts and make sure you didn't miss a ground or two somewhere in the harness. Good Luck! Edited March 25, 2012 by Crazyeights Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) ok got the harness out and partially stripped. constant hot just goes to B48 15. switched hot goes to the little yellow wire in the fuel pump relay and B58 12. all of the yellow wires from the ignition relay splices into a wire to the engine. the light green wire from the ignition relay goes into a wire splice that goes to F47 9 and the engine. the black ignition relay wire is grounded and is the only ground I have. Edited March 25, 2012 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 so I spliced a wire from constant 12 to the large yellow wires for relays same with the ecm wire 12V constant has hooked to originally,then a switched 12v wire from the light green relay to the other switched 12v.got it all hooked up.nothing in the car is soldered or in its proper place.gonna try turning it on and see what happens before I put everything in final.then my battery is junk.it charged all of yesterday,and it was disconected and its still flat.so its on a 50 amp start charge.in 30 minutes ill go out there and see if I can get this thing popping!from what I understand it should have 12V at all the right places(switched and constant). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I'll have to look at my notes but it sounds like you might be missing some grounds. I think I recall quite a few that I tied in to a couple that bolt to the block. Review the ECM pinouts (the grounds are all listed) and see that you aren't missing some. (sorry if you have already covered this) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 it sill doesnt start but now I can smell gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) so it looks like F47 14,B48 11,and B48 22 are supposed to be grounded.is that correct or is more needed?all three of those wires tap into a rather large bundle of grounds in the harness. so I added those three grounds now and once again my battery is complete crap..I need to fully charge it and see if its any good at all. Edited March 26, 2012 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 (edited) it still wont start.I thought maybe that the choice in wires for start and run wasn't working so I checked them again.I can't find a wire that is 12V plus when I am cranking,the ones that have voltage are 8-9V.I can't even get the thing to pop.timing is right. even running the start wire directly off the small wire on the starter doesn't help.Pulled a spark plug and Im still not getting spark. Edited March 26, 2012 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazyeights Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 If you plug in the green test connectors with the key on do the fuel pump and relays pulse on and off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted March 26, 2012 Author Share Posted March 26, 2012 yea they pulsed on and off, same with the light in the computer.They kept pulseing even after I unplugged the green connectors and turned the key to off.They quit when I pulled the fuse front the memory wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 where does the coil pack get its power from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 where does the coil pack get its power from? Should be connected to the switched power source. Yellow wire, before it goes into the diode, back out to the ECU. It connected near the diode from factory, then goes through the SMJ out to the coil. So maybe you cut it out of the SMJ by mistake? It's probably the most common error on OBD I strip-downs...becuase it connects in a round about way to both the ECU and engine connectors. It can seem like it can be cut. But needs to have 12v to yellow wire on coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 6, 2012 Author Share Posted April 6, 2012 that wire has power.on the engine side of the diode that wire is yellow.the wire on the other side of the diode is light green and splits up.One of those splits is the ignition relay switch which is connected to ignition power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 that wire has power.on the engine side of the diode that wire is yellow.the wire on the other side of the diode is light green and splits up.One of those splits is the ignition relay switch which is connected to ignition power. Correct, the light green wire goes to both the IG. relay and to the ECU. But does the yellow wire at the coil have 12v? If not, it needs to be reconnected to the yellow wire, before the diode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 7, 2012 Author Share Posted April 7, 2012 so your saying I need to bypass the diode with switched power? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 Feul return line i drill out the return spigot and use the spigot of of a carb tap the tank to match spigot i put about ten inch of meatal feul line sodered to the spigot thread it into tank making shure the meatal feul line is close to bottom of tank thiss makes a good return line and dosent airate the feul have done many thiss way needs to have at least a 5/16 return line or cant move enuff feul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 7, 2012 Share Posted April 7, 2012 so your saying I need to bypass the diode with switched power? No.....Power goes to the yellow wire. Before the diode, there is a split that sends power out to the coil and a few other things in the harness. Other side of that split goes though the diode, becomes the light green wire. In the factory setup that wire splits from the Alt. 1 circuit, to the engine side of the SMJ, then comes in through it to feed to the relay and ECU. SO it's confusing and easy to cut since it doesn't originate from the ECU side of the SMJ. Plus IIRC, cutting just that one wire, makes the harness lay out much nicer. Anyhow....you need switched 12v to the center pin of the coil. Find the yellow wire to the coil in the harness near the engine connector. I think It'll be at pin 4 of the grey engine connector. Connect that wire to the switched 12v that feeds to the diode (connect) on the yellow side of the diode. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uberoo Posted April 18, 2012 Author Share Posted April 18, 2012 (edited) SHE LIVES!!!!!!!!!!! I connected a wire from switched hot to the yellow wire of the diode and she fired right up.Ran PURRFECT.Hitting on all 4 no stumbling or missing.Didn't run it for long because the radiator isnt hooked up but just long enough to hear it bellowing out its subaru song with just its y pipe for an exhaust.. EDIT: there is a small 5/16" tube fitting on the IAC.Does that little hose connect to the intake tract after the MAF like everything else does? Edited April 18, 2012 by Uberoo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.