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1996 Legacy L 5spd Overheating


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hello everybody, I have an ongoing overheating issue with no sign of milky oil HG symptoms but still need to check for combustion gasses. originally started happening after replacing the thermostat with a non OEM part, heater blows cold, temp gauge goes all the way hot, radiator cold to the touch, overflow bottle full, replaced with another non OEM stat and overheated after 24 hours of normal temp, drove it hot to the dealer, replaced it with a genuine subaru thermostat, ran at normal operating temp for a week then the same symptoms came back, replaced radiator and flushed cooling system today, using a flush tee, ran cool for a few hours including 30mins on the freeway at 70mph then overheated again. drove it after an hour or so and was fine for another freeway run, temp gauge raised up then immediately came back to normal, eventually got home from the store and got hot pulling onto my street.

 

- Bled radiator from vent plug during initial fill

- lots of steam coming from the vent plug if opened when hot coming from upper rad hose, coolant in radiator cool

 

anyways time for bed any input would be appreciated thanks

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Most likely either faulty thermostats or air in the system. Is your heater blowing cold air after the car is warmed up? If so then it is probably air in the system. Its tricky to get it all out when you fill it up, especially after replacing radiator and thermostats etc. the EJ22 used in the L trim level is not prone to head gasket issues so I wouldnt immediately suspect that. I suppose it could be a failing water pump too? I am sure some of the mechanics on here will chime in about what they think is most likely given the symptoms.

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Look for bubbles in over flow bottle when running hot = head gasket i put shop air into cly and look for bubbles in over flow one cly at time. Piston must be at top and have to hold the crank with bar i put 120 psi in cly and should hold with no leaks if air is geting into cooling syestem needs head gaskets. Almost evry weird cooling problem i get is headgasket i chek them first.

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UBDATE- checked for water pump flow today and pissed out like a garden hose out the heater hose outlet, w/p spinning, not seized up, checked for a restriction in the heater core, blew air through both sides. filled up, bled system, let fans cycle drove it all evening and around 11 tonight the heat cut out and the gauge pegged immediatly overflow bottle full rad pressurized but cold coolant. turned around got in my 91 loyale and will continue tomorrow.

 

POSSIBILITIES AS OF NOW-

 

- Plugged up heater core

 

- Car had blown head gaskets when i bought it and probably had a head gasket repair added to the system and held up until now and has failed

 

- Warped heads causing air to be drawn into cooling system and creating an air bubble

 

- I really just need to keep this motor alive until I can afford to get parts to freshen up and reseal another 2.2 with 134,000 miles on it, Car has 247,000 miles on it and unknown on motor, may have been replaced at one time

 

- Oil was burned and thin after heating up so bad, changed it today but no signs of water or chocolate milk color, as well as no steam exiting the tailpipe whatsoever, A combustion leak test still needs to be done ASAP to be sure

 

Thanks for any input once again, goodnight all

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maybe original cause was the cheap t-stat. i always buy oem ones from the dealer because i've heard to many bad things about the cheap ones. then after running your car hot it now has warped heads or bad head gaskets from overheating

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If you are getting combustion gasses pushing out hte coolant causing an air pocket, try a can of the liquid glass block sealr. this can proling an already blown hg if you definately are getting ombustion bubbles, but it is the only practical thing you can do short of repairing the head gaskets themselves.

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1996 Legacy L AWD 5 speed EJ22 247,000 miles on car, engine may have been replaced at one point.

 

Still overheating, bypassed heater core yesterday drove around without heat as it was around 60 degrees out, hooked up heater hoses later in the day raised car at an angle and bled system. drove on the freeway and to work today and around town this evening, overheated again, bypassed heater core an hour or so ago and has the same symptoms, overheating, steam rushing out of the bleeder screw and upper rad hose with a strange smell, not like exhaust or pure antifreeze but still sweet like coolant with a rancid burnt smell possibly the hose being so hot. fluid in radiator cold but pressurized, overflow bottle full but not bubbling, no steam out the exhaust of water in the oil.

 

- Radiator new installed last friday with new cap

- Thermostat is a Subaru OEM dealer part also new

- Flushed system on friday, no apparent gunk in the system ran clear and clean

- Possible warped heads from all the overheating allowing air to enter system?

- Possibilities lead me to a massive clog in the system? maybe the large water pipe running across the motor or the small coolant hoses from the IAC motor and into the throttle body, no apparent water/steam in intake, behind T/B plate

- Added a cheap radiator stop leak when i had the old radiator in around 2 months ago, but again flushed system on friday so it should be clean

 

Will do a block test tomorrow to check for combustion leaks

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After overheating so many times, it's for sure your headgaskets are blown now and the heads are warped. Don't even bother with block test for combustion gases. It's a waste of time.

 

If the radiator is cold, then it's not getting warm coolant circulated through it. Therefore, the coolant in the engine is not circulating to where it gets cooled. You have a blockage somewhere, and it's likely the "cheap radiator stop leak" has something to do with it. Subarus don't like that kind of stuff in their systems.

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Did the block test, came back negative no sign of combustion gasses but a 4 gas will tell for sure. disconnected small coolant hoses from IAC motor to throttle body and intake to inspect, worn out but not clogged up, hooked up heater hoses to core again raised car at an angle filled system bled it and ran it in the shop and made it home with no problems, really dont wanna drive this thing being unreliable, gonna drive my 91 loyale instead, and dont wanna put much money into it as i have a 2.2 on the floor, heads ready to go to the machine shop and the intake, timing components off, just need to save up to get parts, rockauto.com has a master overhaul kit including pistons, rings, bearings, complete gasket set for $417, I know that a 2.5 block with 2.2 heads is a good combo, what about a 2.2 block and SOHC 2.5 heads to keep timing components simple and use 2.2 HG's? just an idea instead of building and dropping another bone stock 2.2 again.

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2.5 heads have larger combustion chambers, that translates into lower compression and less power. Might work out good for a turbo setup but no point for a n/a engine. 2.5 block with 2.2 heads , or 2.2 block with 2.2 heads are they only two ways it works. If you need a little extra oomph out of the 2.2, look into a set of Delta Cams.

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Agree with others that you prolly have a blown head gasket. If memory serves me a 96 Leggie w/ 5 speed would have the 2.2 motor. They are far less likely to blow a head gasket then the 2.5, but it does happen. I had a 91 Leggie 2.2 that blew a head gasket.

 

Any kind of stop leak or head gasket repair out of a bottle won't work on a Subie. The head gasket blows so that exhaust gas bleeds into the cooling system to cause the over heating. It is never a problem of coolant and oil ever mixing to show up as foamy brown milkshake on the oil dip stick.

 

Repeated engine over heating is really hard on the motor. You could replace the HGs, but no guarantees on how long the motor will last.

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Agree with others that you prolly have a blown head gasket. If memory serves me a 96 Leggie w/ 5 speed would have the 2.2 motor. They are far less likely to blow a head gasket then the 2.5, but it does happen. I had a 91 Leggie 2.2 that blew a head gasket.

 

Any kind of stop leak or head gasket repair out of a bottle won't work on a Subie. The head gasket blows so that exhaust gas bleeds into the cooling system to cause the over heating. It is never a problem of coolant and oil ever mixing to show up as foamy brown milkshake on the oil dip stick.

 

Repeated engine over heating is really hard on the motor. You could replace the HGs, but no guarantees on how long the motor will last.

 

I had some milkiness on dipstick and oilcap on my 2.2 and no bubbles... Guess there is an exception to every rule though... and I had 344k miles

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