nwtech

Yeah thats what im worried about, that its parts now. I had a 2.2 from the junkyard in it with 135,000 on it, I just resealed it and did the heads, t-belt. water pump, intake, clutch this summer, it was strong, i put alot of work into the stereo and it cost alot over the past couple years, hell they can take the stereo, blow my motor and my tires, i have more, and another 2.2 core i can build, i would be satisfied at this point to have it trashed broke down in my yard just as long as i got it back, its been a week now. luckily my 91 Loyale is still sitting on the street, i got a long weekend, so ill do a rear end and the hubs on it to be mobile again, My mom got me new headlight lenses for the Legacy for christmas but sent em back and used the money to get the junkyard parts for the Loyale, It really came at the worst time, I'm a mechanic 6 years in the trade I get burnt out about my investment in the work and my tool expenses sometimes and with a baby boy due in April, just a setback i really didn't need. sigh....

My 1996 legacy was stolen from my driveway in east Spokane the night of Friday the 21st, possibly with a shaved key, no broken glass in driveway. It is a dark green sedan, AWD, 5 speed, with stock spoiler, non-tinted windows, sunroof, bug guard on front, dings and scratches on sides, body filler on left rear quarter panel, blown rear struts sits fairly low in rear, tiny pinhole in right rear taillight, on 1st generation legacy 14" stock mag wheels with studded tires, has a purple hornie glasspack muffler, and a black Snap-On license plate frame on back, license number Washington AGL9429, current 2012 tabs with month tabs November (11), inside was a few tools, jumper cables, personal items, Cd's, lug wrench, Sony Xplod detachable face deck about a year old, with aux and usb in, serial numbers reported to police, a 15" Kicker L7 solo baric subwoofer in ported box in trunk, a rockford fosgate BD1000 amp, a silver pioneer amp, specs unknown, power cables, RCA cables speaker wires, I guess thats about it on my car, if seen call 911 and me at 509-218-1484 my name is Andrew, thank you The wheels in the picture are my summer ones, its on 14" stock mags with studs now

always install flush, going in too far allows oil feed passages in the block to become exposed and just dump oil. although re doing it i got the tranny out in 30 minutes but had spen time cleaning all the dry threadlock off the clutch/flywheel bolts i just put on the day before ugh

yeah theres a huge difference between my 96 legacy 2.2 and my 91 loyale 1.8 both 5 speeds, the loyale i beat the hell out of, 7 hour road trips, mountian roads dirt, snow, mud, push button 4x4 184,000 miles on it I put 50,000 miles on it in 2 years, its a beast but its taking a much needed rest now as im driving my legacy with 252,000 on the odomoter and building a fresh 2.2 for it, also good tip WoodsWagon- One other thing to check for is the plastic rectangle that says SPFI that fits into the top of the rubber intake tube that goes from the airbox to the throttle body. If that is missing the rubber tube can collapse at higher engine rpms and choke the engine's power. mine is actually missing, I never thought of that being a stiffener of some sort

thanks, thats what I thought, they didnt seem to be stretch/ torque to yield bolts just by looking at them and the threads look fine

Finally starting my EJ22 build and ready to get started on re-gasketing the motor as well as new W/P and timing components, Ive heard that head bolt replacement is required while others say theyre not stretch bolts and is not required, any info, its about $100 for a set for both heads on rockauto

Yeah cams would be a good idea, probably just gonna start with a lightened crank pulley, intake, maybe build some headers, theres just not alot of performance items for the 2.2 avaliable, thanks for the advice

Did the block test, came back negative no sign of combustion gasses but a 4 gas will tell for sure. disconnected small coolant hoses from IAC motor to throttle body and intake to inspect, worn out but not clogged up, hooked up heater hoses to core again raised car at an angle filled system bled it and ran it in the shop and made it home with no problems, really dont wanna drive this thing being unreliable, gonna drive my 91 loyale instead, and dont wanna put much money into it as i have a 2.2 on the floor, heads ready to go to the machine shop and the intake, timing components off, just need to save up to get parts, rockauto.com has a master overhaul kit including pistons, rings, bearings, complete gasket set for $417, I know that a 2.5 block with 2.2 heads is a good combo, what about a 2.2 block and SOHC 2.5 heads to keep timing components simple and use 2.2 HG's? just an idea instead of building and dropping another bone stock 2.2 again.

1996 Legacy L AWD 5 speed EJ22 247,000 miles on car, engine may have been replaced at one point. Still overheating, bypassed heater core yesterday drove around without heat as it was around 60 degrees out, hooked up heater hoses later in the day raised car at an angle and bled system. drove on the freeway and to work today and around town this evening, overheated again, bypassed heater core an hour or so ago and has the same symptoms, overheating, steam rushing out of the bleeder screw and upper rad hose with a strange smell, not like exhaust or pure antifreeze but still sweet like coolant with a rancid burnt smell possibly the hose being so hot. fluid in radiator cold but pressurized, overflow bottle full but not bubbling, no steam out the exhaust of water in the oil. - Radiator new installed last friday with new cap - Thermostat is a Subaru OEM dealer part also new - Flushed system on friday, no apparent gunk in the system ran clear and clean - Possible warped heads from all the overheating allowing air to enter system? - Possibilities lead me to a massive clog in the system? maybe the large water pipe running across the motor or the small coolant hoses from the IAC motor and into the throttle body, no apparent water/steam in intake, behind T/B plate - Added a cheap radiator stop leak when i had the old radiator in around 2 months ago, but again flushed system on friday so it should be clean Will do a block test tomorrow to check for combustion leaks

UBDATE- checked for water pump flow today and pissed out like a garden hose out the heater hose outlet, w/p spinning, not seized up, checked for a restriction in the heater core, blew air through both sides. filled up, bled system, let fans cycle drove it all evening and around 11 tonight the heat cut out and the gauge pegged immediatly overflow bottle full rad pressurized but cold coolant. turned around got in my 91 loyale and will continue tomorrow. POSSIBILITIES AS OF NOW- - Plugged up heater core - Car had blown head gaskets when i bought it and probably had a head gasket repair added to the system and held up until now and has failed - Warped heads causing air to be drawn into cooling system and creating an air bubble - I really just need to keep this motor alive until I can afford to get parts to freshen up and reseal another 2.2 with 134,000 miles on it, Car has 247,000 miles on it and unknown on motor, may have been replaced at one time - Oil was burned and thin after heating up so bad, changed it today but no signs of water or chocolate milk color, as well as no steam exiting the tailpipe whatsoever, A combustion leak test still needs to be done ASAP to be sure Thanks for any input once again, goodnight all

hello everybody, I have an ongoing overheating issue with no sign of milky oil HG symptoms but still need to check for combustion gasses. originally started happening after replacing the thermostat with a non OEM part, heater blows cold, temp gauge goes all the way hot, radiator cold to the touch, overflow bottle full, replaced with another non OEM stat and overheated after 24 hours of normal temp, drove it hot to the dealer, replaced it with a genuine subaru thermostat, ran at normal operating temp for a week then the same symptoms came back, replaced radiator and flushed cooling system today, using a flush tee, ran cool for a few hours including 30mins on the freeway at 70mph then overheated again. drove it after an hour or so and was fine for another freeway run, temp gauge raised up then immediately came back to normal, eventually got home from the store and got hot pulling onto my street. - Bled radiator from vent plug during initial fill - lots of steam coming from the vent plug if opened when hot coming from upper rad hose, coolant in radiator cool anyways time for bed any input would be appreciated thanks

Have a few 97 Legacy Outback 2.5 AT used parts i got for free wondering if anyone knew if they could be used on my 96 Legacy Sedan 2.2 SOHC MT if needed, most importantly the IAC Valve, as it is a good unit and part stores charge ungodly amounts for them, as well as the Separator Plate/Oil Baffle (Metal) from the 2.5 to replace the plastic one on my 2.2. Also would certain really expensive emission related parts work from a 2.5 to 2.2, including MAF, EGR valve, TPS sensor, Fuel Pressure Regulator. Thanks

had the same issue power at the fuse/relays, I blew the illumination module, under the kick panel by your feet, bypass the module by jumping the black wire to the yellow/red wire? correct me if im wrong here, and see if the lights work, if so there is no dimming of the dash lights just on bright, go to a junkyard and get one there instead of a new one as they can be pricey

I failed for HC as well a few months back here in washington state, all i did was fill the tank, added a can of seafoam changed the air filter, turned my idle to just below the wa state maximum of 1100 rpm and drove it hard at 70-80 mph for about 20 minutes, passed with flying colors

saw this before on a 5.4 ford engine swap, the wrecking yard who shipped us the engine on top of breaking the coolant outlet housing as well as cut every wiring harness, supposedly left the engine out in the rain, never filled the plug/intake, any open hole on the motor with plastic caps, there was water, little rocks and an injector o-ring stuck down in the spark plug tube so a socket wouldn't fit and hard to get pliers in there, ended up using a long pick and hook as well to get it out

ran into this on a 97 outback wagon, mistakenly pulled the MLPS nut instead of pulling the clip where the shift linkage attaches to the MLPS when removing the transmission, to get the switch to contact at the right point in order to shift out of park and for the brake switch to engage, you need to align the hole in the MLPS as well as the switch contact, with a small punch inserted in the hole, adjust the nuts on the shift cable to where the linkage meets the transmission, insert clip, remove punch and torque all bolts unfastened. assuming the park switch and neutral safety switch are in working order

Having some issues, more of an annoyance than a major problem, but sometimes when under light to medium load the engine will seem to cough and sputter, then continue driving normal, it seems to be doing it more now that its colder outside but does happen when the engine is fully warmed up, the only thing I have done recently in that department is I turned the idle down a bit to pass emissions, Im going to turn it back to normal now that its hard to keep running when cold, but other than that maintenence is normal, oil changes every month, seafoam in the oil, fuel, and intake once in a while. again not the biggest problem but some input would be appreciated

my 91 loyale wagon has the same issue, pinging under load, lifters tick once in a while, ive had the car 2 years this month and put almost 50,000 miles on it, lately when on the freeway going 70 the temp gauge creeps up almost to the hot mark, this is during the day with temperatures hovering around 90 outside, it runs great when its cool out, I think i need to unclog my cooling system as well, just havent gotten around to it, working on POS mopar crap all day makes you not wanna do anything after work lol

got the same thing on my 91 loyale, 167,000 miles, tap the gas to make it do down, probably should spray out the iac and see how it goes

my 91 loyale has a hard time disengaging 4WD, light stays on the dash after pressing the button and sometimes jerks real hard, basically kicks itself out of 4WD forcefully

i had the misfortune of having the same thing happen 2 weeks ago in my 91 loyale, and it was -10 outside, couldnt see a thing, windshield was icing up, took off the inst cluster trim and found a wire grounding itself when jiggled from the switch going into a circuit board, need to replace it, still have it loose if i need to jiggle it while driving lol, check behind there and start wiggling wires goin to the blower switch

pssshh seattle pretty much shuts down if it snows more than 2" no offense, we got about 18" in a week or so over here in spokane, my 91 loyale is tearin it up, drifting around parking lots harder than a jeep wrangler, ford explorer and an f150, although the fwd toyota corolla there at the same time was doin pretty good. word to the wise, it warmed up a bit, slush is different than snow, you will hit ************, like a fence in my case lol

Rockauto.com shows 3 different types of bearings for the rear, a tapered one similar to mine, a ball bearing type as well as a longer sealed one that NAPA gave me in the first place. none of the other techs i work with remember the last time they did one of these, so im goin to the subaru specialist shop tomorrow and askin them advice. Im glad i drive an Japanese car, I had a damn 90 jaguar XJ today at work for calipers, pads, rotors, and a tune up. early ABS unit was a pain to bleed.

that happend to me on the right front, stripped the splines out of the hub, due to a loose axle nut, just got one at the junkyard for 5 bucks and cleaned the splines on the axle, replaced the hub and put loctite on the axle nut.

i blew my black one a awhile back, paid 10 bucks for one at the subaru dealer, now everytime i go to the junkyard i pocket about 5 cars worth of these links, and other fuses, never need to pay for them again, light bulbs too