The Woodruff Key bent on the crank nose...will not allow removal of the crankshaft sprocket. Too tight for puller jaws to pull the sprocket without damage...can I tap the holes on the sprocket, and use bolt puller?...any ideas?

Trying to limit the damage here, so help is appreciated.

Yes, those holes are made to accept a tap. M8x1.25 works perfectly.

Thanks Shawn...btw...can I use those holes to put threaded stock in to fit corresponding holes drilled into the pulley to help hold the alighnment upon reinstall? ever been done before?...any problems weightwise?

You night be able to pry the key out with some vice grips. Just make sure the crank bolts is good and tight when you reinstall the pulley and you won't have problems.

Maybe...but I still need to get the new one reinstalled...and I want to inspect the shaft-nose...maybe clean it up. Want this to be a solid fix...I will torque it to 130 when I'm done....just need to get it off 1st. What I really need to know next, is if there is a good fix to align the keyway , shaft, sprocket & pulley?...I was thinking of drilling 2 holes in the pulley to correspond w/ 2 threaded studs drill pressed into the pulley aligned w/ the Woody key, and lock it all together.

does the sprocket have to come off? leave it there?

 

i've cleaned up crank noses and reinstalled a new crank pulley countless times. the crank pulley does *not* "need" a wooddruff key to stay in place. 3 foot pipe over the socket wrench and it's not going anywhere. most people simply don't install them tight enough or the engine isn't properly held in place so you're actually getting full torque onto the bolt.

 

i've installed a bunch without a key because they're old, not worth a debacle of a repair and given the vehicle/person who owned it, it didn't matter...or some other reason. works %100 of the tim with enough torque.

 

that being said - you should be able to grind/drill out the key as well. and actually once you get past the initial few millimeters of damage the sprocket may/should slide off and give you enough material to install a new key maybe?

 

air grinder or dremel tool to cut the sprockets off and then deal with the keyway?

Props Gary...still pondering cutting the bent part of the key out of the way. But, you said you've torqued em down b 4 w/o a W key?.....I can still fit the pulley on the crank nose with the old key still in.....what is the max ft. lbs it will take?...ideas?

The accesory pulley (harmonic balancer) doesn't need a key at all. Torque it down and call it good. 120 ft/lbs or so will hold it on there nicely.

 

Cut the bad section of the key away - you do not want to drag the sprocket across the messed up key. Then pull off the sprocket - and order a new key from the dealer.

 

GD

Props Gary...still pondering cutting the bent part of the key out of the way. But, you said you've torqued em down b 4 w/o a W key?.....I can still fit the pulley on the crank nose with the old key still in.....what is the max ft. lbs it will take?...ideas?

Yes, you're on the right path now.

 

1. just cut/grind/drill the bent part out of the way - the first few millimeters probably. then it'll all come off.

 

2. or just leave it in place and make it flush so the crank pulley bolts back in place properly. tighten it really good and it's not going anywhere. i've done it countless times - i never use a torque wrench - i just get a socket on there and y 3 foot pipe and give it some good stank, so whatever that works out too!

 

sounds to me you need to skip all the other talk and just tighten it down as i've suggested - sounds like i'd have it "fixed" in about 4 minutes.