rdp2n Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_42/automatic_transmission/at_torque_converter_and_converter_case/illustration_3/ Question 1: The tranny (100K old) is sitting next to the car (173K car). Should I replace that main seal (#1 in link above) as a matter of course on the tranny before I install it into the car? My current view is that I'm inclined to. It looks OK -- but if it's a simple job, why not? Question 2: In order to seat the torque converter I removed the pump shaft (#5 in link above) and ensured that it was connected to the TC drum shaft via the circlip (#4 in link above). Trouble was, when I removed the pump shaft, the thin seal on the end fell off -- it was split. Should it be split or is it damaged? I'd like to order a replacement but can't locate the part number. If I'm making sense to anyone out there and they can advise, please go ahead -- Thanks, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 they don't leak often but a good idea to replace. clean well, install properly. that is called a "Ring Seal" and it's supposed to be split like you describe. i've seen them twisted and out of shape before and then they need replaced. it's a very hard graphite type material right, not like and oring? then yes - that's the Ring Seal. i've ordered them from Subaru before but generally I've only ever seen one or two in bad shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 just looked at your link - yes on that larger diameter tube that's going to be the ring seal i mentioned above and it's supposed to be split. sounds like you could just reuse it or get it from the dealer - again they call it a Ring Seal, that should help them identify it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 this thread has a slightly better exploded diagram actually showing the ring: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80574 click on the link in that thread for the PDF Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Thanks, grossgary Very helpful -- Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
987687 Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Mine leaks. I wish I replaced it when the engine was out of the car. You have it all apart now, replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 Thanks for the input. Now I need some precise part number information, please. I have called 2 Subaru dealerships and they can't figure out the part number for the SPLIT Ring Seal (graphite-like material) that goes on the end of the oil pump shaft (that goes inside the trans) -- as pointed out by grossgary, it's #10 in the diagram in this archived thread : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=80574 This little blighter has been mentioned multiple times on this forum -- BUT WHAT's the PART NUMBER? I just spent an excruciating half an hour on the phone with (infamous) Browns Subaru -- they guy thought he id'd it -- than tried to charge me $79-34. Er ... No Thanks, Mr. Brown. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Make shure the small oring on input shaft is good very commen to be overlooked and very important and stake the front seal in check the front pump bushing while your there likes to walk out of its bore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 5, 2012 Share Posted April 5, 2012 Dont waste your time at dealer go to the bigest trans shop u can find and ask them to let you pick trough there oring and seal pile one trans gasket set has alot of the same orings dealer gos on the trans are not repairabble policy useless i have five or six of theese tranny kits here if you stuck to find it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted April 5, 2012 Author Share Posted April 5, 2012 I can't imagine tranny shops in this area having time to help someone for next to nothing. Can't blame them, either. So consider me stuck. I'd be delighted to order from you -- I need at least: 1 -- Rear seal (806735210) 2 -- Front Main Seal (31361AA000) 3 --Circlip (805343020) (mine looks a bit bent) 4 --SPLIT Ring Seal (graphite-like material) that goes on the end of the oil pump shaft (that goes inside the trans) -- as pointed out by grossgary, it's #10 in the diagram in this archived thread : http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/...ad.php?t=80574 I carefully removed and replaced the input shaft. I thought the seals on that looked good -- but what do I know? And I haven't seen anything that looks like a bushing (?). If you think I should replace any other seals as a matter of course, please let me know. I'm grateful for experienced advice -- Thanks, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 6, 2012 Share Posted April 6, 2012 The bushing is behind the front pump seal i will go and c if i can put it together for you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted April 16, 2012 Author Share Posted April 16, 2012 Just to complete this thread -- yesterday I replaced main and rear seals on the trans, and the circlip and the seal ring on the shaft that slots into the torque converter. All 4 items ordered from World Impex. My son & I installed the trans today. Our "experience" / "expertise" (never having done this before) is as follows. To give ourselves room to maneuver, we unhooked / removed the cable sockets and breather hoses from the top of the trans (and the dipstick tube, too). We set it on a 1/2 inch board (to try to keep it level) on a $90 trans jack from Harbor Freight. Got it under the car (which is on jackstands set as high as we dared) and jacked it up into the trans well always making sure it did not become wedged at any point. The trans front (bell housing) must be tilted/tipped upwards for installation. In order to get the bell housing up to rest on the subframe (our "stage 2"), we found it helpful to apply a floor jack (with 2x4 shim) to the front differential on the trans. (So to achieve the required tilting we employed 2 jacks with the trans sitting sufficiently far forward on the trans jack to allow access to the front differential by the floor jack). Then, in this tilted orientation we jiggled the trans forward onto the subframe lip, then further onto the subframe proper (our "stage 3"). At each stage the trans jack was raised slightly at the rear, being careful to ensure the trans did not become wedged as was free to jiggle slightly. The most challenging bit was getting the 2 protruding bolts docked into the bolt holes on each lower bell housing. For this, we found that the board between the trans jack and the trans helped to keep the thing level from side to side as we jacked it up gradually at front, then at rear, then at front, then at rear. One further bit of "experience". It's a good idea to examine carefully the engine and trans mating edges before starting. We didn't do this and found metal dowels opposite each other protruding on both engine and trans. We had to lower the trans to drive these out of the trans. The job was quite tricky and took several tries and 2 weekends to get done. Thanks for all the excellent advice and help from this forum, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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