how do you know when to get a new clutch? shifting into second is rough if i dont let the rpms drop, so do i replace the clutch or just adjust linkage?

Well adjust the clutch cable first then see what happens. It may be too tight or too loose.

 

If the clutch is bad the car wont move.or very well anyways. Rarely does it affect shifting.

Edited April 14, 201213 yr by AKghandi

What you meant to say was shifting into a specific gear is not usually the clutch. In this case, most likely not. The second gear syncro or blocking ring is probably going bad. The syncro meshes the gears together, and the blocking ring slows down the internal shafts to allow the syncro to mesh the gears.

Edited April 14, 201213 yr by skishop69

I don't know what kind of car you have. But shifting into 2nd on my GL you have to take it easy. It's an old tranny with a lot of miles on it, be gentle.

Mine is a lot better once it's been driven for a few miles and the oil has circulated/warmed up.

 

The transmission I replaced was so shot you had to double clutch 2nd gear up an down because it would just grind if you didn't. That box was a total pile by the time I got rid of it.

ya i have an ea82 85 gl station wagon. and when i shift from first to second @ about 3000 - 32,3500 rpms if i dont let them drop to about 2500 it doesnt grind, but it makes like a vibration/grinding feel, but no grinding noise. so you guys dont possibly think that it could be that the clutch is not completely disengaging .

I dunno if this is the right way, but this is how I check if a clutch isn't disengaging. Since reverse isn't synchronized, it'll grind if everything isn't stopped.

So I stop the car, push in the clutch, and shift to first gear. This will make sure nothing in the tranny is spinning. Then, while keeping my foot to the floor on the clutch very very slowly shift it into reverse. If you get a grinding, that means the tranny is spinning, meaning the clutch is sticking a little bit.

 

If that's the case, you might need to adjust the cable.

 

Where in the throw of the pedal does the clutch bite? Is it right as soon as you let the pedal off the floor, more toward the middle, or at the end of the throw?

 

There should be about 1/4" of play at the clutch fork.

Nope, that's definitely internal just like 987687's issue. Clutch issues are not gear specific.

there is probably about 1/4 to 1/2 inch of play before any resistance is felt on the pedal. from fully compressed as i let the pedal out it grabs at the begening of the end of the through.

Sounds like if anything your clutch is a bit worn. But the 2nd gear thing is in the tranny. You might get some extra life by changing the oil. It's a 27 year old car, it's getting worn out. And it was never a race car to start with, just shift it carefully.

ok ill just be gental with second. im not going to change the oil though cause i all ways keep it toped off and i fully replaced it when i bought the car 3 years ago. and its castrol full sythentic 75/90wt or 80/90wt. i cant remember i know i picked the best wt for cold weather cause i live in montucket.

Ya, probably not worth changing it then.

As long as it doesn't sound like using an egg beater in a pot of rocks (bad bearings), the tranny is gonna be fine.

since we are on the topic of tranny's, do you guys ever have the problem when your driving and the gear shifter rattles like a rattle snakes rattler? it buzzes and makes you want to shoot your passenger or something crazy!

 

it stops making the noise if i hold it or if i push it back when im in 2nd or 4th gear

Drain old transmission oil.

 

Refill with Valvoline Synpower TDL 75W-90.

 

Drive 60-100 miles.

 

Enjoy smooth shifting