wilcox

ya i have a digital volt meter, after i went and drove it abit the charging voltage dropped to about 14. the battery was just low from the key being on a lot so it pulled that much more from the alternator

THANKS TO ALL OF YOU GUYS!!! i very much so appreciate the value of your knowledge and your willingness to help. thank you!!

and i just invested in an air compressor, so more potential

yeah, i was supposed to post a bunch of pics about all the ************ i did to my car, but never had time. im stoked about how my gauge lights up the rest of my dash lights.

i figured out what it was, it was a wire that feeds a fusible link, at the bottom it was freyed out, so i soldered it. and they work like new! i hate electrical such i pain in the butt, i spent like 6+ hours looking for the problem. while i was at it and had the dash apart i wired my oil pressure guage light into the factory switch

im thinking its a piece of corrode wire cause i went through a big as puddle ( 12" deep ) and i know the head lights and stuff worked before that. i checked there is power at the switch, and at the fusible links and at the relays, and my ignition switch works. so im thinking it is a piece of wire that is corroded or a bad ground some where.

yeah, all my fuses are good, and my fuse able links work well. yes, the car starts, and radio turns on. i tested with a test light and i have power at the witch so i know that it has already ran through a fuse. no power at the bulb connection though

ya all i have is running lights and brake lights, no blinkers, hazards, healights, or dash lights.

when running im at 15.4 V but it is a brand new alternator, replaced it this year. even in the higher rpm range it does not go above 15.45 v. i tested all the relays with aligator clips and a test light, all of the 4 are good. fuses are good. any other hints?!!! im lost

ok, so witch one, and what do they look like, and how do i test them?

i wen to go drive home at about 10 ish after a concert and my head lights would'nt turn on. nothing on the dash iehter, the only thing that works are my running lights. its an 85' gl wagon, and im baffled. checked fuses, got a new head light switch and poked around with a multi meter and they still dont work. so i need help! thanks, wilcox

how do you get new springs? and they make kyb subaru rear struts, so why would you use toyota ones?

you dont just re-use the old springs? i didnt know you can buy new ones, i re -used my old ones for both front and back struts

i got my weber installed and such, after rebuilding it. i have my idle speed set at about 900-950rpm when at full operating temperature. i want to know how you guys have your idle mixture screws set. thanks

na the back spacing is too crazy, they will work, but they will stick way out. also check the bolt pattern your looking for 6x5.5 other wise the wheel wont fit your 6 lug converted hubs

why is the fuel return line from the float bowl to the tank smaller than the fuel in line?

i just modified the hitatchi linkage, ill post pics when im all done

wow! that gl wagon looks awesome! good job! in that first pic i really like that wrx, and the evo too!

i also had throttle cable length problems

no, that write up only answere some of them ( ive read it like 9 times ) and the search bar makes it difficult to find what i need to know, but ill try.

also what is the best way to seal that coolant passage on the intake?

will the gasket seal off that coolant passage on my intake? what is the best way to seal off that coolant passage when doing a carb swap? thanks

thanks

on the fuel side of the hitachi carb are two hoses, one is fuel and the other im not sure, they both run through the fire wall by the brake booster. what is the other hose? thanks

ok so on the fuel side of the craptachi carb are two hoses, one is fuel and what is the other, they are right next to each other.