Hey guys.

 

Decided to replace the axles in my 99 wagon to fix that damn idle shake. That went fine but in the process my ball joints were damaged from the pickle fork. Kinda figured that would happen.

 

So I go to replace the ball joints and you guessed it. Pinch bolt head snapped off. Yay rust!

 

So after a valiant fight trying to drill that thing out, I gave up and got two used knuckles from the junkyard. I removed the old balljoints out of those (air hammer FTW) and am now trying to install the new ball joints.

 

Problem is, I can't get them to go all the way in. I ruined one already by wailing on it so hard it mushroomed the stem and the castle nut would not thread in. What am I don't wrong? I'm spreading the pinch area with a chisel as far as I dare go before I feel like i'm going to crack the metal. These things are not just falling in like I have seen in some threads. I cleaned the pocket out with my dremel, not rust in there at all. There are no burrs or anything else to hang up on. I have them coated with wheel bearing grease as well to aid in installation.

 

What am I doing wrong!!! Help!!

Maybe they are the incorrect Ball Joints? The Joint body being to long and not seating all the way.

 

And there is nothing stopping it on the knuckle side eh? Thats puzzling.

 

Although, the original ball joint bolts can be drilled out with now to much effort given you have a decent bit. I've already seen that approach in person, drill it all the way through and replace with stainless Bolt and Nut.

 

Anyway, I don't know why your BJs are not seating all the way in.

I don't think it would make any difference but I have the knuckles off the car right now.

did you google the ball joint part numbers to make sure it's right?

the pinch bolts are out of the "new" knuckles?

you are right to tread cautiously spreading them, they can crack.

 

note - there's no need for the ball joint removal method to replace axles on a subaru. hardly need to mention it since you're living it right now but that's the hard way. only need to remove the top strut mount bolt and loosen the lower one. remove that *one* bolt and you can replace the axle, it's very easy. those bolts never are stuck, frozen, or rusted. you have to mark the head orientation so that you can retain your alignment, but that takes about 7 seconds.

 

is the ball joint removal method common on other vehicles or something? i can't picture why anyone would do it that way...maybe if you don't ever have rust/corrosion issues, but even then you can't get any easier than one bolt that is never seized even in the rust belt.

I do the ball joint method in my shop. It doesn't affect the alignment and our cars aren't usually real rusted here. If the side one doesn't come out the castle nut usually will. I share shop space with MWE so I do a lot of axles-average about 6-10 minutes with paperwork.

 

Theres no reason to own a pickle fork for Subaru work though. A large prybar works great.

Double check the part number of the new ball joint. Also, you do have the pinch bolt entirely removed? It won't go anywhere with the bolt still in the knuckle. That's why it has the "valley" in the side of the ball joint case.

 

 

 

Lift and air tools! 6 minute axle change! Also helps if you have a press type ball joint separator.

 

Anyway. I've done it both ways. For the home mechanic doing it in the driveway without special tools the strut bolt is easier. But it is faster IMO if you can get the lower balljoint undone without damaging it. You also have more room to work the axle around. It's a trick getting the drivers side axle in and out with the ball joint attached.

Edited April 20, 201213 yr by Fairtax4me

Lift and air tools! 6 minute axle change! Also helps if you have a press type ball joint separator.

and Shawn's nifty axle pin punch/roll pin holder combo tool.

did you google the ball joint part numbers to make sure it's right?

the pinch bolts are out of the "new" knuckles?

you are right to tread cautiously spreading them, they can crack.

 

note - there's no need for the ball joint removal method to replace axles on a subaru. hardly need to mention it since you're living it right now but that's the hard way. only need to remove the top strut mount bolt and loosen the lower one. remove that *one* bolt and you can replace the axle, it's very easy. those bolts never are stuck, frozen, or rusted. you have to mark the head orientation so that you can retain your alignment, but that takes about 7 seconds.

 

is the ball joint removal method common on other vehicles or something? i can't picture why anyone would do it that way...maybe if you don't ever have rust/corrosion issues, but even then you can't get any easier than one bolt that is never seized even in the rust belt.

 

 

Maybe it's rare, but I've had a car that's lived in Maine it's whole entire life. And I had a strut bolt that was so rusted stuck I actually twisted it in half in a valiant effort to get it out. It took lots of cheater bar action.... I don't want to know what my ball joints look like after that one.