mccullough Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 My dad and I went to replace the timing belt on my 2000 Subaru Outback (2.5l SOHC). When he removed the belt he did not align the crank/cam sprockets. I know the cam sprockets moved a little. What is the procedure to get everything back in alignment without destroying the valves or pistons? Can we simply put the belt back on and bring everything close to alignment once all the timing marks are pointed towards the top, or are we going to hurt the engine? The crank mark is almost pointing straight up, and the cam marks are down at different angles. HELP US Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 If the crank is in the correct position on a SOHC the cam's don't matter in that the valves won't hit the pistons. I'd think it's all a bit of a crapshoot. I'd get crank at TDC then start on the cams myself. I'd wait to see if anyone else has any idea's. I assume the engine is in the car? I'm thinking about whether an easy work around like sticking a measuring device in each spark plug hole or something to see where each piston is. If that would ba an aid at all. Then again it's the middle of the night and I can't sleep so I could easily not be thinking straight. Perhaps others will have good idea's. But I'd probably do the crank then cams and do a comression check when belt is back on. Or if you're doing a HG job removing the heads where the cams are now won't hurt anything. Or if you're thinking about doing HG's this should have put you over the edge - just do them (with OEM or course). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) it all depends on what is where. first you need to KNOW what the correct timing marks are for the crank and the cams. do not guess, '' that must be it''. using the wrong marks could cause damage. when the crank timing mark is up at 12 oclock OR down at 6 oclock, the pistons are out of the way and you can turn the SOHC any way you want. so look at the crank and turn it the shortest distance (forward or backward) to the 12 or 6 position. (this should be LESS than 90 degrees.) once the crank / pistons are out of the way you can position the cams correctly. one of the cams, drivers side i think, will be ''loaded'', under pressure, when in the correct position, and MAY want to snap closed. this is ok, as long as the pistons are clear. it only really needs to be correct when you install the belt and it can be positioned with out snapping closed if you are careful. once the cams are in the correct positions, rotate the driver side cam so it snaps closed to the at rest position. now, you can turn the crank any way you want with out worry. turn it to the 12 oclock position. now that the crank is in the correct position you can reposition the driver side cam to hang the belt. HTH Edited April 27, 2012 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Dot and dashes NOT arrows!!! It IS the drivers side that is under load. Using a clamp or clothes pins (as Nipper posted a photo one time) to hold the belt on the cam sprockets and cam makes it much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Below is a picture of the clips I used when I installed a new belt last month. It is a 2,2l, but you get the idea. The clips were 79 cents each at Harbor Freight, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 I use basically the same clips but a little larger and then I can also put one on the crank to hold the belt there. Mine are plastic but I still use an old chunk of timing belt on the bottom of the crank end splines so they don't get knicked.(dont know what to call that piece at the moment that turns the timing belt). These clamps help a lot. And IMO almost mandatory to keep your sanity when doing a DOHC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 (edited) i have edited the above to avoid possible mistakes. see below in red. one of the cams, drivers side i think, will be ''loaded'', under pressure, when in the correct position, and MAY want to snap closed. this is ok, as long as the pistons are clear. it only really needs to be correct when you install the belt and it can be positioned with out snapping closed if you are careful. once the cams are in the correct positions, rotate the driver side cam so it snaps closed to the at rest position. now, you can turn the crank any way you want with out worry. turn it to the 12 oclock position. now that the crank is in the correct position you can reposition the driver side cam to hang the belt. some of the driver side valves are open when the cam is in the correct position. IF you need to rotate the crank 180* to get to the correct timing position, you want ALL of the valves closed before you do it. Edited April 27, 2012 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 some info on this youtube video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.