I was driving it today and it was running fine until I stopped at a stoplight. It died on me there and wouldn't restart. However it did try to start once when I was cranking it but after that the motor just kept cranking. I replaced the Coil pack because I wasn't getting any spark out of the plug wires when cranking but still no spark after installing the new coil pack. Could it be the ignition control module? Or what is the easiest and cheapest thing to check next?

Just took the ignition control module out and had it checked. That is supposed to be the problem.

I would first make sure power is getting to the ignition system.

test your cam and crank sensors. you can do that with a multi meter but if your using a chiltons total car care manual that is not fun. i did this on a 90 once and they give you the correct voltages and ohms but they don't tell you the correct prongs to test. i have seen the correct procedure in the repair forum

the manual i had went from 85 to 96

Timing belt.

 

Pull the drivers side inspection cover to see for sure.

 

good news is 96 2.2 is non-interference......new belt, idlers, and water pump, you're good to go

Well it was supposed to be the Ignition control module because it was tested at the Subaru dealership then the numbers were taken to auto zone and it tested bad. But then I bought another one and it still didn't start. I guess I should get my own ohm meter. So I guess the next step would be to check the cam and crank sensors?

As already pointed out check the timing belt.

 

I'm electrically challanged so I check the belt forst. 3 10mm bolts on each "ear" of the timing belt cover ends. Look to make sure BOTH cam's line up.

 

Then I'd check the crank and cam sensor.

 

Any maintenance history (like timing belt)?

And how about a USEFUL location? Including a state maybe?

 

There is a Springdale near me and I can loan you whatever parts you may need to diagnose.

If you haven't yet checked to see if the timing belt is ok you should do that before doing anything else. If they are ok I suggest you get a meter so you make sure that power is getting to the ignition system. You should also get some sort of service manual if you don't have one already. The factory manuals are best and can be purchased on Ebay.

Edited June 14, 201213 yr by Cougar

It does sound like your timing belt, especially how it was running and then died at a stop light. Fortunately '96 2.2L was still non-interference so no damage if it broke.

 

You could also check for codes. I have had a crank angle sensor go flaky on me and it would make it sometimes not start at all or it would die at idle. (though it did set a code for it).

I pulled the timing belt inspection cover off. The belt is not broke but does not turn when cranking the engine? Any ideas

Could it have slipped. The marks on both cams are pointing the same direction but are not aligned with the notch at the top.

could have stripped the teeth off underneath. It should turn even if it slipped, time for a replacement belt.

Is there anything else that has to be replaced when replacing the belt

nothing that HAS to be replaced, but generally everyone on here will reccomend getting new idler pullies, and a water pump since you have to do a timing belt service to replace these wear items. Search ebay for timing belt kit, subaru, and you should find some for your 2.2

You could get a PCI timing kit, that has all the idlers and a belt. You could just risk it if funds are tight, since if any of that stuff fails it won't damage the engine but it will leave you stranded. Pulling the oil pump and resealing it (need o-ring and front crank seal) is a good idea because the screws on the back cover of the pump get loose on that era and it can end up pushing the crank seal right out if it's bad.

Yeah the oil pump o ring seal definitely needs changed. I appreciate it guys

Search. Often asked.

 

I happen to use theimportexperts.com kits - on Ebay they are often cheaper than if you call them.

 

Idler set, WP, cam seals, crank seal, WP gasket(rubber coated metal), oil pump Oring I get OEM. I do accessory belts and coolant too. Usually spark plugs and sometimes VC gaskets. Because other than baffle plate then it's all sealed up.

 

If it's like a 95-96 2.2 I get the 2 thin Orings at the dealer too for the ends of the cams.

 

Make sure you get the crank bolt TIGHT!!

It will be these ones, the 'cam cap o-rings'.

 

If it's an auto trans, just jam something like a pry bar in the flywheel hole to block the crank:

BUT! Keep everything else away from that hole! I dropped a bolt down in there once....fortunately I got it out with a long magnet/antenna thing. Maybe it would have just come out, but my luck it would have somehow snapped the crank or something.

Like everyone said, just get a whole kit, idlers, water pump, oil seals.

Nifty picture guide here:

http://beergarage.com/Subaru.aspx

you forgot to say get a kit MADE IN JAPAN!!!! if you just want to replace the belt at least inspect the bearings, take them off, hold the center and spin the outer portion if its noisy at all replace!

 

a friend had something similar happen one of his bearings had a jacket come apart inside if itself and it stripped several teeth off the belt at a stop light, LOL.

Yes the geared/toothed idler near the water pump is famous for doing that.

I have replaced the belt but still not starting. I followed all of the instructions in the manual for replacing the timing belt. Not sure what could have gone wrong. I even took the belt off and tried timing it multiple times but no luck

Edited August 2, 201213 yr by cbeasley

It sounds like the valve timing may be off even though you have checked things. You could do a compression check and that should tell you if things are ok, or not, with the timing. I assume you have tried starting the engine using starter fluid already and verified you have spark to the plugs. If that doesn't work then the valves are about all that is left.

The crankshaft sprocket usually gets people with the triangle or dot mark on the face. You have to use the dash mark on the back of the sprocket on the reluctor tooth.

The cam sprocket dashes can be hard to see but are on the forward face of the sprocket on the outer ring. All three marks should point straight up.