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Is there an axle washer that goes behind the axle nut? My Left front wheel was feeling loose and figured it was a bad wheel bearing. So last week I pulled the hub and took the knukle off the car, got new SKF bearing/seals and took them down to Wheeling Spring shop to have the old one pressed out and the new one put on. I put the knuckle back on the car and installed a new lower ball joint also last Saturday, I have driven the car about 75 miles. Tonight I noticed a clunk when turning at low speed. I check the axle nut that it was still tight and then noticed the

wheel bearing felt bad again. I ask about the washer, because the axle nut seems to go on past the notch in the axle that you cant lock it

on with a punch. The other thing going though my mind is the shop didnt change the old race and just put the new bearings on the hub......

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are you torquing with the weight of the car on the wheel?

 

Keep weight off that corner, put a big screwdriver in the rotor vanes, snug up against the caliper, then torque a NEW axle nut to - maybe 60 ftlbs, give the rotor a spin, secure the screwdriver again, torque to maybe 120 ftlbs or so, spin the rotor again, then final torque to final spec. Then stake the new nut into the slot. I put a thin layer of greas on the splines, but don't get any on the threads.

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I ask about the washer, because the axle nut seems to go on past the notch in the axle that you cant lock it.......

 

I've had this problem as well. Some brands of axle nuts are not as long as the others. But I don't think this would explain your main problem.

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  • 1 month later...

Yep, wrong axle, replaced with a used Subaru axle I picked up at a junkyard, all is fine....

 

 

 

 

 

hmmm....wrong axle?

 

 

Are there enough threads for a another nut? maybe use a second nut as a jam nut and stake it down. (I have NO IDEA how much torque you'd need on the second nut, I doubt you'd need the full 150 w'ever)

 

I don't think I understood the problem first time.

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