SubieTrav Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 I'm replacing the transmission in a 97 Legacy 2.5GT, 4EAT. I was told all 4EAT are the same for Legacy's from 96-98. I went to the junk yard and got a tranny from a 98 Outback. I've almost got the replacement tranny in and have noticed 2 things. The axle stub on the drivers side will pull out of the tranny, How do I get it to go all the way in and stay in. The input shaft that goes into the torque converter is about an inch longer in the replacement tranny. Is that going to fit. I'm starting to think this tranny won't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 (edited) the 98 outback auto trans is a match for the 97 GT that is not a problem. assuming the replacement trans is in fact from a 98 outback with the trans ID # TZ102Z2DBA. the stub axles are held in by circlips. and will snap into place with a sharp blow. if the circlip is missing nothing will hold it in. if it has a circlip and is not staying in place then it has not been completely seated. as for the ''input shaft'', i ASSUME you are talking about the shaft that attaches to the TC and extends into the trans. if this seems too long, then the TC is not fully seated. there is a great write up with pics on how to seat the torqueconverter. search for ''torqueconverter'' posted by me. i think the original title is ''how to seat your torque converter by mnwolftrack''. or something close to that. let me know if you can't find it. the shafts on the TC can be tricky. but it should go back together ok. i'm really surprised you even noticed the difference in the shaft. __________________ Edited September 17, 2012 by johnceggleston Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieTrav Posted September 18, 2012 Author Share Posted September 18, 2012 I see the problem I'm having with the torque converter, I didn't remove it from the engine. I haven't dealt with auto for many years, usually manuals. I read the article on how to seat a torque converter so hopefully tomorrow I will get this done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 very easy to break the pump stator when messing with converter make shure its in all the way and check the pattern on blot up to flex plate is same some are smaller bolt pattern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted September 19, 2012 Share Posted September 19, 2012 early 97 and 98 had a difference in the TQ and the input shafts. You need to match the TQ with the tranny. If you are installing the 98 trans you need the 98 TQ. Search around, theres a thread somewhere on here that shows a picture of the differences. IIRC you can swap out the center input shafts just make sure the output ends are the same (end that goes into the trans) All 2.5L use the same size flex plate. the difference in size is with the 2.2L. Even with the phase 2 trans, the flex plate off the 2.5L fits the phase 1 trans on a 2.5L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieTrav Posted September 19, 2012 Author Share Posted September 19, 2012 I discovered that yesterday. I finally decided to go back to the junk yard and get the torque converter from the same car I got the tranny. Yes there is a slight difference. I thought I was saving a couple $$ reusing the torque converter, oh well. lesson learned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieTrav Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Finally got the torque converter on the tranny and installed in the car. I read on another forum that some guys were pulling the shaft and sleeve out of the transmission and putting them in the torque converter, then sliding it back together with the tranny. I started to do that method and I realized the spring clip thing on the sleeve was half out and bent. So I just removed it and the torque converter went right in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieTrav Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 Well, I'm back to square one again. I got the tranny in and everything back together. Filled the front dif and put in most of the tranny fluid along with Trans X, I wanted to run the tranny through the gears to get the fluid up to level. Then to find out the battery was dead, it worked fine just before I disconnected it to r & r the tranny. Took the battery out of my other Legacy and started the car. The car is still up in the air with all 4 wheels off the ground and the FWD fuse is in. Lots of bad noises, sounded like some scraping, buzzing noises. I shut the car off for a minute and restarted it, little less noise but there was still noise coming from the tranny. while I had my foot on the brake I was shifting through the gears, while doing this I was looking at the from left rotor to see that it was moving. It moved fine in R and 1, 2, 3 but when I put it in D, the rotor would slow down and stop, it would start to move again when I stepped on the gas. When I shift out of P, there is a clunk. I checked the codes and got a P0102 and a P1507. I did remove one of the fans to put the 22 mm socket on the front of the motor to align the torque converter to the fly wheel. Since this was a junk yard tranny, I'm guessing either I inherited someone elses problem or I messed something up, could it be the oil pump in the tranny. I still have the original tranny (till I can find the receipt) can I swap out the oil pumps, If so, does the tranny need to come out of the car for this. Does it sound like I should even try to salvage this tranny and just get another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieTrav Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 Well, I'm back to square one again. I got the tranny in and everything back together. Filled the front dif and put in most of the tranny fluid along with Trans X, I wanted to run the tranny through the gears to get the fluid up to level. Then to find out the battery was dead, it worked fine just before I disconnected it to r & r the tranny. Took the battery out of my other Legacy and started the car. The car is still up in the air with all 4 wheels off the ground and the FWD fuse is in. Lots of bad noises, sounded like some scraping, buzzing noises. I shut the car off for a minute and restarted it, little less noise but there was still noise coming from the tranny. while I had my foot on the brake I was shifting through the gears, while doing this I was looking at the from left rotor to see that it was moving. It moved fine in R and 1, 2, 3 but when I put it in D, the rotor would slow down and stop, it would start to move again when I stepped on the gas. When I shift out of P, there is a clunk. I checked the codes and got a P0102 and a P1507. I did remove one of the fans to put the 22 mm socket on the front of the motor to align the torque converter to the fly wheel. Since this was a junk yard tranny, I'm guessing either I inherited someone elses problem or I messed something up, could it be the oil pump in the tranny. I still have the original tranny (till I can find the receipt) can I swap out the oil pumps, If so, does the tranny need to come out of the car for this. Does it sound like I should even try to salvage this tranny and just get another one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nfactr Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 I feel your pain and also may have inherited someone else's junk yard transmission problems in my swap. Sounds like we are in a similar spot. Off to research more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieTrav Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 I know junk yard transmissions are a crap shoot. I finally found the receipt and pulled this tranny back out of the car to take it back for exchange. It is suppose to rain today, but is sunny for now, I'm hoping the weather will hold off long enough to get a different trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted September 25, 2012 Share Posted September 25, 2012 take your trans and go through it takes me 25 min to pull it apart and diagnose it chances are you may have damaged the stator or not got the toruqe converter in all the way theese trans only fail in 3 ways broken planetary or broken band or the torington on the low reverse stator piles up and somtimes the forward clutch pack i rebiuld many of theese trans is not to hard takes me about 2 hours in total on bench. the pump is part of the cast member in center of trans and can be changed the last broken one the shaft thats atached to the cast member was cracked on the end were tq gos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 Did you check the fluid level after running it? Did you try to drive it? The front diff is open so any differences in drag on one axle or another can cause one hub or wheel to sit still, while the wheel on the other side may spin fine. That's not something I would worry about too much. Noises could just be a dry fluid pump, and subsequent cavitation or foaming going on as the pump tries to move fluid with air in it. The whole system holds something like 8-9 quarts of fluid, and if the TC was drained it takes a little running and constantly checking the fluid level to get it to the proper point. If you already have it out might as well get the exchange. Be sure to get the trans AND torque converter together so you don't have to fidget with lining up the splines and pump shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubieTrav Posted September 28, 2012 Author Share Posted September 28, 2012 No, I didn't check the fluid level after running it. I heard all that noise and just wasn't going to expect that tranny to work. I fulled it out of the car and returned it. I found another one with the torque converter and got that on. I got it installed yesterday. I swapped the oil pan with the original tranny. The junk yard tranny's are always dented. I thought that might be causing a problem with the pump getting fluid intake. Today I am letting the permatex ultra grey to cure before adding fluid. I'm still curious as to the original tranny only working in 1st and reverse. Since I didn't get charged a core on the last tranny, I'm going to crack it open and see if I can figure out what is wrong. i did find the service manual here http://tinyurl.com/8zr2752 It has only been 20 years since i rebuilt an auto tranny, who knows, I might just have something to take to the metal recyclers someday. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted September 29, 2012 Share Posted September 29, 2012 tip you do not have to pull valve body or pan to inspect the trans i bett the forward clutch pack or band you will see whats wrong when you pull it apart keep note of how many shims on pinion shaft and make shure same amount go back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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