Does anyone have any suggestions as to what I should pay special attention to or common problems with high mileage loyales?

 

The ad makes it appear to be (almost) rust free and says it has had regular maintenance. it's a 5 speed, 1.8 4 wheel drive wagon with ~250k on the clock.

 

I previously owned a 1st gen legacy wagon and absolutely loved it and am excited to get back behind the wheel of a subaru but just want to make sure to have my bases covered.

 

Thanks (my 1st post!)

listen for the TOD/air bubbles in oil (tick of death, but not really fatal...) It's a lifter tick, very sharp ticking noise.

 

Driveshaft excessive play or rumbling

 

Check the CV boots/shafts for wear or damage

 

Exhaust can get expensive at the front

 

clean/complete engine bay

 

Rust around strut rods and rear subframe mounts

^ very good list

 

Granted Aside from front exhaust and "The tick of death" (everything to check for is like any other car) which can be attributed to a bad "oil pump seal" which is fixable of course...but if you buy it i would change all timing belt stuff (pulleys, belts, etc) might as well do water pump too...

 

 

I would also warm it up and make sure the cruising oil pressure at 4,000 rpm is around 42 to 46 ibs.

thanks for the good responses, i checked it out and no tick of death and no rust on the body or frame other than the 2 passenger doors from a small sideswipe.

going to check it out again tomorrow to give it another once over.

 

it started up immediately (i know he hadn't started it before i got there because we went together from his work) and the idle stayed around 1700 until it was warm and then it dropped to around 800, the temp gauge went up only a tiny bit to slightly above the first tick mark, this sounds normal?

all good , but also check the underside where the carrier bearing bolts up. That area tends to hold water , rust , and then the prop. shaft will hobble around and thump/vibrate. Sounds like it won't be to that point yet , but do check.

If it has AC, does it blow cold?

Does the coolant overflow require adding coolant? If so, how much and how often.

Where the rust hides is the metal frame below the windshield. You won't be able to examine it unless you tear up the lower windshield trim and dig into the sealant.

If it has On Demand 4WD, does it make noise when it shifts out of 4WD?

What does the inside of the car smell like when you run the heater? Dead mouse perhaps?

Is the driver side seat cushion and/or seat cover shot, or is the seller concealing the damage with a seat cover?

Are little flakes of foam sitting on the rug below te driver seat, due to that seat foam breaking down?

Are the battery acid levels up to snuff?

How easy or hard does the hood release work?

How easy or hard does the clutch peddle work?

Do any spark plugs have abnormal levels of white residue on the electrode?

Is the synchro out in any of the gears?

What does a compression test reveal?

Does the engine leak oil from the cam tower covers?

Does the transmission leak oil?

Has the engine been worked on and for what reason?

Was the car stored outside or inside?

What is the condition of the tops of the interior side door panels?

Is it still the first engine?

What does the engine sound like when you lug the engine and try to climb a hill?

When driving on a smooth level road, do the front wheels pull one way or the other?

Does the radio sound scratchy when you adjust the volume?

Do the fan belts whine when you turn on the defrost or heater with the fan setting at high?

Edited October 18, 201213 yr by scoobiedubie
incomplete

ok, bought it for $825 let's hope this is the beginning of a good thing! I'll post pics if anyone is interested when i pick it up monday or tuesday.

NYC or OR ?

NYC, tomorrow i'm making a trip to Pittsburgh (for good for now) and it's been running super, the engine is super quiet (except the oil cap rattles) and idles at a nice steady 800 after warm-up. the cv boot is clicking on one side and the temp gauge never goes much above the 1st click (it goes up from start but only a bit) the synchro into 1st at any speed above 10 is a bit wanky;those are my only concerns after some time in the car.

There never was synchro into first. Because you are supposed to not run those stop signs. Better fix that CV joint before you make any trips out of town.

I successfully made the trip yesterday 34.6 mpg at 65mph the whole way.

The cv joint felt fine on the interstate but low speeds/around town is clicking a lot. I'm hoping to replace this on monday.

There never was synchro into first. Because you are supposed to not run those stop signs.

 

Not correct. 1st has a syncro just like any other gear. They often are the first to go but it does have one - I have rebuilt subaru transmissions and can get into 1st at 35 MPH no problem.

 

GD