rothell Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I Just bought a 90 loyale and noticed the distributor is fully advanced. This doesnt seem right to me. If you retard it any the car has no power. My guess is the distributor is a tooth or two off. Also when at full throttle it shifts just before 5k rpm. (AT) Any help would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 (edited) 1. Warm car to op temp. 2. Remove spare tire. 3. Remove flywheel inspection hole cover (small rubber boot with a pull tab) 4. Connect timing light (if adjustable, set to 0 (no advance)) 5. Connect green connectors by fuel filter. 6. Set timing to 20 BTDC 7. Double check idle speed (should be around 700) 8. Unplug green connectors 9. Go for drive Also, my 91 is near the end of its adjustment range as well. Looking down (from driver's fender) at the bolt closest to the coil, the bolt sits almost completely to the right of the slot. Edited October 22, 2012 by 86 Wonder Wedge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Engine/distributor designed for a carb - adjustment range reflects an original design set point of 8 degrees. With computerized fuel injection the computer expects the distributor to be at 20 which puts it toward the end of the same range. It doesn't "seem" right because you don't know what you are looking at. What made you think that adjusting something without a timing light and without knowledge on the subject was a good idea? It has no power because it's a 90 HP engine from the factory. It never had any. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothell Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Any idea why car shifts far below redline? Also if the distributor is already fully advanced and there is no pinging or spark knock how could one advance timing a few deg. and use higher octane fuel just in theroy im not wanting to pay for permium fuel. Thanks guys for the info. This engine is new to me last subie was a forester. I havent owned a car this old in quite sometime. Timing light conects to #1 which is passenger front ?? Right ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Yes. Cyl 1 is passenger front. 5000 is pretty typical on a 3AT under full load. I wouldn't do that real often-that trans isn't really meant for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothell Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Ok checked with light it was only off by one mark. It is now set at 20` BTDC thanks again for the help. Any ideas on the low rmp shift? Any help would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 Honestly, with that trans if you have all 3 gears reliably-be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothell Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Ok, thanks Shawn for the heads up. Just trying to work out all the bugs in this thing. It was owened by a subaru dealership machanic and for some reason its a real mess. I'm getting it figured out a little at a time. With the help of everyone here I should have it in top shape soon. Thanks again, Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothell Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Any suguestions on what trany next then. Im planing on putting some money into this car over time. I kayak and raft all over the country. So I'll end up needing more ground clearance etc. 5 speed with hi-lo would be great. Just dont know what it is (Model etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 5 spd high low is in an earlier version of your car. decent idea since its technically original equipment so everything will bolt on, problem is its a crap ton to bolt on. the tunnel where the trans sits is different between some auto's and manuals which can cause problems. you would need drivelines, pedal assembly, etc. do some searching on the board here, it has been done many times. I would suggest finding a whole donor car or a nice car with a blown motor and put your motor in. lots of people swap in the newer generation of engine and trans, thats documented on this site as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted October 23, 2012 Share Posted October 23, 2012 Don't put any money into a Loyale - get a Legacy with a 4 speed automatic. Easily will out wheel a Loyale with a dual range. The Loyale (EA82's in general really) is primitive and not really a great platform to start with. Dump it and get a Legacy. You'll be happy you did. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothell Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 What year Legacy? I had a 98 forester and loved it. Sold it with over 350xxx on it. I do want to get a older subaru and lift it up a little. I thought this loyale might work. Maybe not:confused: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 it depends on what you want it for. if you want an old subaru of these years lifted then it will work just fine. If you just want a dependable car to get you to a kayaking spot then plan a little for where you want to spend. the newer generation (any legacy, outback, forester,etc) will have more power, better handling, etc. they will have more reliable parts and easier to get replacements. cant lift them as much, but they dont require modifications just to get decent tires under them. the older generation like your loyale is more of a work of love. they will be cheaper and easier to fix, though in some cases you will likely have to fix it more often. parts are still fairly available but will eventually start to dwindle. Many of the mods that people do to loyales is simply putting newer stuff on them, so unless the loyale has appeal simply for what it is or the adventure of building one, then you may likely be better off in a newer generation. for myself, I own an 87 GL, cause I want to. Id rather build and convert this wagon to be exactly what I want then buy something off the shelf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothell Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 I think I'll stick with the loyale. Every boater out there has a newer subie. I want someting old school that I've moded out myself. I'm sure it will take several years to get it were I want it, but it will be worth it. I am woried a little about the rust I'm finding. I think the floor pan may be shot:mad: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 mainly check the frame rails along the bottom for rust. also door frames, around windows, etc. floor pans and side sheet metal are a fairly easy fix if you have access to a welder and/or someone who knows body work. if the rust is bad on the areas mentioned (or just bad in general), combined with the auto trans, I would probably look around for a decent body with a manual. take the best pieces of each and make a solid car out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rothell Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 Car actuly has very little rust. The bulk of the rust is in rear wheel wells on the front side only. Right were the rear seat belts anchor. I moved seat belt anchors inward in car. I cut a hole in the wheel well and anchored under rear seat. Now all I have to do is re-weld wheel wells. As far as the safty of the seat belts I whent above and beyond I used 1/4 " steal 3x3 square for a back plate and new grade 8 hardware. As for floor pan I took out carpet yesterday and see no rust. Just a small weak spot in rear passenger floor board I think I will reinforce these areas. As I prep for this I guess I'll find if it's rust or not. If It is dont think its to bad. This thread is going way off track. Do aperciate everones info though. Think I'll start a my project car thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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