Hey all,

 

The title is incorrect. It should read "cannont turn Counterclockwise"...

 

 

 I have been working on my swap (1993 EJ22 into 1992 Loyale), and have run into a disheartening problem. I had a hard time getting the motor to line up while putting it in. So, what I did was loosen the clutch pressure plate (PP) bolts. Motor went in with no problems. This is where my stomach kind of dropped.... I put a socket wrench on the crank bolt in order to turn the flywheel so that I could tighten the PP bolts. Well, I made it about 1/4 revolution (counterclock-wise) before it siezed. Tried a little extra pressure, but I'm pretty sure It'll just undo the crank bolt that I've already torqued... I can turn the crank clockwise with ease. There is one point at which it feels like it drags on something slightly, but it'll still turn (clockwise).

  The only thing significant that I did to the motor, was recondition the heads, and replace gaskets. Do I need to pull the motor back out? Why can I turn it one way, but not the other??

 

Thanks,

 

 

Greg

Edited February 24, 201313 yr by suprunner

so you didn't change out the timing belt before the swap?  or if you did, everything spun ok both ways?  if its seized this won't help much but you could take out the plugs to drop the compression.  

Transmission isn't in gear is it? That could make it difficult, but the wheels would have to be on the ground.

 

Did you do any other work to the engine before putting it in? Is the seize a hard stop, does it clunk or knock like two pieces hitting each other? Or is it a gradual increase in resistance?

 

Normal rotation is clockwise, turn it clockwise and tighten the pressure plate bolts a little at a time. See how it does after tightening them.

Transmission isn't in gear is it? That could make it difficult, but the wheels would have to be on the ground.

 

Normal rotation is clockwise, turn it clockwise and tighten the pressure plate bolts a little at a time. See how it does after tightening them.

+1

 

Also going backwards you could be fighting significant compression.

Thank you for replying. I found the problem. I'm getting very good at removing/replacing motors now.... But to what happened: Once the motor was mated to the bellhousing, some of the extra length of chain (from the engine hoist) fell down the service hole in the block. The chain got behind the flywheel. Every time I turned it clockwise, the chain would slip down. Then when I tried turning anticlockwise, it got lodged. No worries now. Again, thank you!

 

 

On a non-related note, do any of you guys know how to hook up the charcoal canister (from Loyale) to the new EJ motor?

 

Thanks,

 

Greg

you dont really need the charcoal canister, emissions control system parts are over rated

you dont really need the charcoal canister, emissions control system parts are over rated

 

Copy.

There is a purge solenoid for the canister under the number 3 intake runner. Connect the outlet line of the canister to one of the ports on the purge solenoid. The other port on the solenoid should go to the manifold. I don't know much about what gets left and what gets cut out of the harness on swaps poem this, but I doubt the other valves and solenoids of the Evap system will be hooked up anyway. Not much point in hooking up the canister if the rest don't work either. But you will want to cap off the purge solenoid or the manifold port where it connects (or used to connect).

 

you dont really need the charcoal canister, emissions control system parts are over rated

You will have gas pouring out the vent first time you fill up on a hot day without a canister. You do need it.

 

Hook the large EJ vent to the hose coming out of the dome in the canister. Hook the smaller line to the small port right next to the first on the canister. Cap the other 2 on the canister.

 

Or get an EJ canister next time you are at a wrecker.

Edited February 27, 201313 yr by Gloyale