Thanks to Shawn, our fearless Board leader, I now have a Weber on my 87 Hatch.  It was pretty simple to put in.  The most time consuming part was eliminating all the hitachi sensors, valves, and hoses etc.  After I extended the wire for the electric choke, redid the fuel lines, and pvc hoses...I was amazed how clean, organized, and simple the engine bay is now.  I love it.  That is just the beginning...Upon start up, she fired right up ran smoother.  It never really ran "bad" before, but I notice a difference.  Acceleration is more responsive and it seems I have a few more horses.  I am overall very impressed, well worth the money.

 

I just need to take into a shop and have them FINE tune it, for optimum performance and fuel economy.

 

I still have a problem, maybe you guys can help.  It did this with the hitachi as well, I thought the carb was the problem.  When I shut it off, it continues to run for another second or 2.  It does not do it all the time, intermittently.  Typically if I VERY slowly turn the key off, it will not continue to run for another second and sputter off.  When it does continue to run for second or two, and I re start it immediately or 15-20 mins later, it has a little bit of a rough time starting and runs rough.  Is the ignition switch worn or coil?  Thoughts on this?

 

Thanks,

Wes 

Yeah,It"s a Trip to open the Hood and There"s nothing there  You can actually SEE the Motor and Realize that What Is There is All  It needs to run-Carb,Disty

the 15-20 minute thing is probably the fuel draining back into the tank.  there is enough fuel in the bowl to start, but the lines are dry and need primed.  mine does that as well.  Mine doesnt diesel though.

 

check your fuel pressure, webers are sensitive to pressure.  

That makes sense.  But it dieseled with with the Hitachi too.  I have a new fuel pump on there, but I will check the pressure to ensure it is no more or less than the Weber wants.

ok so how does yours fit with the throttle cable like it is?  when I put mine on I had to put the carb on the other way cause the little round part of the carb hit my plug wires..  so my throttle cable comes up next to the alternator and then loops back to the carb...

Is the Fuel Return Line hooked up? Most of the guys on here put a fuel pressure regulator on them...I"ve never had to....

ok so how does yours fit with the throttle cable like it is?  when I put mine on I had to put the carb on the other way cause the little round part of the carb hit my plug wires..  so my throttle cable comes up next to the alternator and then loops back to the carb...

Really??  I bet that was a hassle to route.  Mine just barely misses the plug wires.  What year is yours?  

Is the Fuel Return Line hooked up? Most of the guys on here put a fuel pressure regulator on them...I"ve never had to....

No I didn't, GD said on older threads you can do it either way.  I figured, one less hose...simpler and easier  I don't see a reason to throw pressure regulator on, unless someone can give a justifiable reason.  

My weber was loading up with too much fuel all the time, so I did put on an adjustable regulator. I plumbed in the return line fitting from the hitachi too, so (theoretically) the pump won't see more pressure than it needs to. I figured, the hose is there, the fitting is there, so why not.

 

Mine does the same thing too, running on after the key is off. Only occasionally, and only for a second or two at the most. Not sure why it does it exactly, but to my ear it sure doesnt sound like dieseling. Its like its still getting spark for a couple extra revolutions. I dont worry about it. Anyways...

 

As to the rough restart; does it smell like gas? Could just be flooded. Mine does that still every now and again. Especially if I was driving it like its stolen before i shut it off. I dont worry about it.

Good luck!

Really??  I bet that was a hassle to route.  Mine just barely misses the plug wires.  What year is yours?  

actually it went on super easy backwards, lol  no issues other than the throttle cable being a little tight, but it doesn't bind and works fine..  I have an 84' ea81 wagon.. nothing special..

 

on the the dieseling..   I left my fuel return hose hooked up, it gets rid of the need for a fuel pressure regulator..  the fuel is able to flow back to the tank when the floats cut the flow off..

 

if your timing is advanced a little too far it might cause it to diesel a little..  might check it..    mine doesn't diesel at all, but everything was original like out of a museum when I put the weber on...

 

maybe it needs to be put on backwards?!@#   lol   just kidding...

 

 

edit: ok looking at your pic again, I must have a tad bit different weber carb version...the part the sticks out (in your pic) right next to your plug wire, is different,  yours is shorter,  mine sticks out another inch..  guess mine stays on backwards..

Edited March 27, 201313 yr by Meeky Moose

I should"ve mentioned the return line....thats the way I do mine....The Runon issue is probably a little rich and timing a little off But without a return line it"s getting a little extra gas which could cause it also...

You guys are right, it won't hurt to throw the return line on. I will double check the timing too. Thanks to all.

Somebody explain this to me please...not trying to be a wiseass. ignition timing is just that, the timing of the spark. So how would advanced ignition timing cause it to continue to run once the key is off? Key off=no spark anyway, so ignition timing is irrelevent

Overadvanced ignition timing results in too high temps leaving a spot hot enough to ignite the fuel w/o a spark.

You create an unintentional glow plug.

Overadvanced ignition timing results in too high temps leaving a spot hot enough to ignite the fuel w/o a spark.You create an unintentional glow plug.

Hmmm, maybe. If the timing were the issue here, i think thered be other driveability problems as well. Like "pinging" at least. And with mine at least, it does not sound like dieseling. I kinda figured it was 12v volts somehow finding its way to the coil for a second after the key was off.

Regardless, i think its a non-issue.

Looks real good!  Nice work!

Okay where does the return fuel line need to hook into? I am not following where it goes to and from

Okay where does the return fuel line need to hook into? I am not following where it goes to and from

Put the fitting on the carb, and hook up the factory return line....

Since it did it with both carbs, I'm gonna say it's not the carb.  It's electrical.

 

Ignition switch.

 

My 84 Sedan does it and my 86 Brat too sometimes even kicks the starter for a moment when turning key off.

 

Turn it slowly, and it doesn't happen.

Since it did it with both carbs, I'm gonna say it's not the carb.  It's electrical.

 

Ignition switch.

 

My 84 Sedan does it and my 86 Brat too sometimes even kicks the starter for a moment when turning key off.

 

Turn it slowly, and it doesn't happen.

Oh neato, so i was actually maybe correct when i said i figured it felt like power was somehow making it to the coil after i turned the key off. I knew i wasnt crazy! Oh wait....