soobiefreak85

Yep, I have done a lot of diagnostic in my life. Every time in a case like this, it was the starter. You learn something new every day. I will add to my checklist next time.

Ya, electrical theory is almost counterintuitive.

Hey guys, So, the craziest thing happened this weekend. I jump in the car, turn the key and CLICK....turn the key again and CLICK! My initial thought was...205k it has to be the starter. Solenoid clicks, starter won't spin, it must have went bad. So, I ran all the normal checks to be sure: Battery have enough power? Yes. Continuity to the starter? Yes. Grounds all good? Yes. All the fuses good? Yes. Continuity from the switch to the starter? Yes. Relay? No, the solenoid wouldn't get any power if the relay was faulty. Ignition Switch? No, the solenoid wouldn't get any power if the switch was faulty. Took the battery and starter connections off and made sure they are all clean and tight? Done. Jump start, to ensure it is getting max power...still nothing. What else is there? It's getting power obviously, the solenoid is clicking, the starter has to be bad. So, I run up to my friendly Advance Auto and pick-up a starter, and throw her on there. I turn the key and CLICK.... What the heck???? So, I pull it out (they come out so easy) and run it up to Advance to have them check it. I figured, maybe I got a bad re-manufactured starter. Nope, runs great....gosh what the heck? I figured I checked everything, so I called my Dad and asked him what I missed. He went through the all the checks he would do and concluded it has to be the starter. Finally he says, "Humor me, run one of those booster cables from the battery to the starter." I replied, "But we already checked the continuity, it was good." Again he says, "humor me". So, I do it and she fires right up. In conclusion, the continuity was there, but an unseen break in the middle of the battery cable allowed the solenoid to activate but not let the starter spin. It makes sense, the starter draws a lot of amps, it needs as much of that wire as possible. I found it interesting, a whole afternoon of checks and pure frustration....and it was a freakin $8 battery cable. She is 25 years old, so I went ahead and replaced the ground too. I thought I would share my experience, in case you run into the same issue in the future. Best of luck my friends! -Wes

Thanks for the great info. This one has 45k volts as well, but has lower resistance primary and secondary than stock, you would think a lower resistance wouldn't hurt the ignition module. It's crazy to factor in all these variables.

Sorry about that. Yes, 1987 ea81. I looked up the specs for both the stock and blaster coil, and actually the resistance is lower than stock, but volts are higher. Your answer is confusing, you say no, but then say yes it is damaging. I trust your opinion, which coil should I get? Thanks, Wes

Hey, I am looking to replace my stock 26 year old coil, before it fails me at the worst possible time. They have numerous choices at the part store. I would like something with a bit more spunk. I have seen mixed results on here. Is the MSD Blaster High Vibration a good idea? I heard they burn up the disty? But, I have also heard they are great, no problems... This is the one, it is on sale for $54 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_coil-blaster-high-vibration-msd-ignition_17350176-p?searchTerm=8222 -Wes

You guys are right, it won't hurt to throw the return line on. I will double check the timing too. Thanks to all.

No I didn't, GD said on older threads you can do it either way. I figured, one less hose...simpler and easier I don't see a reason to throw pressure regulator on, unless someone can give a justifiable reason.

Really?? I bet that was a hassle to route. Mine just barely misses the plug wires. What year is yours?

That makes sense. But it dieseled with with the Hitachi too. I have a new fuel pump on there, but I will check the pressure to ensure it is no more or less than the Weber wants.

Thanks to Shawn, our fearless Board leader, I now have a Weber on my 87 Hatch. It was pretty simple to put in. The most time consuming part was eliminating all the hitachi sensors, valves, and hoses etc. After I extended the wire for the electric choke, redid the fuel lines, and pvc hoses...I was amazed how clean, organized, and simple the engine bay is now. I love it. That is just the beginning...Upon start up, she fired right up ran smoother. It never really ran "bad" before, but I notice a difference. Acceleration is more responsive and it seems I have a few more horses. I am overall very impressed, well worth the money. I just need to take into a shop and have them FINE tune it, for optimum performance and fuel economy. I still have a problem, maybe you guys can help. It did this with the hitachi as well, I thought the carb was the problem. When I shut it off, it continues to run for another second or 2. It does not do it all the time, intermittently. Typically if I VERY slowly turn the key off, it will not continue to run for another second and sputter off. When it does continue to run for second or two, and I re start it immediately or 15-20 mins later, it has a little bit of a rough time starting and runs rough. Is the ignition switch worn or coil? Thoughts on this? Thanks, Wes

I like it (just like every other Subie), however, I wish Subaru would expand their horizons a bit. Currently, if you walk onto the Subaru dealer lot your got the Outback, Forester, Crosstrek...for the most part. How many wagons do we need? What are the differences? Same concept, just a little different in size, price, fuel economy... Personally, I think instead of coming out with the crosstrek, they should have came out with a pickup, small and full size. Nothing huge, just a half ton...with the traditional boxer motor and AWD. Subaru offers it all, safety, price, towing, versatility, options, reliability, etc. What are we missing? The truck bed option, for our blue collar workers and truck enthusiasts. Wes

Not mine, just passing it on. Call the person on the post, he might want to ship. http://littlerock.craigslist.org/pts/3604779418.html

Hey man, I have been using it for years. Never had an issue. I have used it for coolant sensor threads as well, it isn't just for air. If you can't throw an O-ring on there, Teflon tape is the only option you have. Is there other options you know of? -Wes

I have always wondered the same thing. I agree with GD, they are build differently than other cars, tough!

Sounds silly, but pull the cap off and check the plastic soft sleeve on the inside the cap. If that is pushed out, push it in to its natural position. It should be flat. I have seen brakes get spongy or weak because of this. -Wes

I would just remove the fitting, throw some teflon tape on the threads and tighten it back up, should be good. If the pump is not faulty, don't replace. Just a leaky fitting. -Wes

I would look at tire size and condition. Secondly, alignment. I have seen it before. You will never get the full potential without out those tires trued up and accurate. You may have to replace parts to get the alignment accurate at times.

Hey man, 90-96 ej22 is NOT, 97 and after is interference. Wes

How many miles did it have? I don't think he was saying they never fail, every engine out there is vulnerable. It is more vulnerable in the ej25.

After removing the cover, the belt doesn't feel as tight as it is suppose to be, but I have nothing to compare it to except memory and common sense lol. I see what you mean on the heater core now, but it was constant warm. Very interesting good info, I appreciate your time. I will continue to investigate.

I cranked the heater to hot, nice and warm constantly. Even it was clogged it wouldn't cause this issue. I doubled checked the burping as well, all good. I did a compression test as well, I was concerned that I warped the heads or blew the gasket when it got hot. Compression tested good and even. It has 249k plus on it, speedometor is broken. I would estimate probably 260 or 270k now. I wouldn't think the water pump would be intermittent, I am almost convinced it is the tensioner slipping. Who knows it could.be OEM.

Had a leaky water pump on my 97 impreza. Replaced it with thermostat, coolant flush, timing belt, and bearings. Ran great for a week. Then all the sudden, it started overheating. No leaks, fans are working. I was convinced it was dud thermostat. Replaced it with another brand, yes I put it in the right way. Still overheating. Replaced radiator and hoses with another coolant flush. Same thing. It will idle all day long and will drive just fine for a while. It seems to overheat while under load going up hill or high speeds. Did I get a dud water pump? Or the is the tensioner weak? What else is there? It is weird how it is intermittent and common to overheat on hills, I am thinking the tensioner is weak ans slipping on the water pump. Thoughts? Wes

Thanks for the info. It seems that is on those that have front and rear speakers, I only have rear. I don't plan on adding front now, maybe later. As far buying parts, typically I have to go with that approach, telling them it is older.

Looking to throw a stereo in my 87 Hatch STD. I have searched and searched for a stereo harness for it, I can only find ones for DL, GL, and BRAT in that year. Is it safe to say that the DL one will work, such as the link below? Thanks for the help. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-Aftermarket-Radio-Wire-Harness-Stereo-Connect-Wiring-SU-8900-/160774145493?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1987|Make%3ASubaru&hash=item256ee2c5d5&vxp=mtr Wes