ericcroll Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 97 Legacy Outback with about 200000. Okay, so I replaced a very bad wheel bearing (due to a loose axle nut) last weekend, and although the bearing now feels and sounds fine, the ball joint is sloppy. I got a new ball joint and started dismantling the thing, but after backing the axle nut off about a turn, it stopped. I can turn it about a 1/4 turn back on, but it gets stuck there now too. It is now loose so that the axle will jiggle/slide in and out of the hub, and also the outer part of the hub is not tight to the inner part (to say that a different way, if the axle nut were to come off, the outer part of the knuckle (lugs and abs sensor ring) would come off with no tools. I've removed axles quite a few times, and never come across anything like it. I am at a loss, and am about to just remove the axle at the tranny and go to the junkyard to buy a whole new knuckle with an axle attached to it. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 spindle is worn down wear the iner bering rindes on the race and threads are balled up on axle shaft axle probly toast a axle / hub assembly from wreaker best bet. I whould impact the nut tin can get axle at least out i just bought a torque mutiypyer when i put 250 ftlbs in gives me 1000ftlbs out this works good for breaking stuff like that my new favort tool 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericcroll Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 Yeah, I'm starting to think that as well after talking with a few people. I had a five foot bar on the end of a 1/2" breaker bar, and I still couldn't move the thing. I'm guessing that I was able to get about 600-700 ft-lbs on it. I'm about ready to cut it off with a torch, but I don't want to ruin the knuckle, as I just put a brand new bearing in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted April 13, 2013 Share Posted April 13, 2013 If the hub is coming out of the bearing something is wrong with the bearing. Hub should stay pressed into the bearing, irregardless of wether the nut is tight. Hate to say it but your bearing is probably already shot. Just a question, did you make sure to reinstall the large circlip behind the bearing outer race? I've seen it forgotten and it results with this kind thing happening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericcroll Posted April 13, 2013 Author Share Posted April 13, 2013 The bearing still felt/sounded good when I pulled it into the garage. I'm not sure what circlip you're referring to, which I realize is probably a bad thing to start with, but I'm aware of the snap-ring on the inside (which I replaced), but there seemed to be a fixed lip on the outside that the bearing fit up tight to, so I guess I'm a bit confused at this point. Admittedly, I'm no bearing expert. In fact, this was only the third one I've ever done. The first was on a BMW quite a few years back, and the second was on the back of this car. The first two worked well, with no problems afterward, so I felt confident enough to do this one. I could certainly be an idiot at this point... LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 (edited) the "lugs" should not be loose and wobbling around, those are press fit and part of the hub assembly so like Gloyale said something else is wrong with the hub/bearing...and maybe *that* was loose and not the ball joint or that caused the ball joint problems? of course we only have words to work with so we're still trying to get what you're seeing...so keep helping us if it seems like we're not getting it! online forums are like marriage/dating....what is said and what is heard are often two different things. LOL i have a 900 ft/lb 3/4" monster air gun and i've had a couple axle nuts that it can't get off. not sure why but it takes a *really* long pipe and jumping up and down on it to get them off.....a little heat around the nut will help immensely too - just heat up the nut really fast and then hit it with torque immediately while it is hot but he surrounding metal is not. a friend of mine even just uses propane camping bottles to do that and said it helps them come off easier. but the seized ones i'm talking about are usually due to time/corossion/rust or something like that and don't move at all...very odd that yours moves a little bit, never seen that before. could you get a used knuckle and reinstall your new bearing in a used knuckle? Edited April 14, 2013 by grossgary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 I'm sure you've used penetrating oil? you could try a 'little' heat, w'ever you felt would be OK for the bearing. hubs get a little hot anyway right? I've heard of people backing the cheater bar against the ground and DRIVING the car to turn a stuck nut. Of course you have to put the wheel back on so, lugs have to be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivans imports Posted April 14, 2013 Share Posted April 14, 2013 drive drag or tow it to the nearest heavy duty truck repiar shop and have them put a 1inch impact gun on nut and shear the axle off will atke about 1200lbs to do have had to shear one before and it takes alot or mabee you could rent a masive 1 inch gun or strong 3/4 gun or rent a torque mutipyer with 3/4 drive 32 mm. Anyway i bet the spindle is worn on the iner part were the berring race rides on spindle have had 15 in a row with this problem so many we made a jig to repair them by welding them up and latheing them back down Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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