This seems pretty insugnificant but I am trying to install a stereo in my son's Subaru GL wagon.  Now this is a project car that had been sitting for along time before we got it and it had a stereo stolen out of it.  It all the schematics it shows the yellow wire being constant 12 vlt.  I can't find a constant 12 any where.  Checked all the fuses??????? any Idears?d

This seems pretty insugnificant but I am trying to install a stereo in my son's Subaru GL wagon.  Now this is a project car that had been sitting for along time before we got it and it had a stereo stolen out of it.  It all the schematics it shows the yellow wire being constant 12 vlt.  I can't find a constant 12 any where.  Checked all the fuses??????? any Idears?d

Having just recently installed a radio into my 85' Brat, I can offer you what I did. I used the wire off the door chime for full-time hot, which is a yellow wire. Its a green connector under the driver side dash  with a solid yellow, and solid black wire. I did not find a full time hot in the radio harness its self, and I believe this has something to do with the fact that the pre-sets are not stored by memory of the radio, but rather mechanically. This of course, pertains to an EA81 bodied Subaru. It may be the same in an EA82, but ive never worked on one before. Hope this helps.

My son's GL has an EA-81 on the Leone/Loyale body.  It is one of those in between one's.  It is not the one in the photo.  When you did your connector did it have a yellow unused wire?

No, the wire was in use. It was wired to the door chime. If you hate the door chime, you can just cut the wire and hook it up to the radio, or you can just splice it into the wire without "breaking" the door chime. I can't see there being enough amp draw to cause a problem with the second way I mentioned, as that's the way I have mine wired. If all else fails and you dont feel comfortable with either of the ways mentioned, you can always run a piece of wire from the battery to the radio with little effort. I would advise an inline fuse whichever way you go, though. Better safe than sorry.

search out "common ground" on this site.  older subs used a common speaker ground and if you don't account for it then it will give you fits with newer stereos.  Not the cause of your power issue, but its something you want to research.

 

you can run a new wire with an inline fuse, which is probably the best option.  Popular option is to splice into the door chime or cig lighter, but running a wire or using the stock one is best.  

Green wire in a single connect is constant 12v.

 

Blue/ yellow stripe wire is Ig. Switched 12v

 

Run new speaker wire to the front speakers. The connectors for the front speakers are under the kick panell trim each side. Pink 2 pole connectors. The blue wire is negative and white and yellow are the positive wires.

 

Wire the rear speakers to the harness in the dash.

 

If you wire all speakers to the dash wiring, you will have the negs of front and rear speakers tied together which will burn out your deck.

Thank you all for the help.  I need to print this out tonight and take to the shop and look at it so I know what you all are talking about and go from there.  It is appreciated thank you again everyone....Cheers.

 There is a black box approximately 4x5 is that it?

black box with a tan plug next to the radio is probably the door dinger.  unplug it and turn the key with the door open and you will see.

Green wire in a single connect is constant 12v.

 

Blue/ yellow stripe wire is Ig. Switched 12v

 

Run new speaker wire to the front speakers. The connectors for the front speakers are under the kick panell trim each side. Pink 2 pole connectors. The blue wire is negative and white and yellow are the positive wires.

 

Wire the rear speakers to the harness in the dash.

 

If you wire all speakers to the dash wiring, you will have the negs of front and rear speakers tied together which will burn out your deck.

Thanks,

 

Found the single pole wire.  It is nice not to splice OEM when ever possible. 

 

Eric

black box with a tan plug next to the radio is probably the door dinger.  unplug it and turn the key with the door open and you will see.

Your right! Does it control anything else?

not that I have noticed, took mine out to make room.  checked every button I could find, no change other than the door chime.

search out "common ground" on this site.  older subs used a common speaker ground and if you don't account for it then it will give you fits with newer stereos.  Not the cause of your power issue, but its something you want to research.

 

you can run a new wire with an inline fuse, which is probably the best option.  Popular option is to splice into the door chime or cig lighter, but running a wire or using the stock one is best.  

So after reading the common ground I have been very careful checking the wires.  I have an open on the wires going through the hinge point on the right door.  How on earth do I replace that wire......?  and make it look normal?

as said earlier, do your work at the pink plugs under the dash.

 

Id go to the junk yard and cut the pink plugs out of a junk one.  then wire the dash side pink connector to the new deck directly and plug it in under the dash.  that will isolate the front speakers and you shouldnt have to replace or cut any of the cars wires.  

 

if you are having a problem with the wires themselves as they go through the door, check the speaker itself first to make sure its hooked up.  if its the wire itself then you can twist and tape a new wire to it and pull the old wire out stringing the new as it goes. 

There is a bad wire.  I did a continuity check and one is good the other is open.  Now to run a new wire.  Thanks Eric.

My son is so excited!  Right speaker on now the left!  Pulled the wire as suggested.  Now to do the other side.