Anyone have one they'd part with? Thanks. CNC

2wd or 4wd? If 2wd does it need to be manual shift or automatic ?

 

There's rebuilt on eBay.

Hi. Dunno exactly what I need, but what I want to do is have a spare distributor with points (not an electronic module) for a Loyale with an EA82 engine. From what I hear, that means I need a distributor from an earlier Suby, likely an EA71 2 wheel drive, because the spark advance vacuum gizmo is better suited than a 4wd version. Then I'll need to swap the drive gear off of a EA82 distributor so that the older distributor fits the gears right. Someone chime in if this is not correct, please. I fully expect to get worse mileage and less power, but I can fix it with a Leatherman and some duct tape if I have to. I just think it would be funky. Anyone have the parts available?

i have a bunch have converted all mine to electronic ig but saved the point distribs

Why would you want to retrofit points on an ea82? The electronic module is really simple and almost never fails, the main part that fails are the bushings in the distributor. Why not just keep a spare electronic disty for your car, it would be easier to find.

Edited May 14, 201312 yr by mikaleda

Same reason some people ride horses instead of driving a car. It's funky.

You can make points backfire real easy. Gotta love that at times.

That's what I'm talkin' about....

Same reason some people ride horses instead of driving a car. It's funky.

Makes sense, just a side note here but your going to need a resistor also to wire to the coil to make the points work correctly

Is the resistor in series with the coil, going from +12V to the coil? The condenser would go in parallel with the coil, if I recall. What size resistor (ohms and wattage)?. I'd try to locate one from the same donor car, if possible. Thanks.

I've got a coil setup for parts I'll take a look and get back to you.

Ballast resistor for power to coil.

You do not want full 12VDC (ok, 13.5 on a perfect day) going to your ignition system, you will fry the points in short order, they will arc and pit, and so will the rotor and contacts inside the cap.

 

having said that...

Most vehicles have a temporary bypass that ALLOWS the full 12VDC (ok again, 13.5 on a perfect day) to the system for starting, When the ignition key is turned, the full power is given for starting. when released it drops back through the ballast resistor.

you can make a bypass switch (three way toggle) that allows full power/ballasted (normal) power/and OFF! (theft prevention)

 

Why?

 

Because it really gives a hotter spark, great for those "oh heck" moments when you need just a little more oomph. hills, pulling out into traffic, stuff like that.

Not a good idea to run it like that all the time though, its hard on the ignition components.

Nifty part is the off position,

Zero power to the ignition, and it will not start for nothing with or without the key.

 

 

its good to have options.

 

Of course none of what I have said applies to any electronically controlled ignition systems.

 

black boxes full of witchcraft if ya asks me guvn'r.

yessir, witchcraft, an' no good can come of it if ya asks me..

 

heehee,

timothy

I forgot to add that you should check your coil, SOME of them actually have the resistor INSIDE the coil case, no external ballast required!

They will be marked on the casing as such, Just so you know.

 

Thought I'd better let it be known, because if you have an external ballast resistor, and try to run an internally ballasted coil with it, the average voltage to the coil will be somewhere in the neighborhood of 3VDC...not enough to really run (if it will even fire reliably).

 

My work here is done...

 

quietly,

timothy