May 27, 201312 yr Ok so I did a head gasket job on my 1998 Legacy Outback 2.5 auto... battery was off the car for about a week maybe a little longer then got it all together and hopped right on the highway, drove 100 miles pretty much right away about 100 miles later I get code that says idle control valve too high RPM or something like that... this caused some odd idle issues, mostly flutter at idle after a stop, almost die, bounch up, 2 or 3 times then smooth out I cleared that, then 150 or so miles later the car throws another code Mass air flow low input, caused a really erratic idle, going as high as 1800 and then falling to near 0 or dying altogeter cleared that and a 100 or so miles later I got the EVAP emissions code
May 27, 201312 yr The ECU needs to meet the logic requirements for the specific code so getting codes at different mileage, engine cycles, drive times is not that strange. Clean the IAC Clean the MAF Make sure your gas cap is on tight and all vacuum lines are hooked up correctly.
May 27, 201312 yr +1 on the requirements. I had a similar problem with a buddy's Impy. It needs to run a baseline to figure out if the sensors are even working as well, how the engine is going to "run". 100 or 150 miles allows it to figure a decent average. In my case though, it was throwing the wastegate open and purging boost, kicking a MAF code as well as an O2. Turned out he was running 85 Octane when the book asked for >91. Obviously yours is probably not this case but sometimes its something simple like cleaning a sensor (or plugging one in, i've had those moments). good luck! -Justin Edited May 27, 201312 yr by crazyman03
May 28, 201312 yr Author ok now the transmission is really acting up... what the heck is going on? best to start watching from about 1:40 I will upload a video in a few minutes there are too many failures for it to be real... has to be electrical
May 28, 201312 yr Author maybe I should try this? http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/howresetecu.htm
May 28, 201312 yr try the reset. heck, unplug the battery for like 30 min and see where that gets ya first.. -Justin
May 29, 201312 yr Author well I could only find the 'green' plugs, not the black plugs... but the transmission was shifting a lot smoother after just following the instructions with only the green plug then I took it on the highway... ran it for maybe 5 miles with no issues, only down shifted on inclines or when you really hammered the throttle... however there was one instance where there was some jerking at about 10 miles, I have yet to see this again, and still no CEL
May 29, 201312 yr Wait and see.. maybe try unhooking the battery again and let it sit for a bit. Go back and Re-Re-Recheck your connections. I know you probably already have but just do it again and make sure they are tight. Sometimes it takes going back and retracing your steps. -Justin
May 29, 201312 yr Author well I did the 30 minute reset then let it idle for about 15 mins, then drove for almost an hour no issues so far (half highway half city)
June 2, 201312 yr Author No change. About 15mpg for last ten gallons. Lets look at what we know. 1. For the first 6000 miles I owned this car the only thing I noticed was that it was throwing a code for an evap. And it would misfire sometimes if it was not warmed up. Then it would do a flshing CEL. then run just fine. 2. A few weeks ago,
June 2, 201312 yr Author 2. A few weeks ago it blew a head gasket on the highway and was driven home overheating and stopping often. 3. When I got home I disconnected the battery and started working 4. The 3 main harness plugs where disconnected. 5. The plug on the front o2 sensor got the wires pulled out of the plug... however I was able to get them back in the plug... 2 whites 1 black wires
June 2, 201312 yr Author 7. I found that there where some hoses unhooked. The hose on the valve cover running to the air box. And a small hose on the intake 8. During the repair the battery was unhooked dor about 1.5 weeks
June 2, 201312 yr Author 9. The car through several codes and had shifting issues shortly after being put back together. 10. The car used to get 28mpg highway... now gets 17 or less and also nearly dies when coming to a stop and the idle flutters
June 3, 201312 yr Author pulled live data off it today, several frames and RPM ranges http://txtup.net/T6UDn
June 3, 201312 yr Several frames show your long term fuel trim is maxed out. The ECU is dumping fuel in for some reason. The O2 sensor voltages are a little on the lean side in the later frames. Are you sure you don't have any vacuum leaks? No exhaust leaks at the manifold? Edited June 4, 201312 yr by Fairtax4me
June 4, 201312 yr Author Several frames show your long term fuel trim is maxed out. The ECU is dumping fuel in for some reason. The O2 sensor voltages are a little on the lean side in the later frames. Are you sure you don't have any vacuum leaks? No exhaust leaks at the manifold? actually there is an exhaust leak now that you mention it... reused the gaskets, just have not had time or money to fix it
June 4, 201312 yr Yeah. Your fuel trims are whacked. It's easy to knock a intake gasket out of place and cause issues. I would also make sure you have the O2 pins back in the correct locations. That could easily be causing the fuel trim numbers to be off. The transmission isn't slipping. It's hunting. It looks like the transmission is downshifting and upshifting at will. My first thought was the Throttle position sensor.
June 4, 201312 yr Author could some one explain to me how to read the fuel trims? the intake gasket is new and good, however I know at least the drivers side exhaust mani is leaking at the head(reused the head to exhaust mani gasket) could this be causing the o2 to THINK its lean, hen dumping fuel to 'fix' the problem I think I figured it out Long Term fuel trims maxes out at +27.3... several frames are a that rate Yeah. Your fuel trims are whacked. It's easy to knock a intake gasket out of place and cause issues. I would also make sure you have the O2 pins back in the correct locations. That could easily be causing the fuel trim numbers to be off. The transmission isn't slipping. It's hunting. It looks like the transmission is downshifting and upshifting at will. My first thought was the Throttle position sensor.
June 4, 201312 yr fuels trims should be low. folks start getting concerned at double digits. maxed out is very bad. double check cam timing. cars will run (poorly) 1-2 maybe 3 teeth off time. On some older cars, there's a commonly corroded/loose harness/connector in the back on top or near the charcoal canister. On newer cars, the valve is under the hood. might be a good idea to try a vacuum gauge.
June 4, 201312 yr Author both exhaust manifold gaskets where leaking pretty bad it was easy to see this once I got them off I could see where they where blowing by
June 5, 201312 yr Author ok the exhaust manifold gaskets did not help... I took a closer look at my vac hoses, then I traced the line running to the FPR, it ran under the intake on the right hand side... to a metal line, that ran to NOTHING... well I added a T and hooked the FPR back up, reset the car and fired it up... instantly had a better idle ran 2 test runs and got similar results... http://txtup.co/iVJPd ALSO there is a device under the intake on the right hand, rear side that has a vac hose and some wires running to it, but its not hooked up to a vac hose, and IO don't recall unhooking it, nor is there a port to hook it up to
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