I'll check it out thanks! Picked up some distributors this weekend. not sure if they're any good. We'll see

We'll have you gotten anywhere with this thing?

Sorry for the delay guys. My squadron has had me out of town for the past couple months. I haven't had much time to tinker with it since I've been back but I'm leaning toward a bad distributor since I can actually hear some kind of vibration when my tach starts jumping. I just hate spending the money on parts with out knowing for sure if thats the problem. It's amazing how well she runs just sitting at idle in the driveway!

 

Well I've finally got a chance to begin taking her apart. I started to remove the distributor and noticed there are a few options when it comes to purchasing a new one. I've attached a picture. Is this the right one for my 86 BRAT? I'm assuming it's not the original judging by the splice. Ive also attached a picture of a damaged wire on the carb. Could this contribute to my fuel pump issue? Thanks!

Looks to be the wrong disy, and maybe. The disy should only have one vac port, I'll snap a picture of my tomorrow for ya.

All that craptochi is off my car so can really help with the wire part.

Ya, I have plans for a Weber in the near future but I want to eliminate one problem at a time.

Get a chance to look at that disy?

Sorry been wrapped up in Xmas stuff I'll get a pic before the weeks done.

Ok so I swapped the distributor with the other type and the tach jump and noise seems to have disappeared for now. The car was still missing and dying under load so I temp installed an aftermarket fuel pump. So far, she seems to be running great. The old fuel pump must have been weak and conveniently failed the same time as the distributor. I have the fuel pump wired to a switch right now so I still haven't checked to see if the "no power to fuel pump" problem is resolved with the new disty.

Here's the parts break down I'll still get some pictures of my disy when I get off work tonight. This is for an 84 ea81 brat

Would help if I had posted the picture to go with it.

So it won't let me post a pic just pm me your email address and I'll send it right over.

Well my squadron is sending my away for a few months so I won't be able to tinker on the BRAT for a while. I'll update the status as soon as I return. Thanks to everyone for all the help. I know it's frustrating to try and follow a thread when the guy who posted for help disapears for weeks on end.

Going back to the picture of the carb. I believe the wire goes to an anti
diesel device. If the wire grounds it will stall the car. If this is the problem
try to start the car and wiggle the wire it should affect the way the car
runs.

Paul

Ok so I've finally made it home for alittle bit and all the symptoms seem to have returned. The tach is jumping all over the place again and the car wont drive down the road but it will idle in the driveway all day. The disty I installed was used so I can't completely eliminate that as a possibility but I have tried 2 known good fuel pumps so that is definately out of the equation. I'm lost with this thing I'm about to push it into the Ocean! Please HELP!

Find a hitachi dis for it Nippon ones not so good also have you checked the fuel pump timer ? and the screen in the carb on the neddle and seat was a problem on those carbed cars screen pluged up and bypassed carb = no fuel

I'll try and find a Hitachi. What is the fuel pump timer? what do I remove to get to those screens?

How many volts is this thing throwing out?  I recently killed a voltage reg in mine and it would miss bad once the revs/volts got up.  Ran great at idle tho.

Voltage looks low to me on the gauge but reads 13.98 at the battery. 

fuel pump timer is the safety cut out device found above the pedals, black box with about six wire plug in it. It is a neck and body twisting effort to get at, let alone test it in that spot. I would be testing at the fuel pump and be testing across the two wires at pump - meaning source your neg and pos from the fuel pump plug and see that the test device does not lose power after engine is running. With my 89 Brumby I found fuel pump does not get power until engine is running, so no fuel pump power in start/crank key position as it should start with what fuel is in the float bowl, if engine stalls with ign in run or IGN on position, black box cuts power or earth to pump for safety.

 

However, I tried to disable ignition spark during a comp test so pulled ign fuse I think it would have been and noted fuel pump then ran at odd key positions - didn't run the same protection mode ???[

I wasn't getting power at the fuel pump when this whole thing started so I've had the pump wired to a switch since then.

I'm in the same boat here. I've gone all over the thing and swapped parts all over the place.

 

My investigations are now going toward the wires between the relay and the pump.

 

Some Brumby forums mention problems with grounding of the pump wires.

 

So, getting out the meter and test light and more prising. 

I've not investigated the passenger area of the car yet.

Will let you know if I find the resident gremilin.

 

(Credit to AG Macay's youtube video on his Brumby restoration, "

")

Edited March 3, 201412 yr by kayoteq

The wires should come through the bulkhead directly fwd of the pump I have read mine out to the connector at the relay and had continuity all the way through. If it was grounding out the power wire somewhere I think it would blow a fuse. I have my pump wired direct to a switch for now so I can troubleshoot one problem at a time.

Edited March 3, 201412 yr by TIMBERTIGER

grounding out should be popping a fuse. A fusible link. something.  It seems to defy the flow of electrons itself.

Me, personally I think I may have a melted wire in the harness between the coil and the firewall. I  ran it too long with a bad alternator..