If you can find a decent schematic you might be able to read out the wires from the relay connector and the wires on your coil.

The pump is not getting power. I have it wired direct and she runs like a champ until I go up a hill or put any kind of load on it. Then it just starts missing, sputters and dies. It will start back up and idle though. I have a blaster 2 coil sitting around that I'm going to swap out when I get home. We'll see what that does.

 

Coils / electrics / high tension leads between coil / distributor cap also / spark plugs get over looked in diagnosing these problems.

These electrical components especially coil / high tension leads can break down under load / do intermittant things  when they are failing.

I'll swap out the leads and see if that helps. I'm still not sure what to remove to clean the inlet needle and screen?

Here's a 86 schematic I found online  

I'm wondering if they were trying to fix a voltage  issue with the 86 model, but don't know if the schematic means 86 only or 86-on.

 

 

 

You can remove top half of carb remove float and needle and undo seat is 10 mm or flat screw the screen is on the bottom of that you can cheat by removing the fuel line fitting and peek in with a good light and see if its pluged

Ok, did a full Weber conversion and emissions delete -Didn't solve anything. Pulled another fuel pump control module out of another car, replaced both fuel filters again, replaced fuel pump, disconnected and blew out all lines, drained and flushed fuel tank -Runs like a raped ape! Not sure if i had one single problem or if it was a combination of everything. The old fuel pump control unit was definitely bad though. Got power to the fuel pump as soon as I hooked up the new one. I also noticed that with the new module, I have continuity between the wires at the fuel pump and I didn't have that before either. Thanks everyone!

Check the wiring at the fuel pump, that was my problem, the connections were dirty