comatosellama

Monstaru is the guy you want to talk to, I know he personally has put escort dizzys on ej22. Not sure if he still hangs around here Here’s a thread from a decade ago, not sure why or how this is what my brain remembers.

Damn. I couldn’t ever work on my BRAT cause I was a broke college kid, and now that I have the money the parts aren’t there. I genuinely cannot find an EA81 rear diff to save my life. Guess I’ll have to throw it on an s10 chassis or something 😔

Been scouring the internet looking for a source on rear axle shafts and have come up short. Hoping to finally get my brat on the trails this year but I need at least 3 new rear CV before I can make that happen Additionally looking for a spare rear axle assembly, I welded mine up and need a spare before heading out into the woods - PM if you’ve got one for sale

I was getting ready to put my junkyard 5mt into my Impreza, and realized the clutch fork from the 2002 trans is too long for the 1996 trans. Should I just order the stock clutch fork for the 1996 transmission and use that? Thanks, CL

Do you think a 2004 WRX transmission would be a better option? I was also concerned about the stub axles, but rock auto made it seem they were the same. Thanks

Hello, My clutch and transmission have both decided to grenade, and I'm having a rough time determining which transmission can fit in my car. I have found a rolled over 2005 forester with what I need, but am not sure if the clutch slave and other things will bolt up between the 2005 and 2002. I know I will need the rear diff so the final drive will match (a welcome upgrade), but will everything else go together or are these too far apart? Thanks, CL

Any pics of the liners? Would be cool to get these on my wagon if possible

Hello, Currently I have 4 rims off a 92 legacy, 14x5.5 steelies and some 23x7x14 and 23x10x14 atv / rzr tires that I want to throw on my brat. Do you think those tires will fir on those rims? Thanks, CL

It was the exhaust, the hangar for the cats came undone and was scraping against the exhaust

The squeak 100% comes with bumps in the road. It was gone on my drive to my moped this morning but I'm sure it'll be back. It'd be nice if it was those that's an easy fix

My impreza has developed a squeak ever since I got it back from the dealer. I don't think the squeak is suspension, it happens when starting and shutting down the car. Squeak also happens when car is off and you let the hood close with a decent amount of force, making me think it might be suspension. Jabbing the throttle and quickly letting off the throttle can cause the squeak. Bumps also cause the squeak. I took off both serpentine belts and the squeak was still there. Timing kit and water pump are fresh. Not sure what it can be, makes the car sound like absolute crap though :/ Heres the video Any ideas what this might be? Anyone ever had this squeak on their car? Sounds like it's coming from the front Heres the video

While the dealer was pulling up car after failed diagnosis, the car threw misfire for cyl 2 and 4 codes. I never saw these codes. Dealer says replace coil pack, plugs and wires with OEM. ( All good brands, under 20k old, plugs were already OEM). Picked up car after they replaced parts.Dealer says issue is fixed for the most part, just hesitates a little while going down the road. Issue came back within 500ft out of the parking lot. (I knew this would happen). Dealer work order shows mileage in and mileage out at the same reading, so they didn't even test drive it after their $450 "fix" before telling me everythign was alright. Service advisor takes my car for a test drive after I came back, and it did to him what I had brought it in for, after assuring me it was better. On my receipt for the coil/plugs/wires Dealer states front 02 sensor reading wrong, causing bad fuel trim, and rear o2 reading 0v. Dealer states they will not check into this issue because of my UEL headers. I ask why they replaced the other stuff without testing it just because it wasn't OEM, when they had a test saying something else was wrong. Again, dealer states they will not check into this issue because of my UEL headers, won't even try to fix it unless I get OEM headers and axleback back on the car. After a long discussion with the service advisor and his manager I got a full refund. I then walked to parts counter and bought OEM upstream O2 sensor, replaced it on the side of the street a block down the road, and everything is fixed. Annoyingly the O2 sensor I took out was an identical bosch unit as what the counter guy gave me, but this one works for now at least.

I have a three step kit from Eastwood, converter escapsulator and triple chassis black. Enough to do a 2 door keep was a few hundred bucks, stuff works great though, I use it for spot treatment on my car.

Did it for 3 or 4 quarter-half tanks at different gas stations. The issue started a little back in early September, then I picked up my 89 f350 and didn't drive the impreza until nov 3rd. Car pretty much immediately started acting this way, getting worse over time. I don't think the snow made it worse, it slid around just fine the first day or two of snow, now it's unusable until this is fixed. Drives fine at 3k rpm, hopefully the dealer isn't just throwing parts at it

Looks like your link is wrong, could you link to the part page, not your checkout page? Been looking for one of these for a while! Thanks - CL edit : here is the right link. The website lists them as universal, please update on fitment! https://www.autopartsway.com/partlist.cfm?subaru/1985/brat/allsmd/allen/allb/ignition/secondary-ignition/distributor-vacuum-advance

Dealer says nothing is wrong ......... They say they checked plugs and wires, did a compression test, and that the car suddenly drives fine. Hopefully it actually does work fine. Going to ask if they did a vacuum test, they said I shouldn't have aftermarket ignition coil, wires and plugs. Plugs are NGK so I'm not so worried about those. I'm pretty sure it's gonna come back as soon as I roll out of the lot though The ascent I had over the weekend was 10/10, pretty much self driving, so $150 for a 4 day rental on an ascent isn't too terrible. Those things can move, they're much much better than a crosstrek ( I had a 2019 crosstrek for a day as well) update: car threw cyl 2 and 4 misfire codes while they were pulling it up to send me on my way. No charge for diagnosis because the codes threw after we signed the $0 bill which I kinda feel bad about, so I had them replace coil pack, wires, and plugs for $475 installed. Results of compression test are cyl 1 200psi cyl 2 195psi cyl 3 200psi cyl 4 185psi not a bad price for diagnosis, compression test, OEM parts and an Ascent rental car for 6 days. EDIT: removed a line

the fix was to take off the hex head bolt holding on the clutch, and putting it back on over torqued

I believe you have piston slap, my car has done the same thing with the same (i think) engine for 40k miles with no issue. I take it to the dealer and they tell that as long as it goes away in less than 5 minutes, it is normal. Same thing with an oil leak 1qt/1000mi The piston slap on my car is VERY loud under 32 degrees F, so loudness doesn't mean it can't be piston slap. I can hear it over my subwoofer some days. Even more anecdotal evidence: I was talking to a friend with a built 07 STI, about this, and he said his brand new built block knocked from day 1, so a new block may not solve your problem. My advice is to keep oil in it, and let it warm up for 2-3 minutes before you hop on the highway. I spent 6 months freaking out about this issue, i think i have 5-6 posts about it. I would just drive it. I'll try and find my piston slap videos so you can compare.

Subaruoutback.org may have a quicker answer, they all drive the same car as you

I highly recommend Ziebart undercoating. It's $400, and they coat the entire underside of your car and will spray where you tell them to if you ask nicely. I think they do a converter followed by a rubberized black undercoating. They drill into the top of the rocker under the doorsill and completely coat the inside of the rockers, the inside of the doors, the inside of the rear hatch, and inside the rear doorsill/quarterpanel. It quiets the cabin quite a bit as well. Reapplication is $40, again covering the entire under body. My impreza in on her 3rd michigan winter after moving from north carolina and the underbody is still 100% rust free. My friends 02 Duramax has had great results as well. I swear I don't work there lol, just a happy customer. I'm 90% sure I have the cleanest n/a old subie in michigan

Been thinking about doing this since I bought my first car. Disregarding wiring and plumbing do you think a hybrid motor or a 3.6 swap is more worthwhile? OP said he's willing to put in a 'new' engine so I figure I'm not too far off topic

Either that or a riced out 4.0 mustang seem like good options. LQ swapped Chevy Colorado also comes to mind. I've seen those swapped for zero net cost and very rarely for profit after parting out the donor car Edit: Also, OP, a civic with a b18 turbo engine checks all your boxes. Anyone can swap a honda

It's at the dealer now, sadly I have no time or place to really get into it while I'm at school. Will update with what the dealer says. I wish i could have taken it somewhere else but around here people religiously drive american cars so there isn't a subaru shop around here. ( if anyone knows a good shop near michigan state let me know!!!) In the meantime this loaner 2019 Crosstrek is treating me well, I'll just never understand why they made is slower than my impreza.

Easiest way to get 250hp out of that car is to sell it and buy a clapped out trans am

2.5 SOHC non turbo