comatosellama

Bash out your cat, straight pipe to a decent muffler in the back. 2.25 after the header.

Rotella T6 for life, in everything

Someone should start the East coast/midwest Subaru Show... I'd definitely be there

Do the open sides of the holes have any effect on it?

$1.36 screw grommet http://www.buysubarupartsnow.com/oe-subaru/791017130 $.66 clip http://www.oepartsmart.com/oe-subaru/791017200

I can see it for PS, where the cost of failure isn't insane, but for things like oil and radiators, I'd stay away. OIn the oil could glod something in the engine and I know of heater cores getting ruined from it going in the coolant.

ej suspension on an ea71? Please take many pictures

3&5 are a 6" lift, 4 looks like a 4". IDK what's up with the last one, I think the just lifted the struts and dropped the diff, but is probably a 6" Tire seems real close to the rear wheel well. Here's an 8" . IMO I wouldn't wanna go that high if you need to tow, might get a tad tippy. 4" would be my opinion for something that's gonna be towing and wheeling (or so I've heard, I'd ask some of the old timers). Normal engine swap here is ej22, ej25 can be a tight squeeze in the framerails, especially on the DOHC, and people are afraid of the headgaskets. Also older ej22's are non interference which I like. I'd definitely suggest some brake upgrades though. Rear discs, xt6 discs, maybe a master cylinder upgrade? 1500# trailer is about 70% of the car weight, brakes could get iffy with tires and rims too

Don't do silicone spray, WD40 would be the better option. According to Subaru silicone spray will degrade (or something like that) under voltage and cause crappy connections. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/41143-silicone-containing-sprays-lead-electrical-contact-problems.html

I'm surprised it took for long for this to come up

How's the D30 hold up to the V8?

Got the dash lights back on (re-did a couple PO wires, and a fuse), and no longer really care about the dash multi meter as I know it's running acceptable voltage, might rig up a custom one into my switch panel at some point down the road. Now my left turn signal light on the dash is permanently on however, but I don't have any working turn signals as it is, so I'll wait to plug some in to decide if it's really broken. Thanks a lot guys!

Here's another thread like this with some good info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/56455-ea81-engine-year/

Add in a dog and a girl and that picture is everything I've ever wanted. Absolutely beautiful soob, it's the ultimate battlewagon!

OK- so I finally got my 1987 BRAT (big blue) running good and hooked up with a working alternator from a 94 pathfinder (seen here) and I've still got a few wiring issues and would really appreciate some help figuring them out! Problem 1: Fuel sender wire got burnt off during some welding, does anyone know where the 2 wires come out of the cab from? Wanna just take them back on a set of new wires anyway, stuff on the rear end isn't too pretty. Problem 2: Does anyone know where the power wire for the Dash/Heater control back lighting is? Power to those are out, while the headlights and stuff all work. Minor problem: The dash voltmeter ALWAYS reads full volts, no matter what. Even if the battery is pretty much dead, it just pegs itself at maximum voltage++ Thanks in advance- I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel with by BRAT. -CL

I just got over this issue, for me it was timing. Killed my cat (alytic converter) trying to figure it out Nope, that's a diesel thing. Just crank it a few times while flooring it and you should eventually get gas up there. Mine's hardwired and it takes about 7 seconds for it to go through both filters after filling an empty tank.

Aaaaaaaaaand they're out of stock

$170 seems decent compared to the $760 and $940 I saw....

Here's my entry: Alternator bracket broken? Can't find one within 2000 miles because the Midwest sucks and you don't want to pay out the wazoo for a new one? Grab a nut and a bolt or two and make your own super-MacGyver "bracket" Image of it: http://m.imgur.com/WIuxNId

And a picture of it mounted http://m.imgur.com/WIuxNId

Link to the alternator I'm taking about http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/6749-05419994.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=1995+Nissan+Pathfinder+Alternator+Remy+95+Nissan+Alternator&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=Cj0KEQiA2b20BRDj4buduIG-y9EBEiQAhgMGFf6L2-B0nP4IkSGr6f_PvSHLv8P1u6jwt-5nX7Cpv8YaAps38P8HAQ

Alternator blew out last night, happened to find another super easy alternator upgrade. This alternator does not require a pulley swap unlike the altima alternator Mine came off of a 1994 pathfinder v6. But I'm fairly certain that any alternator from a Nissan vehicle equipped with a naturally aspirated VG30 (3 liter V6) will fit. Only modification needed is to grind the inside (sides facing each other) of the mounting "ears" on the side with 2 mounts. There's a bolt sleeve type thing that you'll want to grind flat. Then get a small washer and put that in between the bracket and the alt when you bolt it on. Not 100% sure if the non pivot side mount fits onto our Stock bracket, but it appears it's almost the exact same size. (my brat didn't come with that bracket, I use a bolt coming straight up out of the engine to push up the alternator). Wiring should be the same as the altima mod

For what year/model? 1987 brat doesn't show anything

I love his "disbelief" in electricity. Cracks me up every time

Been looking for a new rear axle for my brat, but can't find them anywhere. Anyone know where I can buy them, or are the fronts and rears the same?