comatosellama

By hack do you mean "sh*tty repairs done by a 14 year old that didn't know better"? If so, I think I'd win. Shouldn't have been allowed near my brat back then, lol.

That's what I was meaning in the original post

Finally getting around to the lift, was wondering what the angle should be for 6 inches to get 0 camber Also, has anyone ever made adjustable lower control arms for these? Like they do for the stis? Or does the radius arm make that impossible?

Rockers are gone, and a small hole in the driver's side floor, but the frame rails themselves are very sturdy. I just want enough so I can feel like I'm getting the structural strength back that it lost with the rockers leaving.

Anyone ever done this? I was thinking welding all of the lift blocks on both sides together using either some quarter wall 1x2 or Dom for connecting front to rear, and then a couple crossmembers (maybe some hdpe skids). Do you think this would strengthen it enough to make up for my lack of rockers/mildly messed up floor?

http://www.rx7club.com/old-school-other-rotary-63/little-project-i-like-call-gloria-gl-re-ea-922472/page2/ Same type of thing, with a wenkel

Looks like it was a tooth or two off on timing. Easily double power now vs before, extremely happy, makes me motivated to figure out whats up with all the horrible wiring

General transcript of video - when I floor it under ~2k, it falls to about 200rpm, sometimes it dies, sometimes it'll take about 2 seconds and then shoot up to redline. Lots of backfires, both when throttled, and when letting off.

Video of truck: Starts off stationary - at operating temp 0:10 - 0:30 then fwd 1st at 0:31 - 0:49 4wd lo first gear 0:50 into second last 10 seconds is 4wd lo 2nd gear, but going slow. Only speedo tach and thermometer work. I have oil pressure, and I'm not pushing 18v. I've done a new weber carb, fuel filters, plugs, plug wires, coil, and egr delete. Oil and filter are fresh These are the stock redline Weber subaru kit jets, with the short air filter, and a free flow (hollow cat, single muffler) exhaust Any ideas on what I should do next? This has been the problem my almost my entire time owning this thing, would be great to finally be able to floor it without killing it.

It's very simple. Wouldn't trust it on road. It's a Jeep CJ5 with an amc 401 in it. They just placed the brat body on, welded it on the frame rails, along with bolting it on in a not so safe way. There's no conventional body mounts like a truck. I'll take some pictures later.

Sadly, it's nowhere near running. Engine has been seized for like 15 years. I just bought it to keep the brat parts out of a junkyard, I figure someone's gonna need some windshieds or what not somewhere down the road

Still making these?

Also, I own this. 77 brat with an amc 401

Thought about e85 for fuel? It has a crazy octane level, or so I've heard.

I've seen an outback on a blazer with a buick 446 (somewhere around there). Spooled front and rear. Posted the ad here a while ago.

I'm doing the struts on my 87 brat and when I put them back together the "top hat"/strut mount will not turn. I've tried it dry and packed with grease. Is there a brearing or something thats supposed to go in between the strut mount and the top spring carrier? Or are you not able to turn them by hand like the ej struts

Fried the center diff on my impreza woods runner, need to weld that up now, gonna do the rear while I'm at it as well.

Looking for a wiring harness for stock ecu, that makes it so all I have to do is hook up a ignition relay for the ecu and fuel pump, and a relay for the starter. Would megasquirt or similar system be a better option? Looking to do a sjr style buggy but with a Waggy Dana 44 front and 14 bolt rear. 63 chevy leafs dual shackle rear, yota rear leafs up front.

Swapping the motor is the exact same amount of work, and depending on how good you are at wiring, possibly more.

The inners would work doing that, but not the outers iirc. I don't think any roos came with axles that had different interior/exterior spline counts. Another option is to split the trans, and install a front diff out of a new gen non sti, and put it back together.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for where the main power for the interior electrical, headlights, ect get their power from? PO did some weird wiring, that has now gone defunct. I have the fuel pump, and starter on their own relays. I want to find where I need to hook up a power line to get the rest of the systems to work (headlight, horn, interior lighting, turn signals). thanks a ton CL

How are you running the engine?

Need a adapter plate, same as for ej into the old gen, and you need to notch the trans x member holes. Driveshaft needs to be lengthened 55mm. Need to biuld custom cv's (ea inner cups, connected to ej rest of axle). Linkages are gonna take either fab work or the bravery to hack the floor pan some I know the main shifter ends up angled forward, nuetral on the dr will be where 3rd in on a signle. Speedo threads right in I believe. You will need a 3.90 rear diff as well. I remember seeing that someone got it done by Colorado component recylers (ccr on here) and it was about 3k. If you can do the wrenching yourself it should be cheaper. Edit: go with scott's list, he knows what he's doing

Turned out the problem was a non reman axle. I think the bearing cage fell apart because the cup spins, but not the axle, and creates a very bad grinding noise. When I went into 4wd I think the push from the welded rear diff made it so the front right wasn't engaged much. It still happened in 4wd but much more rare.

I have a rust bucket of a wrangler brat, is a little shotty in the fitment. Any idea if the front frame is all custom? seems to hug the unibody