plug and play auto trans for the 95 lego, all of them.

 

95 - 98 legacy L, brighton, LS - all ej22 cars

93 - 98 impreza all ej22 or ej18 cars  - L, LX, LS, LE, L+

and 90 - 91 legacy non turbo

 

the auto trans from an ej25 car 96 - 98 will work,

BUT ONLY if you use the matching rear diff.

 

the auto trans from a 92 - 94 lego will work,

BUT ONLY if you use the matching rear diff.

 

imprezas may be cheaper so be sure to look there.

on car-part.com, you will have to search each year and model separately.

this means your browser will have lots of tabs open.

Wow - thank you JohnC! that opens up a lot more options!

PS:

when talking to a parts yard about your need,

do not tell them you have a 95.

tell them you need the trans they have listed on car-part.com.

some yards will not sell you a 96 trans for a 95 car since their software tells them it does not fit.

and they do not want the headache of a return.

and they may void the warranty if you tell them it is going in a different year or model.

Thank you again, JohnC

 

the auto trans from an ej25 car 96 - 98 will work,

BUT ONLY if you use the matching rear diff.

 

in regards to this ^

 

so the trans from the 98 Foz could/would/should work, providing I swap out the rear diff as well...A little digging tells me that the 98 Foz automatic is a 4.44 final - correct?

 

How would this affect fuel mileage/cruising RPMs in the Legacy? guessing that RPMs would be little higher, resulting in slightly lower fuel mileage... ?

 

Seriously considering stripping the 98 Foz for parts - really dont have the time to mess with it anymore with new job and school... and since I wanted to do a Forester strut/spring swap on the Legacy anyway (it is in dire need of new struts), and use the bigger wheels/tires if they would fit - ready & handy parts car - altho, the tranny in the Foz is a complete unknown as far as condition/drivability goes...might still be better off to source a good used one of the appropriate final drive elsewhere....

 

sorry - kind of musing/mulling options over "out loud" here...

another thought on the Legacy - had forgotten about it until someone else posted a similar issue...

 

Previous owner mentioned that the "fuel tank" leaks if filled all the way - is this more than likely the "filler neck rusting out because of the plastic guard" problem?

underside of the car, in general, looks pretty darn good... and I have never really heard of the tank itself leaking/rusting out on these - seems it is the filler neck that is generally the problem...

 

so the trans from the 98 Foz could/would/should work, providing I

swap out the rear diff as well...A little digging tells me that the 98

Foz automatic is a 4.44 final - correct?

 

How would this affect fuel mileage/cruising RPMs in the Legacy?

guessing that RPMs would be little higher, resulting in slightly lower

fuel mileage... ?

the fozy trans is a 4.44 ratio.

and this will affect your fuel economy and ''power output''.

it will make your car ''quicker off the line''.

you can compensate for this by using the fozy wheels and tires. (and struts.)

the difference in ratio is almost the same as the difference in tire size.

 

but the larger tire size will mean you are driving faster than the speedo says, about 8% i think.

some have said it is not a noticeable difference, i don't know.

i'm just going from the math.

 

this speedo / odo error will also make it difficult to figure your true fuel economy.

but the error, what ever it is, will be consistent.

so once you learn what that is you can use that to adjust your speed and your MPG calculations.

 

and somewhere down the road, you could always swap in an outback instrument cluster and eliminate the error.

 

 

Previous owner mentioned that the "fuel tank" leaks if filled all the

way - is this more than likely the "filler neck rusting out because of

the plastic guard" problem?

 

usually it is the filler neck which is replaceable.

but there are some case of leaks on top of the tanks at the seams.

assuming the reports are correct.

WI, i guess you are in the rust belt?

 

if you remove the plastic cover, you will see the problem and likely locate the leak pretty quickly.

i repaired mine with JB Weld.

it worked great, but i sold the car a year later so i don't know how it is doing now.

but it was easier than replacing it and if it failed i could always replace it later.

and i shortened the cover so it was not underneath the filler neck.

Edited September 17, 201312 yr by johnceggleston

If you do tire size with the different final drive the speedometer discrepence basically cancels itself out.  But there won't be enough clearance to the stock rear struts to fit the larger forester tires without using the corresponding suspension.

Speedometer drive is geared to match FDR and tire size. Using forester size tires with the Forester trans will yield the proper speed reading.

thank you gentlemen for the insights.

 

Bratman - Wheels/tires would not get used without the corresponding suspension

 

Speedometer drive is geared to match FDR and tire size.

so this means that the outback (4.44) and lego L (4.11) speedos are the same?

 

i thought they were different,

but maybe i'm thinking GT vs. lego L.

 

96 lego L wagon, A/T, 4.11 with 24.2 inch diameter tires.

 

 

97 OBW , A/T, 4.44 with 26.3 inch diameter tires

 

Edited September 18, 201312 yr by johnceggleston

All the speedometers work on the same signal. They all use the same 8 pulse AC wave, not just Subaru, if it has a gear driven sensor it has the same signal.

The timing of the signal is what determines how high the needle goes.

What determines the timing is the ratio of the sensor drive gears.

GT's and outbacks got red needle guages, basic cars got white needle.  They are interchangable, I think there is a difference in the circuit board on the 140mph cluster speedo head, I've read a write up somewhere on how to make it work, but still interchange.

this is interesting, at car-part.com

for 96 only, starting in june, there is only one auto trans listed for cars with the ej25 engine.

this means that OBW, GT?, LSi all have the same ratio, and all have the same speedo gears.

i wonder if they all have the same speedo?

maybe they just said screw it for 96 and let the error in the speedo live.?

 

RE: software errors,

or maybe the software is just not very detailed for that year.

i have always wondered why they don't ask AT or MT when you search a 95 ej22 engine.?

typically one has EGR and one does not.

this must bee an error in the software design,

or the ECU (and subaru) does not care which you use    ????????

 

starting in 97, they list the outback, GT, and LSi separately.

(each of these models have different size tires.)

this sounds like the speedo gears are different.

Edited September 18, 201312 yr by johnceggleston

On swapping in the Forester struts/springs - will I need to change the tophats?

or can I use the Forester tophats & just swap the entire assembly? (< would make the swap so much easier)

direct bolt in, you will have some saggy butt syndrome though

direct bolt in, you will have some saggy butt syndrome though

 

What do you mean by "saggy butt syndrome"?

 

I realize that I - and my car - are both getting older, but I didnt think gravity had set in that heavily yet!

 

I thought I had a tranny today - called ahead, was told it was in stock - drove 3 hours to go pick it up - get there, pay for it, and wait......and the guy comes back out & says he cant find it! So basically, I wasted an entire day, and a full tank of gas for nothing!

Edited September 22, 201312 yr by heartless

On your wagon with just a straight Forester strut swap you'll end up getting a decent lift, but the front will sit slightly higher than the rear. Not enough to hinder performance in any way, but it is noticeable to look at. My sedan on Forester suspension sat roughly half an inch lower in the rear, the wagon being heavier would a little bit more "saggy"

ah, gotcha...so is there any way to correct this situation?

They make saggy butt spacers you put on top of the rear struts before putting them in. You can get them paranoidfabrications.com I actually have a set here. They go for about $25 shipped.

 

 

I thought I had a tranny today - called ahead, was told it was in stock - drove 3 hours to go pick it up - get there, pay for it, and wait......and the guy comes back out & says he cant find it! So basically, I wasted an entire day, and a full tank of gas for nothing!

DOH! X-/

This is the reason why if I have to drive anywhere to get parts (sometimes even just across town) I ask them to put hands on the part and make sure its actually physically there, not just "in stock" on the computer.

DOH! X-/

This is the reason why if I have to drive anywhere to get parts (sometimes even just across town) I ask them to put hands on the part and make sure its actually physically there, not just "in stock" on the computer.

 

Yeah, I know - I should have requested physical confirmation, but didnt - so partially my fault...and the woman behind the counter' "we have never run into this before" - yeah, right...

 

have a line on a couple of others - one with only 30K on it - also several hours drive away - and you can bet I WILL be insisting on them physically laying hands on it, and while they are doing so, they can put a sold tag on it with my name & phone # before I go driving after it!

Edited September 23, 201312 yr by heartless

much better luck transmission hunting this weekend!

 

scored a trans with only 30,511 miles on it - car was involved in a low speed rear-ending accident - suffered front end damage - the JY had intended to sell as a repairable, but it sat for several years, so they finally decided to part it out - my gain... i hope.