one (of course) rear diff ring gear bolt stripped.  the obvious solution is repair the threads, but what do the following "non thread repair" options look like, because I highly doubt i'm doing thread repair on this:

 

1. leave the stripped bolt out? this is where I'm leaning, it's my daily driver XT6 so i'm not too concerned.

2. leave two out - 180 degrees apart for balance?  i doubt balance here is critical concern.

3. leave it in and locktite the snot out of it.  ithis sounds like an awful option.

 

it already has locktite so i wonder if i'll even be able to tell which one is stripped....?

 

rather than standard 1.25 thread it's 1.00?  i doubt i'll buy that weirdo sized inserts i'll never use again.

I think that 3 should be dismissed out of hand.  Having a hardened steel jumping-jack bouncing around inside the diff sounds like no fun.

 

I think either options 1 or 2 would be acceptable.  I would probably opt for 1, as the radius from center is small (70 or 80 mms??), the mass around it is great and it is not "unsprung mass", subject to harmonics from a sprung mount.

 

Option 2 is probably fine, since you don't strike me as someone likely to try to do an AWD burn out.  The R160s were used in Datsun 240Zs back when BRE was racing them, so they probably have a lot of margin of safety in the strength department.

I think that 3 should be dismissed out of hand.  Having a hardened steel jumping-jack bouncing around inside the diff sounds like no fun.

 

I think either options 1 or 2 would be acceptable.  I would probably opt for 1, as the radius from center is small (70 or 80 mms??), the mass around it is great and it is not "unsprung mass", subject to harmonics from a sprung mount.

 

Option 2 is probably fine, since you don't strike me as someone likely to try to do an AWD burn out.  The R160s were used in Datsun 240Zs back when BRE was racing them, so they probably have a lot of margin of safety in the strength department.

 

thanks, i love hearing what i want to hear!

 

i'll take the one out and be done with it, i've ran enough uneven bolt patterns on rotating assemblies to think this doesn't matter and your unsprung whatchamaharmonic intertia stuff suggests the same. lol

 

*hopefully* i can figure out which one it is now that i left it in and the locktite has hardened.  that'll be the hard part. 

 

you are correct.  burnouts and drifting are things i don't know how to do. LOL

thanks, i love hearing what i want to hear!

 

i'll take the one out and be done with it, i've ran enough uneven bolt patterns on rotating assemblies to think this doesn't matter and your unsprung whatchamaharmonic intertia stuff suggests the same. lol

 

*hopefully* i can figure out which one it is now that i left it in and the locktite has hardened.  that'll be the hard part. 

 

you are correct.  burnouts and drifting are things i don't know how to do. LOL

I would go for option one, option two would also work but probably isn't necessary. I would pass on option 3, too risky.

Edited August 17, 201312 yr by Crazyeights

one bolt is likely what i'll go with but if anyone else has this come up...weld it?  

offroad folks weld their opens diffsso likewise may be able to weld the bolt in place?

slap it back together without.

 

If you have a vibration, easiest solution is to weld it in.  

id avoid welding it.  gears would probably have a heat treatment to make them wear longer, the heat may mess it up.  when you weld the carrier the ring gear is off (everytime I have seen someone do it, though i guess you dont have to.).  you just weld some of the the gears inside the carrier.

 

you could probably just put a few tacks in the bolt safely, but the same thing applies as number 3.  id just run without.

1 or 2 woudl both work, but really is it worth it wondering?

 

Just grab a diff outta a GL and slap it in. 

 

3.9 correct?  Dime a Dozen.  Or is it an LSD?

Just grab a diff outta a GL and slap it in. 

 

3.9 correct?  Dime a Dozen.  Or is it an LSD?

LSD

Edited August 18, 201312 yr by grossgary

A quick tack weld on the bolt head like mentioned above would also be a really good solution (and quite reversible). I think you could be quick enough to not worry about the heat.