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soobie_newbie67

i'm wanting to turbo my EJ22

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The turbo blocks are very hard to find, and i dont plan on using more than 10psi.  i've been reading around and people say the N/A block cant handle more than 12psi.  Sorry, no source, but if someone could back that up that'd be great.  Also, gonna buy a forged crank, Eagle con rods, Wiseco pistons, EJ25D heads.

 

I hate that i dont keep track of sources -.-

 

I read on another forum someone who built a turbo ej22 the exact same way i want too.  10psi boost, forged crank and rods, (dont know exactly what name brands) Ej25 heads, and it seemed to be working pretty good for him running the stock N/A pistons.  I guess if you use the low comp heads from a 96 EJ25D it lowers the compression good enough for boosting.  Of course, he had only put 10k miles on it since building it so i wouldnt know anything about the reliability of this build ATM.  Doesnt help i cant find it now.  Sorry, i fail at life.

 

I'd like to reach 200 hp.  Whats the possibility of reaching this goal?

 

Sorry i dont keep track of sources.  ADHD.  I never thought i'd ever need to read em again xD

 

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You already have a forged crank in your motor, came from subaru that way.  Change the pistons to a set from an ej22t or do a ej25d head swap to lower compression.  Some sort of fuel management will be needed.  The boost won't kill it, the block can hande most boost than you'll probably ever end up throwing at it.  The rods are the same as ej22t as well, don't bother changing them.  The best upgrade you could possibly do is a stand alone management and a good tune.  Detonation ends most na-t swaps before overboosting does. 

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Ok.  So should i go standalone ECU?  Maybe a Megasquirt?  A programable ecu would be direct fit and accessable through the OBDII connector right?  I dont wanna have to do any wiring, but if i have to do a little whatever.  I'm really good at electronics and wiring and whatnot, i just dont like doing it xD

 

Oh.  and could someone recommend a turbo?  i was thinking of using a TDO4 turbo, but apparently they have different numbers like TDO4L and TOD4HL. 

Edited by soobie_newbie67

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for our era cars, unfortunately, there is no easy option for tuning, stock ecu cannot be flashed, or chipped or otherwise effectively manipulated the way it needs to be for tuning a turbo. you absolutely must be able to adjust timing to safely run a decent amount of boost. for no more than 7-10 psi you could get by with an fmu, do a little research to see what ratio would be best, and probably a better fuel pump, walbro or sti seem to be popular. The td04l I believe is the stock 2.0 wrx turbo, and with a boost controller would be a good match for the ej22.

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ok so i have a 1997 subaru impreza l ej22 and i also want to turbo it and dont really intend to go above 9 psi. ive checked out andys auto sport website for compatibale turbo kits and i found only the one made by blitz but it is for a ej20 engine. i dont really know what else to do because i wanna keep the car but dont have the money for an engine swap and the turbo. any advice/tips that could shed some light here?

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Ok. I dont wanna steer this too far out of proportion (like its actually going somewhere with only 2 others contributing xD)  but i need to ask a serious question; or more or less ask: Whats the deal on the Phase 2 ej25?  I have a phase 2 short block that i tore apart and i like the idea of the bigger rods, but that doesnt necessarily mean they are stronger.  So, what of em?  if they are stronger i was questioning building a turbo ej25 using the phase 2 block with the 96 low comp heads and a really good head gasket.  Would that be as reliable as going the 2.2 route?

 

Can i put the bigger crank and rods from the 2.5 in the 2.2 block???

Edited by soobie_newbie67

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The crankyou can do, bbut may require machine work. The rods have the same journal size if that's what you're referring to being bigger about them. Unless you mean where the ej251 rods and physically longer than ej22. I mean yeah you could use the stuff but you'd be looking at 5-800 for custom pistons for the stroker.

 

The ej251 is 10:1 compression with 50cc heads stock. The 96 heads are reported to be either 50cc or 53cc in various places of the internet, so they won't really do anything to get you into boost friendly compression.

 

What you could do is run a set of STi rods and pistons in the ej251 with those 96 heads for an 8.3:1 compression engine.

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no. the rod journals are bigger in diameter with bigger bearings than my 96 ej25 short block. tripped me out to the point where I made a thread about it and I was told its cause its a phase 2 ej25. also the fact that the thrust bearing is #5

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Those are both well known, the only ej to get the small 48mm rod journal was the 96-98 ej25d, 99s are phase 2 block crank and rods with phase 1 pistons attached to them. And all phase 2 engines are #5 thrust instead of #3 of phase 1.

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alright. sweet. so now that we are on the same page I ask this: does the phase II 2.5 have a stronger bottom end having bigger rods? would it be a good candidate for my turbo project or should I stick with the 2.2 short block?

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Better than an ej25d, yes. Better than an ej22, my opinion is no. The ej251 is 10:1 compression stock, and the ej22e is 9.5-9.7:1 depending on year.

 

As far as a hybrid build goes, if you were to use 97-99 ej25d heads on the 22e the compression would be 9.1-9.3:1. But 25d heads on a 251 raise the compression to 10.4:1.

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If you mean the 22e with 251 heads, 8.7:1. But you run into more issues doing that in a phase 1 car than its worth.

Edited by 86BRATMAN

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Yeah, a 91-94 turbo legacy crossmember is a direct bolt in replacement for yours, you can also use 02-05ish wrx but will have to change the lower control arm bushing to wrx or use washers to shim yours.

 

One can cut the existing crossmember to clear as well, but it should be reinforced afterward.

 

another alternative is a custom up pipe to mate to the stock manifold like the old 2.5RS turbo kits did.

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You will get a more accurate EGT reading if it is before the turbo,after the turbo is typically 100-400*+ cooler than before turbo depending on how hard your running it.If your serious a post turbo EGT is only good for letting you know when the turbo has cooled down enough to shut it down.Better would be pre-turbo in the tube for #3 cylinder because it is furthest from the water pump and has the least tube to travel to the turbo so gasses will be hottest in it.You can put the probe in the collector before the turbo but then its just an average of warm(1),damn hot(3),warm(2),and hot(4). Just make sure you get a GOOD probe so it wont break off into the turbo.

Edited by Uberoo

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