so I just did a t belt job on my nieces 07 impreza....that to some of you for the assistance

 

so its 11:30 PM and Im thinking...how will I tighten the crank bolt?

The older subys had that open port at the top back of engine in order to catch onto something and lock the engine

 

What about this vintage?

thanks

 

 

put socket on breaker bar put it on the bolt and bump the starter while pressing down the tq from the starter will tighten it 

Edited September 21, 201312 yr by bonvo

Models without a turbo you can put a tapered pin punch in the passenger side of the bell housing half way down there is a threaded hole not being used.  Sometimes newer models have o2 sensor wiring or something around there but its usually wide open.  

 

My 2nd choice is the factory crank pulley holder tool.

 

3rd would be chain wrench wrapped around an old accessory belt.  

 

Last would be the starter trick.  Its just not very calculated how much torque is being applied to the bolt and I like the ability to get it off again someday.  

 

Torque to 130 ft pounds.

put socket on breaker bar put it on the bolt and bump the starter while pressing down the tq from the starter will tighten it 

What am I missing here?  I've used the starter bump method to loosen a crank bolt--but I fail to see how you can use that torque to tighten one!

if manual trans put in 5th with parking brake on.

I have done many these since my first EJ22 in 1990. At that time IIRC, the torque was on 80 ft lbs.

Since then I have  always used the starter to loosen, and if a manual, in gear to tighten. Automatics, I have used a screwdriver in the opening by the throttle body..... that is until I BENT a flex plate a few years ago. That turned into a LONGER JOB than just a timing belt..

 

So a few years ago I purchased a Grimspeed Pulley tool: http://www.amazon.com/Grimmspeed-Crank-Pulley-Removal-Install/dp/B0054RG6B6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1379761332&sr=8-2&keywords=subaru+crank+pulley+tool

 

I have used it over a dozen times since  on BOTH Autos and manuals. With a breaker bar sitting on the drivers side frame rail, the pulley doesn't move, and torqueing to 140 ft lbs is SOOO EASY. It has easily paid for itself. I said I also use it on manuals because, unlike putting it in gear with the brake on, there is NO drivetrain play, just a quick easy CLICK.

 

And unlike a strap or chain wrench, there is no additional stress on the damper pulley rubber to lead to a failure where the pulley separates and has to be replaced in the future.

 

My $.02 and experiences.

Edited September 21, 201312 yr by ferret

Yes, I use the "5th gear with brake applied" method on manual tranny cars. 

 

But both bonvo and ShawnW seem to be saying there's a "starter bump trick" to tighten the crank pulley bolt.  If there is, I'd like to know how it works!

 

BTW, that Grimspeed tool looks awesome ferret.

Starter can't be used to tighten the crank bolt. Unless you have some weird starter that works backwards.

 

On automagics I put a 1/4" Allen key in the hole in the side of the bellhousing and jam the flex plate. (There's one halfway down either side)

Not sure if the newer models have the hole in the bellhousing though.

There should still be a removeable cover on the bellhousing in the top corner where you can jam a prybar or big screwdriver. Worst comes to worst, pull the starter out and put a prybar in through the starter hole.

 

Torque the crank bolt to something like 130 ft lbs, otherwise it may come loose.

Yeah make sure the keyway is on correctly too. When I had my timing belt done by my mechanic

he had his flunky brother in law do it, and about a month later the damn pulley unloosened and

it was sheer luck (and AAA) that got it back to his shop so he could replace it.