Questions?

 

I have 2 2005 outback llbean models with the 3.0 engine.  The inner cv boots are right above the catalytic converter and constantly "cooks" the inner cv boots; especially in stop and go traffic.

 

Any ideas and remedies?

 

Anyone made a shield that attaches to the engine?

What about wraping the converter with the same material that I see motorcycle exhaust pipes have done.   Would this change/harm/cause any problems with the O2 sensor etc?

 

Would appreciate any help suggestions, contacts, web sites to help with this problem.

 

Thanks

 

gerald in NC

How long did the factory boots last?

I have used a silicone CV boot from Dorman in a similar situation (CV boot near the turbo downpipe) and it has held up remarkably well.

The 2005 3.0 model comes with 5EAT and has tri-lobal inner joints. Stock EPDM boot seems to be the best you can find.

Edited November 6, 201312 yr by avk

The 2005 3.0 model comes with 5EAT and tri-lobal inner joints. Stock EPDM boot seems to be the best you can find.

 

If an exact fit boot can't be found, there are the "universal" type, where it has various diameters you can cut down; silicone is very stretchy as well.  I imagine one could be found that would work.

I would be interested in that as well. They way it is, the inboard CV housing is not round and a universal boot would require a tri-lobal bushing. There has to be a cross-application that fits, but that hasn't been documented yet.

Edited November 6, 201312 yr by avk

I see, the tripod boots I've seen are still round on the inside.  Maybe the old boot could be cut down and used as a bushing.

IMaybe the old boot could be cut down and used as a bushing.

that's how i've seen it done on other manufacturers with these "non-round" cups.  use the original as a bushing, slide the new boot over top.

Thanks,  

I use the OEM cv boots, but traffic driving still cooks the boots.

 

I was hoping for a method to sheld the boots from the heat given off by the cat located just below the inner cv boot.  

 

I have idea's of fabricating a shield from aluminum with fiberglass sandwiched between.  Attach this to the engine bolt just above that would create a barrier between

the boot and cat.   When the engine is hot and the car stopped; heat from the cat cooks the cv boot and shortens it's life.

 

Was hoping somone had already developed a solution.

 

Thanks for any and all input.

 

Monk50

i've seen it for other applications and it works...but i've not seen it done for a Subaru exhaust.

Thanks,  

I use the OEM cv boots, but traffic driving still cooks the boots.

 

I was hoping for a method to sheld the boots from the heat given off by the cat located just below the inner cv boot.  

 

I have idea's of fabricating a shield from aluminum with fiberglass sandwiched between.  Attach this to the engine bolt just above that would create a barrier between

the boot and cat.   When the engine is hot and the car stopped; heat from the cat cooks the cv boot and shortens it's life.

 

Was hoping somone had already developed a solution.

 

Thanks for any and all input.

 

Monk50

 

Do you have a lift or any spacer on your suspension?  It could be the extra angle causing the tear....not the heat.  I've never seen a H6 legacy with boot problems......not any more than any other Subaru.....I mean, the Cat's aren't any closer to the axles than they are on 4cyls......just that they are on both sides...not just the passenger.  On turbo models the exhaust is even closer.

 

I just feel like there is something else we are missing in the picture here.

Car is completely stock.  

Think I am going to wrap the cat directly under the cv boot and see how that works.

 

Monk50

This has always been an issue for Suabru had to reoplace the inner boot on my '99 Legacy L wagon with EJ22 casue the cat cooked it to death at 60k.  Now my '03 Legacy GT seadn with EJ25 did the same thing at 90k.

So the dealer said I can replace with a factory remanufactured axle. for $213 is that the going rate for a remaned one?  Any online sources?

So the dealer said I can replace with a factory remanufactured axle. for $213 is that the going rate for a remaned one?  Any online sources?

 

really bad idea. keep your OEM axle as long as you can.  remanned axles are notoriously inferior.  you'd be throwing away a perfectly good axle for a lesser quality product.

 

if you're unsure whether to believe me or not simply google or search any subaru forum about aftermarket axles, they're awful, even from Subaru. 

 

here's the best process for avoiding axle debacles and issues:

 

1. reboot OEM axles

2. use Subaru boots - aftermarkets have shorter lifespans, particularly the inner boots by the exhaust heat

3. if you must replace an axle for some reason buy a used OEM axle for $25-$33 and reboot it www.car-part.com

Thanks for info, will clean and repack and replace with OEM boot.

Thanks,  

I use the OEM cv boots, but traffic driving still cooks the boots.

 

I was hoping for a method to sheld the boots from the heat given off by the cat located just below the inner cv boot.  

 

I have idea's of fabricating a shield from aluminum with fiberglass sandwiched between.  Attach this to the engine bolt just above that would create a barrier between

the boot and cat.   When the engine is hot and the car stopped; heat from the cat cooks the cv boot and shortens it's life.

 

Was hoping somone had already developed a solution.

 

Thanks for any and all input.

 

Monk50

I have used an aluminum sheet bent to fit and secured with sheet screws. Large dryer clamps would work for this. If the axle is not yet popping and clicking severely, re boot it as the quality with remans is sometimes worse then the existing axle

Can I clean the inner joint, re-pack it and reboot it without taking it completly out of the car?

 

Can I clean the inner joint, re-pack it and reboot it without taking it completly out of the car?

 

Yes. 

 

But it's easier to remove it, and you have to unbolt the strut/knuckle bolts to tip the wheel out anyhow.  Might as well take off the big 32mm axle nut and slide it out.

 

Old EA stuff I would leave it cause pressing the axle in/out of the bearings can be tough, and even damage the bearings.  But EJ stuff I'd just pull it all the way out and do it on the bench.

Ok, can I seperate the inner fron the outer cv to get the new boot on the inner?

Yes once you unclip the boot and slide it down, there is a clip around the inner lip of the cup (inner end cup)

 

Slip out the ring, and the jjoint will slide out.  A snap ring holds the inner race to the shaft, remove it, and the boots can slide off the axle....then reassemble in reverse order.

Yes once you unclip the boot and slide it down, there is a clip around the inner lip of the cup (inner end cup)

 

Slip out the ring, and the jjoint will slide out.  A snap ring holds the inner race to the shaft, remove it, and the boots can slide off the axle....then reassemble in reverse order.

  Nice so I can do this peice mail, this would require just, brake cleaner, CV greese and and a new OEM boot.

And clamps

Well just pulled the cracked boot back and the greese is white and milky.  So thinking moisture got in there, guessing that likly comprimised the joint.  Also noticed the seals where the axle goes into the front diff are weeping. Guessing it would be easy to replace that while i have the axle out. Guess i shoudl return the stuff I bought to repack and re boot the axle thats in there.

I had this problem with my 2000 OBW 2.5; front axles were replaced 5 years ago and were doing fine but as soon as I replaced the entire exhaust system the inner boot on the passenger side, which is directly above the cat, ruptured.  I'm convinced it is because the replacement cat does not have a heat shield.  Would love to see pictures of the heat shields that other posters have fabricated.