2002 Outback has been running like a trooper through this weather, so I'm at a loss and need help to figure out what happened and what to fix.

 

It was low on gas the other morning but not lower than it's ever been, it started up no problem and idled for a minute then sputtered and stopped. Would not turn over again only cranked. I thought it was out of gas, so I put at least two gallons in, tried again, same thing. I removed plug closest to driver (not sure what number) to check for fuel and plug was wet with gas so that's not the problem, Hooked plug to wire, cranked and looked for spark, no spark, but the odd thing was that it fired once on that crank. Replaced plug this morning and it cranks worse than before. Need some guidance here y'all, this is the only car that can climb my hill with all this snow!

check engine light? 

have the code read and tell us what it is.

 

no spark on one plug or all of them?

 

no spark:
1.  igniter

2.  coil pack

3.  wires

4.  plugs

5.  cam or crank sensor

 

1 & 2 don't fail that often and new prices are atrocious - replace with used

3 & 4 should be NGK OEM plugs and OEM or high quality wires, that engine isn't very forgiving otherwise.

 

maybe crank and cam sensors can cause a no spark condition as well - replace with used as they rarely fail.  i'd mail you both for $10.

Thanks, CEL has been on and off for a while - last time I got it read it give an emissions code and running rich code (thought it was cad so saving up to replace) it will be a couple days before I can get someone to read it again, wish I'd gotten a scanner when I wanted to last. 

 

Just checked the one plug so not sure, will check the rest for spark. It needs new plugs and wires so I'll just replace those and maybe get lucky. At least I'll narrow it down until I can get the code pulled.

If the plug was still wet you may not see a spark because it will just short to the plug housing through the liquid.

 

Dry the plugs with brake cleaner before checking for spark.

 

 

If the plugs are wet that may mean the engine is getting flooded with too much fuel. Hold the gas pedal to the floor for a few seconds while cranking. The ECU will not pulse the injectors while the pedal is on the floor, to clear fuel from the cylinders.

I changed the plugs and wires, all were wet with gas. Cranked again and held petal to the floor - it backfired but will not turn over.

 

I think I'll replace the engine temp coolant sens since it has been running rich but not sure if that is the problem either. Does any of this new info help lead to a diagnosis?

Edited February 12, 201412 yr by MountainGoat

Check to see if it has slipped timing.

 

O.

Update but no resolution. 

 

Changed crank pos. sensor. Waiting on code reader to pull those still. Inspected timing belt, all teeth are intact. I do not have a timing light anymore (lost in a move) so is there a way to check timing w/o this tool? When I crank I get no movement on tach and I have tried to unplug cam sensor (read where that might help diagnose faulty one) with no change in crank/non-fire. 

 

Can anyone tell me how to check coil? Sorry guys, I've looked around for these answers and having bad luck as you can see!

Best way to check coil is to pull a wire off one of the plugs, stick a new plug in it and ground it on the engine/ body somewhere you can see while its cranking and look for spark in the plug.

 

Slipped cam timing can cause no-spark, and much worse.

Probably should check timing marks on crank and cams. Even if the belt looks OK, the tensioner used on that engine is known to fail and allow the belt to skip.

Timing belt stop and check

Are we talking removing covers and all that junk in front of covers to check timing marks and counting teeth or is there an easier way?

You said was turning over funny = timing belt  can pull ds cover and look inside but should be checked

Are we talking removing covers and all that junk in front of covers to check timing marks and counting teeth or is there an easier way?

 

Yes pull covers but you can simply align all the marks on Cam/Crank to check.....no need to count teeth.

 

Start with pulling the outer cover on the drivers, and the rubber plug on the passenger (use a dental mirror to see in there) and check if both Cams are timed toghether.  If they aren't.......bingo.  If they are.....then pop the 22 mm bolt out of the crank pulley and see if the keyway is directly down.  If not......bingo.

 

Do not try to start it again until you verify the timing belt is correct/intact.

What is best way to get DS mark at top so I can check PS through peephole? 

.....then pop the 22 mm bolt out of the crank pulley and see if the keyway is directly down.  If not......bingo.

 

 

By "pop" I hope you mean this to be a fairly easy removal of the 22mm bolt and then remove cover, inspect for timing mark alignment, replace cover install pulley, 22mm bolt and torque to what? 

What is best way to get DS mark at top so I can check PS through peephole?

Turn the crank until the drivers side lines up.

Remember to turn clockwise (viewed from the front).

 

"Pop" isn't quite right.

The crank pulley bolt is usually pretty tight. Factory torque spec is something like 130 ft lbs.

for a manual trans car block the wheels, set the park brake and put the trans in 5th gear to hold the crank while loosening/tightening the bolt.

For auto trans pull the inspection hole cover out of the bellhousing back by the PCV hose and put a big prybar or screwdriver in the flexplate.

Or find the small holes in the sides of the bell housing and stick a screwdriver or large Hex key through into the holes in the flexplate.

Thanks guys for all the help. I got the cover off and discovered that the belt must have jumped. Crank mark is at TDC and both cams are at 1:00.... this stinks.

had one two days ago the cogged gear came right out and hit the car behind was a 80 year old lady scared her bad and 16 bent valves dead on the freeway so you are lucky !