SLTsubi Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Hey guys. Yesterday I was driving up a dirt road in my 91 loyale when a 'plug' or something burst on the left side of the radiator. So, it's on the opposite side of the radiator cap. It is about in the middle on the side, and I see there are two similar holes on the other side where the cap is and they have hoses that are capped coming out of them. my question is, am I able to buy a part that screws into the hole (hose with a cap on them) or do I need a whole new radiator? What is the hole there for? Obviously something was fastened in the hole before and it burst out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Is your radiator plastic with brass or aluminum, or all brass? Is it similar to this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallonX Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Almost sounds like it spit the electric cooling fan sensor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Almost sounds like it spit the electric cooling fan sensor Agreed. If it has plastic tanks there isn't much can be done to repair it either. JB Weld but that's a maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLTsubi Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 It's all brass. Obviously after this burst it wouldn't hold coolant, it's directly on the side of the radiator right in the middle. So, nothing can be done ? New radiator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 It's all brass. Obviously after this burst it wouldn't hold coolant, it's directly on the side of the radiator right in the middle. So, nothing can be done ? New radiator? A radiator shop might be able to solder in a new bung. I have a barely used one for a Loyale(22" between the bottom pins) in Subaru Parts. Where is Slt, CA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLTsubi Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 No plastic tanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLTsubi Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 South Lake Tahoe. What would a barely used one run? I'm being told $150 up here, might as well get a new one rather than having this one repaired, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 (edited) No plastic tanks The one I have listed is all brass. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145725-ea82-spring-clean/ Edited May 13, 2014 by czny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLTsubi Posted May 13, 2014 Author Share Posted May 13, 2014 Thanks czny , I dm'd you. Does someone have a link to a radiator install thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elgigante Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Its easy Remove the electric fan. 2bolts on top, 2 on bottom. Assuming you have no coolant already disconnect the hoses. Put new rad in along with sensor. Fill with coolant and bleed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Rather than "bleed" the radiator.... try burping the radiator. Google that and you will find multiple threads on the usmb site. Might want to replace the radiator hoses - You can kind of check them by squeezing them for softness. You want a 'firm' hose. Wouldn't hurt to install a factory thermostat... summer is near. Very important that your cooling system is in top shape. Keep an eye on the waterpump for 'weeping' fluid. If the hole was threaded... you may be able to find a plug with matching threads at a nut/bolt shop like Fastenal or maybe Napa. Good luck... and watch out for those dirt roads ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suprjohn Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 It wouldn't just be a plug for the AT cooler would it? My new read from rock auto had a threaded plug at that location... John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 That 'plug' was leaking on my boy's '85 wagon. A little Teflon tape cured the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLTsubi Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 So my buddy who owns an auto shop is saying he needs the manufacturer date because there are 2 radiators for 1991 loyale, and the manufacturers label is unreadable, does anyone know the difference between the 2? The one in there currently is all brass.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 manuf date of the vehicle should be in the driver door jamb. If unreadable, should clean up with some alcohol.I would think the vin# would be more important than the manuf date. Just because a Loyale was built in 12/90 or 02/91 does not indicate if it had AC or AT or turbo or transmission cooler.... Well maybe there could have been a design change that was date specific. But you could get the manuf date from the dealer if you give them the vin#. Can't you find a plug for the hole... or do you suspect that the radiator is shot? And need new one? Personally, I would clean the innards, find a plug and go with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TallonX Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 There's a single row aluminum core plastic tanks and a double row copper core brass tanks available for our EA82s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 (edited) The radiators for that year all have the same overall dimensions to fit the front end. If you have a manual transmission & no A/C, then a single row is just fine. If you have a manual transmission & A/C, then a single row is probably enough unless you're towing in a desert or up hills. If you have an automatic transmission & A/C then a dual row radiator might be needed. Just my $.02 Edited May 14, 2014 by czny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLTsubi Posted May 15, 2014 Author Share Posted May 15, 2014 Czny, I have a manual and a/c I don't use, will the radiator you have for sale work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 (edited) Czny, I have a manual and a/c I don't use, will the radiator you have for sale work? I don't see why not. Already has the plugs & thermo-switch in it. There is nothing wrong with this radiator....I luckily found a PNP dual row brass & had it cleaned for myself because I intend to add A/C & perhaps tow with my GL wagon. Edited May 15, 2014 by czny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLTsubi Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Hey guys, just wanted to update with the resolution. So I pulled the radiator And I was able to remove the plug which had burst from the threaded hole. Apparently these plugs are for AT sensors and such, which I obviously don't have. So there are a bunch of extra plug holes on the radiator that are probably more prone to bursting. So I brought another plug from my radiator to the shop and was able to find a threaded plug with the same dimension. Just plugged up the hole with a new plug and voila, good as new. Didn't have to drop the dough on a new radiator. Thanks for your help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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