Working on a 97 Impreza and in the middle of changing the axle.  The last time someone did an axle job they deformed (somehow) the retaining pin.  It took some time but was able to get most of it out.  When I gave it a good yank it came free but I ended up pulling a six inch gear shaft out of the differential along with the axle (driver side).

 

I got the rest of the pin out but a little concerned about the differential shaft.  Anything magical about reinstalling that I should be aware of?

 

thanks-

well, there is a slim chance of a couple things going wrong(circlip jamming or seal being cut) but, usually, it's just a matter of seating it back in so the 'circlip' on the end snaps into place.

 

someone probably had the cup 180 degrees out from the stub axle. The have odd numbers of splines and a normal axle pin would SEVERELY jam going thru there!

Edited July 27, 201411 yr by 1 Lucky Texan

the stubby shaft just pops back into the transmission assuming the circlip is still dangling on one end.

 

like he just said the roll pin only installs one way - look at the peaks and valleys of the grooves - the hole on one side has a peak going through it and the other side has a valley going through it - line up the axle holes accordingly.

Thanks guys.  Stubby shaft popped right back in.  Getting the axles back in this week.  Have a couple other questions for you:

 

1.  Doing the timing belt so want to change the cam seals/O-rings.  Heard the sprockets are hard to remove.  Do you break them loose before removing the old belt or just squeeze and impact gun in there?

 

2.  When re-sealing the oil pump, what sealant do you use for the screws and pump mating surface?

1.  I've always been able to break the cam sprockets loose with the old belt in place and tranny in 5th gear.

 

2.  For the oil pump, check the phillips head screws on the back of the circular backing plate--if any are loose loctite them. 

For the mating surface to the engine block install a new o-ring and a neat, even bead of anaerobic or Ultra-grey sealant.  Don't overdo the sealant--you don't want bits of RTV breaking off and getting in the oil.  Haynes manual has a drawing of the bead pattern.

 

Good luck.

Best to use a Cam holder tool to hold the pulley while crackin the nut.

 

Relying on the belt to hold it can be iffy......espescially for the reassmebly torque down.

 

"the Right Stuff" sealant is far superior to ultra grey.

do you guys pull the plugs to do all the rotating/alignment of the crank?

I ussually don't pull plugs unless changing them or doing a comp test/leakdown.