While taking off the passenger head, the center bolt was stuck on there like no other. I got the bolt unscrewed and the head off (didnt damage the block threads thank goodness), but the bolt is stuck inside the head. It rotates both directions but wont come out. Any suggestions to get it out? And should i replace that bolt or clean it up really well once i get it out?

Vise grips, pb blaster (maybe, I've never done that so i don't know where it could end up), and yes, throw that bolt out, and re-tap the hole thoroughly. Is the engine out of the car? If not try taking it out and playing with the bolt

Personally i'd probably use a rubber mallet to get it started and maybe a punch to drive the bolt through. I wouldn't force it to much, but It's just grime and corrosion on the bolt itself. As mentioned, PB blaster or any penetrating oil would help.

Edited August 18, 201411 yr by Ibreakstuff

Engine is out. Head is off. I have been using pb blaster and working it in and out with a hammer. But once the threads get almost level with the head face it doesnt go any further. Will try using a punch to persuade it some more.

Why not just cut off the head of the bolt, and slide it out the side with no threads..?

You are going to have to ream the bolt hole out, so that the next bolt can be inserted, so you might as well drive that one out and use the threads to do the reaming.

For fair warning, do your best to not mangle your current bolt.

Buying new bolts is difficult and good luck finding an 11x1.1.25 bolt anywhere but custom made.

Deep creep by seafoam is an incredible cleaner and rust remover and a great penetrating oil.

If you have a drill and a socket adapter, you can spin the bolt at high speed while keeping it coated in a rust killer to loosen up the gunk.

And if it still won't come out, use a piece of sheetmetal to push the bolt out while spinning it with the drill.

That should minimize any damage to the bolt and the head.

Just don't get too crazy with the drill...

 

Twitch

There are lots of cylinder head bolts available at the junk yard.  

Got it out using pb blaster to loosen the corrosion, constantly rotating it with a socket, and i used a punch to drive it out when i got the threads level with the head face.

Replacing the bolt is the least of your worries... they are still available new from the Subaru dealership for around $2.00.

Replacing the bolt is the least of your worries... they are still available new from the Subaru dealership for around $2.00.

 

If your dealer parts guy can find the part number

 

Twitch

If your dealer parts guy can find the part number

 

Twitch

Head Bolt - Long 800211050

Head Bolt - Short 800211060

Head Bolt Washer 803011070

if replacing is an option, you generally should always use new bolts for anything with a sensitive torque requirement.  most bolts do have a torque requirement even though we don't bother with them, but head bolts are some that I would always replace if possible.  they are designed to stretch a certain amount when you torque them and they never stretch the same again after that.

 

this is a general engine repair philosophy, not something Subaru specific.

if replacing is an option, you generally should always use new bolts for anything with a sensitive torque requirement.  most bolts do have a torque requirement even though we don't bother with them, but head bolts are some that I would always replace if possible.  they are designed to stretch a certain amount when you torque them and they never stretch the same again after that.

 

this is a general engine repair philosophy, not something Subaru specific.

 

Incorrect, the EA82 head bolts are NOT torque to yield.. zero plastic transformation. They do not stretch and can be reused if they are not damaged. You should clean the threads and use oil or a proper fastener assembly lube on the threads and both sides of the washer when torquing.

 

Edited August 18, 201411 yr by Ibreakstuff

I thought, technically speaking, all threads on all bolts stretch whole you are tightening them....

I thought, technically speaking, all threads on all bolts stretch whole you are tightening them....

 

Bolts are elastic, every fastener has an elastic limit or its yield point. When a fastener is loaded past its yield point, some of the elasticity is permanently lost. But if not torqued to yield and the load on a fastener is released, the fastener will spring back to its original length.

 

Our head bolts are not torque to yield, so they are not reaching the point of plastic transformation unless you are over torquing them considerably.

 

Bolts are elastic, every fastener has an elastic limit or its yield point. When a fastener is loaded past its yield point, some of the elasticity is permanently lost. But if not torqued to yield and the load on a fastener is released, the fastener will spring back to its original length.

 

Our head bolts are not torque to yield, so they are not reaching the point of plastic transformation unless you are over torquing them considerably.

 

Oh how I am enjoying the irony of your username and posting about thread bolts failing...

 

Twitch

Edited August 18, 201411 yr by Twitch de la Brat

Lol!

 

Oh how I am enjoying the irony of your username and posting about thread bolts failing...

 

Twitch

That was a good explanation though, ibreakstuff, thank you.

Oh how I am enjoying the irony of your username and posting about thread bolts failing...

 

Twitch

 

My whole life revolves around the same irony lol. Maybe when I am older it will change to Ifixstuff, but I'm still learning new ways to break stuff.

 

Lol!

 

 

That was a good explanation though, ibreakstuff, thank you.

 

No problem! It actually hurts my redneck soul to use so many big words. I think all this california book learning is getting to me.