September 30, 201411 yr I just bought a 81 GL 2 door 2 wheel dr. The headlights and running lights don't work. I bought a new headlight relay, I can't find the old one. I'm looking under dash by steering wheel. Parts guy said its behind instrument cluster, that I had to pull the dash???
October 1, 201411 yr Not sure about the '81, but there should be two of them just to the left of the steering collum. Round and silver. No need to pull the dash. I doubt it's the relays anyways.
October 1, 201411 yr Author If its not the relay, any ideas? I have the knee panel off there aren't any relays to the left or right of steering col..
October 1, 201411 yr If its not fuse then It could be the switch itself or a broken wire not sending the signal to the relays.
October 1, 201411 yr Look for 2 plastic 4 pin connectors (like something that something would plug into) hanging or tucked in a bit. Maybe someone already pulled the relays. I can take some pics tomorrow of what you should be looking for. Mine is an '84 but shouldn't be too different.
October 1, 201411 yr Author I bought the car from the grandson of original owner. The car hasn't been messed with. They have been neighbors for 30 years. I have a new relay to compare and I just can't find the original relay. The parts people have been in business for many years, its an old time parts store. Not a box store where they have no idea how to open the hood. All fuses are good. Thank you for your help. Edited October 1, 201411 yr by leorob
October 1, 201411 yr Author That looks just like the new one I have but I can't find the original one. I'm thinking the parts guy is right and I'm going to have to pull the instrument cluster. I'm going to the library and see if they have a manual. Thanks again.
October 1, 201411 yr Good grief LeoRod, you're not listening and not looking. Jonas posted a pic clearly displaying the relays as if they were two squirrel nuts. Nice one, Jonas. To make things a bit easier, try pulling out the front seat. It's like 4 bolts and will give you plenty of room to lay on your back and put you legs up on the back seat. I have actually taken a nap like that. On the ea82's, I think I loosen the screws holding the fuse box up... just to make it easier to get at the relays. Disconnect your battery negative first.. Or... go to the library... I promise, it won't make you smarter.
October 1, 201411 yr Maybe if you posted a pic of what you are looking at we could help more. "Squirrel nuts" made me laugh!
October 2, 201411 yr Author You guys give me a break, I didn't just fall off a turnip wagon. My first car was a 1950 Desoto. I was a truck mechanic in the Marine Corps. I've been working on cars for 50 plus years. I have a shop in my backyard with a car hoist etc. etc.. If I tell you the relays aren't in sight they are not in sight. The parts guy said his book says they are behind the instrument cluster and so they must be there. I was hoping the parts guy was wrong and maybe someone here had 1st hand knowledge. I'll pull the instrument cluster and let you know.
October 2, 201411 yr I think you'll find those 'nut' items shown previously are the Turn signal & Flasher units ... As to the main headlight relay - I'm pretty sure most of the earlier EA71/81 models never had them, they just ran off the head light switch - see wiring diagram ... ( Will post here when I find it ) Add : http://www.ftp.kritical-it.com/Subaru%20Brumby,%20Leone,%20L-series%20Workshop%20Manual.pdf Edit : Warning...! large file ... !Take a gander at the wiring for your model & you'll see what I mean ... Hence the need to 'add' a relay to sort overheating issues with the switch ... Add : here is example of adding a relay for spotties : More info can be found here : http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24558&highlight=headlight+wiring+diagram Same deal will apply to main headlights ... Cheers, Bantum ... Edited October 5, 201411 yr by Bantum
October 2, 201411 yr Author Bantum, thank you. This car only has 88,000 mi so for now I'm trying to keep her stock. I have a 2001 Dodge P/U with a cummins factory thought #16 wires were good enough for headlights, I used # 12 wire and relays (they also have a crappy headlight switch) so I can do if I have to. As a side note in 1966 I was in Vietnam and met a bunch of Australian Marines. They were the nicest bad asses (they did their job) I have ever had the pleasure of drinking a beer with. You can be very proud of your Marines.
October 2, 201411 yr No worries - glad I could help ... P.S. - We don't have the equivalent of 'Marines' in Oz - they would have been either 'Australian Special Forces', SASR or the better known 'Commando' regiment ... Cheers, Bantum ... Edited October 2, 201411 yr by Bantum
October 2, 201411 yr Cool, I learned something! Bantum, love the '76. So going with what I learned in this thread, if all wires and connections check out, I would take a shot at the switch. Leorob Let us know how you fix this. Edited October 2, 201411 yr by jonas
October 2, 201411 yr http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87523-how-to-swap-the-old-roundie-relays-with-standard-bosch-relays/
October 2, 201411 yr Author I'll post results as soon as I can, it will be a few days. I'll post pictures if I can figure it out, I'm computer challenged. Thanks for all the help.
October 5, 201411 yr Author I pulled the instrument cluster no relays in sight. There is a fusible link up by the battery with 2 wires. Voltmeter says12 volts on both sides of link. Anybody know if this is for headlights. Bantum I can't get your wiring diagram to download. I checked for 12 volts at head light socket, nothing there.
October 5, 201411 yr Sorry I forgot to mention the manual is a large file, so if you are on dial up - it will take a while to down load ... P.S. - I've sent you a PM re wiring diagram Leorob ... Add : In the mean time try this one ( in two parts ) as taken from the Clymer A186 manual : You'll note there are No - repeat None, Nudda, Nill, Zero, Zilch, Zip, F'K all - Nope still no headlight relays for this model ... As to the Fusible links, if you follow their paths they do eventually find their way to lights - it just goes through a few other things like switches, regulators & the like first ... Cheers, Bantum ... Edited October 5, 201411 yr by Bantum
October 5, 201411 yr Leo have you pulled the light switches from the dash to check for power in and out? You have to check them with the key on because subaru made sure the lights turn off with the key. One other thing, as far as I know Subaru uses a switched ground on all of the the older cars so most things always have power. I cannot tell you which wires are + or - so you are on your own for that.
October 5, 201411 yr Author So if lights go off with ignition switch, I might have a bad ign. switch. The wiring all looks good, nothing obvious. The fusible links checked out. I'll look at connectors to ign sw in the morning. Thanks guys
October 5, 201411 yr Leo have you pulled the light switches from the dash to check for power in and out? You have to check them with the key on because subaru made sure the lights turn off with the key. One other thing, as far as I know Subaru uses a switched ground on all of the the older cars so most things always have power. I cannot tell you which wires are + or - so you are on your own for that. Subaru didn't start that until 1982, with the wiring change that introduced the blade fuses. All the older ones with glass fuses run direct power through the switch to the headlights.....even with key off. I know because I have installed a "key on" relay for the headlight circuit of my buddies 81 so he would stop leaving his lights on. All we did was interupt the wire for the fuse at the fuse box......I digress. Leobob.....I really am thinking you have a bad Headlight switch. From the 1982 product update FSM. "The wiring configuaration of the lighting cicuit has been improved for 1982 A) A lighting relay as been added into the circuit. It is located under the hood along with the fusible links B)Two 10 amp fuses are now used for the headlamps. ONe fuse is for the left side while the other is for the right side. C)Switching for the lights is now done on the ground side of the circuit." So....I was incorrect before editing this......You should have ground on one of the headlight pins at each connector....and should get 12v for either Hi or Lo cicuit through the switch. Edited October 5, 201411 yr by Gloyale
October 6, 201411 yr Yep - its just a matter of 'process of elimination' & you will eventually find the culprit ... If you trace / find all items linked to the lights like : wiring, plugs, switches & fuses and test them all for continuity etc. you should end up finding the sucker ... ! P.S. - Have you checked that the actual lights work by themselves ... ? ie: disconnect and run via a test lead to battery ... Cheers, Bantum ... Edited October 6, 201411 yr by Bantum
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now