So I have an 89 GL severely lacking horsepower. I am contemplating where to start. I speculate it is lacking air flow or fuel. Any suggestions would be gratefully taken

Timing is where i would look first.

I will check that out. I just rebuilt the top end around 4500 miles ago, so it should be solid, but spoob happens eh... I had a steady idle of about 750 after rebuild and now petering at 500 or less.. Requires a lengthy warm up or else she will stutter and stall out.. Does all of this sound timing related?

89 would be EFI.  Check your codes on the ECU.  Lots of info on this site on the procedures.

Check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the intake and existing vacuum lines.  That would be my guess... a cracked vacuum line... especially after a top end rebuild.   Intake bolts loose?

Where might I find such procedures?

Pull the kick panel just below the steering column, and look for the ECU, should be a dull-silver box. Go to ignition on, watch for the blinking light and count the codes (just like old GM, long flash for 10s, short for 1s).

 

My guess would be either a MAF or Coolant Temp Sensor

Did  you do the timing belt marks correctly? REmember, thjat there is a 360 degree crank rotation between installing belts. Perhaps you are off a tooth. Ign timing should be 20 deg BTDC. Did you remove the distributor at all? The timing belt video is easy to find

Is it fuel injected or is it carburetted?

My EA82 was gutless to the max.

While rebuilding it, I discovered that the passengers side timing belt was off by one (1) tooth. Check for this - makes a HUGE difference.

Other suggestions - new distributor rotor, cap, wires, spark plugs. New fuel filters (there are 2). New air filter. Check ignition timing. Kill your EGR.

If you want a real HP increase, and it's a carburated engine, replace the carb with a Weber. Best thing I ever did for my wagon!

Hey everyone! Thank you for the insight.

Yes, it is SPFI. Yes, I am aware of the correct timing procedures. I will definitely check to see if I'm off a tooth..

 

Here is a list of what I did during rebuild...

Machined head surfaces and valves machined and seated, new lifters(rocker pivots), all top end gaskets, Cam seals, new water pump, timing belts, distributor cap and rotor(yes distributor was removed during rebuild) plugs and wires, all new filters(did not know of second fuel filter...location? ) replaced all fuel, coolant and vacuum lines.. New alternator, aux drive belt and battery...

All done less than 5000 miles ago....

There's one fuel filter under the hood, and one under the car attached to the fuel pump.

There's one fuel filter under the hood, and one under the car attached to the fuel pump.

 

Only on carbed models.  Ended in 87

Righteous. Thanks man. I have a fuel injected 89...

So I'm showing an ECU code 34 which suggests a failed EGR solenoid or circuit. Any way to get around buying a new EGR valve?

Get a Toyota solenoid from a scrap yard. It's just the solenoid that is failed. I have Toyota ones from 1988 that still work.

You can use an EGR solenoid from practically anything. I have one in the car from a ford tempo. There's somebody on here with one from a cadillac. Just trace the vac hose from the egr valve from a late 80's plus car and you'll reach the solenoid. snatch it, wire it in.

If you get a solenoid from another car manufacture you will have to use your wire plug from your old solenoid and wire it up to your new one. If you have an ohm meter make sure you have 30ish ohms for a good solenoid. I just did this on my ea82. I found an evap solenoid off a ea82 at a junk yard.  Swapped out the wiring and bada bing  fixed the code 34.

Edited October 17, 201411 yr by loyale1993

Snagged a egr solenoid from the yard yesterday and tested it, fully functional. Cleared the code 34. Now I am throwing a codes 35 and 24. The purge valve and control valve.. Sooo good morning and here we go!

Just went on a test drive with my idle control valve unplugged and she's running way better!! Idles a little faster and no stalling when I come to a stop.

Is there any repercussions that could come from running it with no idle control valve? Or unplugged....