drums_andsubarus Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 So I have an 89 GL severely lacking horsepower. I am contemplating where to start. I speculate it is lacking air flow or fuel. Any suggestions would be gratefully taken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skysm182 Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 Timing is where i would look first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 3, 2014 Author Share Posted October 3, 2014 I will check that out. I just rebuilt the top end around 4500 miles ago, so it should be solid, but spoob happens eh... I had a steady idle of about 750 after rebuild and now petering at 500 or less.. Requires a lengthy warm up or else she will stutter and stall out.. Does all of this sound timing related? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdweninger Posted October 3, 2014 Share Posted October 3, 2014 89 would be EFI. Check your codes on the ECU. Lots of info on this site on the procedures. Check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the intake and existing vacuum lines. That would be my guess... a cracked vacuum line... especially after a top end rebuild. Intake bolts loose? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Where might I find such procedures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 Wonder Wedge Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Pull the kick panel just below the steering column, and look for the ECU, should be a dull-silver box. Go to ignition on, watch for the blinking light and count the codes (just like old GM, long flash for 10s, short for 1s). My guess would be either a MAF or Coolant Temp Sensor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Did you do the timing belt marks correctly? REmember, thjat there is a 360 degree crank rotation between installing belts. Perhaps you are off a tooth. Ign timing should be 20 deg BTDC. Did you remove the distributor at all? The timing belt video is easy to find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Is it fuel injected or is it carburetted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 My EA82 was gutless to the max. While rebuilding it, I discovered that the passengers side timing belt was off by one (1) tooth. Check for this - makes a HUGE difference. Other suggestions - new distributor rotor, cap, wires, spark plugs. New fuel filters (there are 2). New air filter. Check ignition timing. Kill your EGR. If you want a real HP increase, and it's a carburated engine, replace the carb with a Weber. Best thing I ever did for my wagon! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 Hey everyone! Thank you for the insight. Yes, it is SPFI. Yes, I am aware of the correct timing procedures. I will definitely check to see if I'm off a tooth.. Here is a list of what I did during rebuild... Machined head surfaces and valves machined and seated, new lifters(rocker pivots), all top end gaskets, Cam seals, new water pump, timing belts, distributor cap and rotor(yes distributor was removed during rebuild) plugs and wires, all new filters(did not know of second fuel filter...location? ) replaced all fuel, coolant and vacuum lines.. New alternator, aux drive belt and battery... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 4, 2014 Author Share Posted October 4, 2014 All done less than 5000 miles ago.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdMobile Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 There's one fuel filter under the hood, and one under the car attached to the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 There's one fuel filter under the hood, and one under the car attached to the fuel pump. Only on carbed models. Ended in 87 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 6, 2014 Author Share Posted October 6, 2014 Righteous. Thanks man. I have a fuel injected 89... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 So I'm showing an ECU code 34 which suggests a failed EGR solenoid or circuit. Any way to get around buying a new EGR valve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveT Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Get a Toyota solenoid from a scrap yard. It's just the solenoid that is failed. I have Toyota ones from 1988 that still work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 You can use an EGR solenoid from practically anything. I have one in the car from a ford tempo. There's somebody on here with one from a cadillac. Just trace the vac hose from the egr valve from a late 80's plus car and you'll reach the solenoid. snatch it, wire it in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loyale1993 Posted October 17, 2014 Share Posted October 17, 2014 (edited) If you get a solenoid from another car manufacture you will have to use your wire plug from your old solenoid and wire it up to your new one. If you have an ohm meter make sure you have 30ish ohms for a good solenoid. I just did this on my ea82. I found an evap solenoid off a ea82 at a junk yard. Swapped out the wiring and bada bing fixed the code 34. Edited October 17, 2014 by loyale1993 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Snagged a egr solenoid from the yard yesterday and tested it, fully functional. Cleared the code 34. Now I am throwing a codes 35 and 24. The purge valve and control valve.. Sooo good morning and here we go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Just went on a test drive with my idle control valve unplugged and she's running way better!! Idles a little faster and no stalling when I come to a stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drums_andsubarus Posted October 18, 2014 Author Share Posted October 18, 2014 Is there any repercussions that could come from running it with no idle control valve? Or unplugged.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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