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FINALLY got a replacement 5spd d/r. Couple questions

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  • Author

Some more progress and also a big roadblock hit today, but first with the progress
Got the resurfaced flywheel on, got the clutch plate and cover plate bolted up and lined up good,

 

2quj2hd.jpg

flywheel resurfaced and bolted up to the crank, 60 ft/lbs each bolt with a dab of loctite on.

2vhubmx.jpg
Out with the old, in with the new. The old clutch and pressure plate really weren't in terrible shape. Could be used again if anybody is interested let me know. Shipping on your dime.

2s6ptab.jpg
Friction disc with alignment tool in place

20tjrsw.jpg
The tip of the alignment tool sits in the pilot bearing in the flywheel then;

2epijh2.jpg

You slide the friction plate up against the flywheel, leave the alignment tool in place and then bolt the pressure plate on. After the pressure plate is torqued down you can remove the alignment tool.

So, got the clutch installed, and then transferred all the linkage bits from my old trans to the new one, as well as installed the new throw-out bearing.

Got the trans lined up pretty good in the car and went to reinstall the axles, but they wouldn't go on..

the transmission is a 25 spline turbo car transmission :banghead:

Lesson learned. I was under the assumption that all turbo cars got single range or diff lock transmissions. I didn't think there were any turbo cars with just a straight up regular dual range 5 speed trans, but obviously I was mistaken so now I'm reaping the rewards of my own ignorance and asking for some help

 

I already ordered a set of 25 spline axles from advanced auto. My main question is 25 spline and 23 spline axles both have the same amount of splines on outer joint end right? Please say yes.

My only other thought was to switch the stubs from my old trans to the new one, but I'm going to guess that that's a real PITA to do....

Also, as murphey's law would have it, the dowel pins stayed on my motor when I took my trans out. The dowel pins from the new transmission decided to stay in the trans so now I have to remove a set of dowel pins with the trans almost in position because that's another thing I didn't notice until it was too late :mad:

Live and learn.

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  • Yeah......that's the Hi/Lo light indicator switch.   The 85 had the switch mounted to the D/R lever under the shifter console....   in 87....they changed and added the switch to the side of the tr

  • Ibreakstuff
    Ibreakstuff

    If it was me, I would get the flywheel machined to XT6 specs and use a XT6 PP/clutch kit. Cleaning would allow you to find leaks sooner.

  • Another option you might have is taking your tranny to a tranny shop and having them deep clean it and replace seals. I have no idea what that would cost but might be an option if it isn't too expensi

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As long as the car is EA82 then the 25 spline turbo axles will be perfect.

 

Dowels....actually they will push out the trans side if you choose to just squeeze 'er together.

 

Turbo trans will be 3.7 ratio...From early RX....85,86....

 

So you will need a 3.7 rear end.  Also your lo range is now only 1.19 instead of 1.59.....

 

Damn.....I wish I had that trans for my XT....

  • Author

 

 

 

Turbo trans will be 3.7 ratio...From early RX....85,86....

 

So you will need a 3.7 rear end.  Also your lo range is now only 1.19 instead of 1.59.....

 

mother**%$#@.....

 

That is not good news.

 

I have no 4WD until I get a 3.7 ratio rear end in there now.....Not magnificent.

 

Is there anyway to verify it's a 3.7 or does the fact that it's an old dual range (85) and that it's 25 spline tell you it's def 3.7?

 

Will I be able to use it in FWD with the driveshaft connected or is that also a no-go?

 

Looks like I'm going to be spending MORE money now trying to find a 3.7 rear which I imagine is not going to be easy...

  • Author

Also, can somebody help me figure out whether having a 1.196 lo gear ratio and a 3.7 ratio pumpkin in the back gives me a better lo-range or a worse lo than the regular 5 speed and the 3.9. I've been trying to figure it out myself but math is not for me and it's hurting my head.

Is that going to be more torque/slower crawling speed or the opposite?

Also, can somebody help me figure out whether having a 1.196 lo gear ratio and a 3.7 ratio pumpkin in the back gives me a better lo-range or a worse lo than the regular 5 speed and the 3.9. I've been trying to figure it out myself but math is not for me and it's hurting my head.

 

Is that going to be more torque/slower crawling speed or the opposite?

Opposite......Taller final drive and taller lo range.....

 

Although.....5th gear is shorter so Freeway speeds equal out about the same as the 3.9 non-turbo unit.

 

 

Find a  automatic ea81/ea82 4wd those have 3.7 differentials. You might as get a lsd one while your at it.

 

Only early ones......after IIRC 87+ the 3at also has 3.9

Only early ones......after IIRC 87+ the 3at also has 3.9

All the 4wd 3 at's i've seen have had a 3.7 rear end from the 2nd gens to a 94 loyale.

All the 4wd 3 at's i've seen have had a 3.7 rear end from the 2nd gens to a 94 loyale.

 

Incorrect.

 

after 87+ 3AT all use 3.9 unless turbo.

 

I just rechecked the 87,88,89, and 90 FSMs.

Incorrect.

 

after 87+ 3AT all use 3.9 unless turbo.

 

I just rechecked the 87,88,89, and 90 FSMs.

your definitely right the auto loyales i looked at today at pick n pull had 3.9's can't believe i haven't noticed that before. Thanks for the correct info.

  • Author

I'm going to be able to drive the car in fwd with the 3.9 still in the back right?

^^^ Yes, but one mistake and you will be sad. I drove mine around with a yoke zip tied in the back to keep the gear oil in for quite a while and it turned out fine.

  • Author

Thanks. I will be sure to keep my hand off the 4wd lever. Your answer is a Lyle confusing though, i meant will it be okay to drive in fwd only *with* my driveshaft connected to my 3.9 rear and my 3.7 trans. Maybe i wasn't clear. Thank you. Nice pics of the split open dual range btw

Yes it should be just fine as long as it's not FT 4WD and you just keep it only in FWD. I have driven this combination before exactly like that and much worse in the middle of different projects.

Edited by Crazyeights

  • Author

This just seems to go from bad to worse;

 

I've finally gotten the motor and the trans mounted. Because I'm a NOOB and have never done this before, I didn't notice that the dowels remained on my motor side when I took my trans out and the dowels on the new trans that's going in were still attached as well until I had the trans in the car.

I tried just bolting the trans up and squeezing the trans side dowels out, but that was a no go so eventually I hacksawed and drilled them out.

Long story short, the trans is mated.

Now I've got a NEW problem! My starter isn't going in.

So now, my question to you oh so humble subagurus, is this

Is there a difference in the flywheel/starter combination between an 87 dual range carb GL (my car) and an 85 subaru RX turbo (the car my trans came from)?

Does anybody have any idea why I'm having trouble re-attaching my starter?

87 GL flywheel
87 GL clutch and pressure plate
87 GL starter motor
85 RX Turbo dual range transmission.

Gonna go back to breaking the brick wall with my forehead now.
:banghead:

(thanks for all the help and advice peoples)
 

  • Author

Jumping back in to this tomorrow. Hoping someone can confirm they are the same or different before i go nuts trying to get it to fit in the morning. FWIW rockauto and advanced auto have no information on starter motors for an 85 rx, though autozone website lists one with the same part number as one for an 87 GL

  • Author

Nobody has any InFoRmAtIoNs?! :o

Everything I've experienced says the starters are the same.  Sure your not using an Auto starter?

  • Author

gloyale, thanks for your reply. I was pretty much counting on you to chime in because you really seem to know your stuff.

 

The starter fits. I think it was just because it was the last thing I was working on last night and it was dark and I was tired that it was giving me fits and I just gave up, got it fit in today and it clears the flywheel. Phew.

 

Got all the shifter linkage hooked up,
got the interior all put back together,
got the exhaust bolted all back in place,
swapped the exhaust mount from my old trans to the new one,
got the car OFF the ramps finally (made working under the hood a pain),
got the driver's side turbo axle installed
couldn't get the mot$*($#$# pass side axle through the hub by the time night-fell and I'd been working on the car ALL day, no food, no breaks so by that point "The Madness" was beginning to set in so I threw everything under the car and called it a night.

Sucks that I have to wait until next weekend to get it finally all buttoned up

Things to do:
Pass side axle
Install starter
hook up speedo cable (wish me luck with that. I MAULED it taking it off =( )
spare tire support
etc odds and ends
adjust clutch (it's not well adjusted right now but I notice that the pedal is not really springing back up like it used to, does anybody have any ideas on that or is it just because it's not adjusted properly?)
and, Mr_Loyale, drain the gear oil and fill with fresh new stuff (any suggestions?)

Thank you all for going through this job with me through this thread, you've all helped immensely. You people who swap out a trans in a day amaze me, this weekend coming up is going to be weekend number 4 of working on the car :huh:

Great effort!  I've just been reading your saga.  Wow.... good-goin not giving up on it.  Keep us updated and thanks for posting those detailed pics earlier about the flywheel, etc.  That should help some people out too.  Best wishes.

Maybe someone can point me out if I'm wrong but cant you get a 3.7 rear diff gear ring and just install it in the diff? It sounds like you can wait for shipping. I'm thinking from a transmission shop or something.... Too much work/cost prohibitive?

Maybe someone can point me out if I'm wrong but cant you get a 3.7 rear diff gear ring and just install it in the diff? It sounds like you can wait for shipping. I'm thinking from a transmission shop or something.... Too much work/cost prohibitive?

 

The rear gear has to match the pinion. Easier to just swap carriers..

 

Setting up a diff from scratch requires shims and a dial caliper on a magnetic base, not very much fun at all.

  • Author

Two85s, thanks for the kind words. Can't give up on it, need it back on the road and, well, learning experience and what not.

 

Hsoj, i was wondering that exact thing myself but i don't know squat about how any of that works which leads me to

 

Ibreakstuff, what? Lol, could you elaborate?

When you say rear gear you're talking about the diff itself?

What is the pinion?

And when you say carriers??

Basically i have no idea what you're talking about and I'd like to understand

 

Thanks

Any chance that junk yard (or maybe you?) has the shift linkages for a D/R 5spd? I'm trying to accumulate the parts to swap one into the Ski Wagon and so far all i have the tranny itself.

  • Author

All the linkages i have from the junkyard transmission they used a torch and just cut them all out. The attachments to the trans are there but then it's just about 5 inches of metal to the cuts. Don't think that'll be of any help.

For hsoj and 175eya: (thanks to numbchux)
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/63821-pics-of-lsd-conversion/
 

The carrier is the guts of a diff, the part that does the work. The idea is to replace the open carrier with the lsd carrier but keep the ring, pinion, and case matched.

 

Edit: More good reads..

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2597453 (the clsd shown here is ours, 2way plated goodness)

Edited by Ibreakstuff

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