I'm still dealing with my torquebind. Found a "good" auto tranny with 90 K that's supposed to fit an Impreza or Outback. How can I tell if it will fit my Legacy? The number on it is TZ102A5AA-GN and 215772. Is there a reference somewhere I can look it up?

Thanks,

TB is a pretty easy fix as everything is in the tailshaft of the Trans.  It's much easier to fix TB instead of a trans change.

 

Search Transmission Chart and you will find it, to cross check your #'s

Thanks.

So if they are compatible could I just swap the tailshaft then?

 

. How can I tell if it will fit my Legacy? The number on it is

TZ102A5AA-GN and 215772. Is there a reference somewhere I can look it up?

the TZ102ZA5AA is an auto trans with the 4.11 final drive ratio.

it is a match for the 95 - 98 auto trans in the legacy L, LS, brighton (ej22 cars)

NOT the outback, GT or the LSi (ej25 cars)

 

what year, model, engine, trans, miles, color is your car?

Rusty Green 1997 Legacy L, EJ22, Automatic as in the signature.

Thanks,

Search Torque Bind, some pretty good threads with pics on the replacement. 

Just change what's bad.  The last one i did just had a broken wire that had to be fixed.

Does the FWD light come on when you put in the fuse?

Have you tried the drain and fill to clean out the Trans?

Yea, did the drain and fill 3 times. FWD light used to come on with the fuse but not any more. That's why I figure I'll need to R&R the Trans but didn't realize it would be easier to do just the tailshaft. Wish it was just a wire, not checked that yet, which wire was it?

The one gong to the C-Duty, which controls the rear clutch pack.

If the light is no longer coming on, the C-Duty or a wire fault on it is most likely.

OK, I'll check that wire then, is that the one coming out of the tailshaft on the driver's side? I assume the C-duty is in the tailshaft as well?

Thanks,

YES & YES

You have to slide the tail shaft back about an 1" and disconnect the connector for the C-Duty

And then I have just FWD right?

No, if the C-Duty is not working, it's in AWD all the time, which is why you have torque bind.

YES & YES

You have to slide the tail shaft back about an 1" and disconnect the connector for the C-Duty

So what good does disconnecting it do then?

I think we need to clarify two discussions here - one is replacement of the tailshaft/4WD components and the other is testing.  I think those two conversations are getting mixed up.

 

Regarding testing:

1.  when the FWD light "used to come on" - would it actually be in FWD?

2.  we need to determine if the FWD light doesn't come on - is that what happens when the Duty C is not working right or is that something else?

 

I think if the Duty C isn't working - the FWD light won't come on...but it's been awhile so i'm uncertain...

 

Regarding replacement:

If you're swapping the rear transfer clutches then final drive ratio of the trans doesn't matter - just swap the rear extension housing and Duty C solenoid.

 

Once you pull the tail shaft back you'll have access to disconnect the Duty C solenoid for replacement - i think that's what he was talking about - replacing it - not testing it.

Edited December 2, 201411 yr by grossgary

I've seen cases where the fwd light would come on but make no difference to the binding. That was a failed solenoid, this sounds like it could be a tcu issue at this point to me.

if the duty c fails, or the TCU for that matter, you should get a flashing AT Temp light at start up.

if you get the FWD light with the fuse in, the duty c should be working.

if no FWD light with the fuse in, the duty C is probably NOT working ,

and you should have a flashing AT Temp light at start up.

 

i have read of a few cases of TB , with no flashing AT Temp light,

and no improvement with the fuse in, regardless of the FWD light.

and in at least a few of these cases , fresh fluid , 3 gallons of it, helped.

the conclusion being that the gunk, stopped the duty c from working correctly,

but the electronics were still good.

i can not imagine that situation would last very long before the duty C failed altogether.

 

the trans holds about 10.5 qts. of ATF.

a 'drain and fill' will usually only replace about 3.5 qts.

so unless you have done 3 drain and fills,

you have not replaced most of the ATF.

 

so if there are no other indicators ,

i would replace ALL of the ATF before i started shopping for a trans.

 

good luck.

No FWD light with fuse in. AT Temp light flashes. Did the 3 time drain and fill thing right off the bat.

 

Anybody have a picture or diagram of the wire running to the tranny? All I see under there is a loom going on past to the rear. But it is pretty tight and there's a bunch of greasy gunk on the trans too.

 

Happy New Year