Finished up my heater core job nicely a couple of weeks ago and upon reassembly, I had a acquired a new issue...while driving, the door locks will cycle (sounds like maybe a couple of times...?) and lock on their own.  This is accompanied by the "door ajar" indicator light on the dash as well as the interior light turning on.  It can happen fairly frequently in a short trip or not at all - seems random.  I assume this is related to the fact that something was banged about/loosened during the heater core job.

 

I have a few related questions:

 

1.  I've read the threads related to the door lock timer being the culprit on some Legacy's.  I am assuming this is where I should start.  Does anyone know the location of such device?  Is it under the dash on the passenger side - the same as the Legacy?

 

2.  Am I looking at replacing the unit?  If so, I am assuming it's a dealer only part or is there something else I can do to check it/ fix it?  Voltage/resistance/connection fiddling tests...?

 

3.  I noticed that the security reset button (brown wire right under the kick panel) was difficult to depress.  I had to do so because I had the battery cable off during the heater core job and when I got this car, it didn't come with a key fob.  Is it possible that the button/switch is just hooped, causing the issue? 

 

Thanks, 

 

Dean

 

 

check door locks too - did any of the doors get wet recently (door open while working on heater core)?

if the door gets wet the contacts in the switch can get freaked out and lock/unlock doors randomly.

but i'd anticipate it to go away after a day or so of driving/use/not exposed to moisture.

 

otherwise yeah it's probably the timer. 

get a used one www.car-part.com

not sure you should dare yourself to price one from the dealer....they don't fail often enough to warrant insane prices.

someone on here probably has one for you, they're nto very high demand.  post in parts wanted forum if neeeded.

Thanks, the doors are sealed nicely.  Switches have been dry for a long time.  I guess I could try unplugging the lock switches to see if that makes a difference.  

If you indeed have a door-lock timer (my 2002 Forester does not), why not just remove it from the circuit (if that's possible).

 

If I found an automatic door-lock timer on my car, I would toss it into the nearest lake (the timer, not the car).

If you indeed have a door-lock timer (my 2002 Forester does not), why not just remove it from the circuit (if that's possible).

 

Because I am unsure if the "dock lock timer" is known to cause the specific issue I described.  Its such an odd thing to happen that I turned to the internet looking for help, read a couple of similar posts and followed up with specifics related to my model.  Digging into the dash is time consuming, especially if I have to tear the whole thing out just to get at the unit.  Furthermore, I am unfamiliar with exactly what a "door lock timer" is supposed to do, so I don't even know if removing said device would help the situation.   

 

Ha ha, I am not throwing anything in any lake.  I don't pollute.  I fish.  

This happens a lot with pre 2000 Subys when the battery is disconnected. Either replace button or twist ends to make constant contact.

It is disconcerting when you're driving and the door locks start cycling!

 

O.

Edited December 11, 201411 yr by ocei77

Thanks ocei77.  So...if I was to just take the button out and twist the two ends together, what happens when I disconnect the battery the next time?  How do I do the reset?  Would that mean that I have to UNDO the connection with the ignition turned to 'on' in order to reset (and stop the lights from flashing)?

Once twisted the circuit is always complete. It will work regularly whenever the battery is disconnected again.

I replaced  the toggle switch on a 98 Impreza, but the female driver had to move her seat up all the way, constantly hitting the switch. I just twisted the ends and removed the toggle. No more problems in this area.

 

O.