dp213 Posted January 16, 2015 Share Posted January 16, 2015 Sorry. Posted on the wrong topic. Thought I was on a head gasket forum. My bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Quick question for ya'll. One thing I am worried about is the sealant on the oil pump. I'm doing this tonight and I need to be able to drive it home tonight. Is that sealant gonna be set enough for me to drive it home safely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 I used the felpro gasket, no sealant on my oil pump. You will hear 50 different things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 I used the felpro gasket, no sealant on my oil pump. You will hear 50 different things. I bought that Permatex anaerobic gasket maker sealant. Right now I am trying to get the cam sprockets off since I didn't loosen the nuts before removing the belt. Anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 I bought that Permatex anaerobic gasket maker sealant. Right now I am trying to get the cam sprockets off since I didn't loosen the nuts before removing the belt. Anyone have any ideas? I was able to rig up a crude cam gear wrench using an adjustable wrench on the spoke of the cam gear and a pipe wrench to hold the adjustable while I got the cam nut with a socket. It could be tricky with the engine still in the car (I had my engine out when I did this. Ideally you would use a strap wrench. I've seen pictures online of guys that used a board and some bolts to make a cam gear holder more like the metal wrenches you can get for $50ish online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Yeah we just ended up running to town and getting a compressor and using an impact wrench. About half way done. Can someone tell me with the cam seals, am I supposed to tap them all the way til they bottom out or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 Alright guys, after about 5 hours and a rediculous amount of screwing around, I successfully got the timing belt installed. New belt, pulleys, water pump, also removed the oil pump, cleaned it up and resealed it (ZERO bolts loose on backing plate btw, weird). All three seals were leaking profusely, Got new cam seals in, new crank seal, new oring on the back of the left cam. I fired it up w/the radiator still out just to make sure it ran. She purred like a kitten as always. Got everything back together. Obviously, nobody had been in that timing cover in a LONG time. It had a Subaru OEM belt on it (Still had faded Subaru lettering on it) and OEM water pump and thermostat as well. I did NOT replace the thermostat cause I couldn't get ahold of one in time. Is it possible that a belt could last 264,000 miles?!?! I I find it incredibly hard to believe that any belt could last that long. Then again, somebody MAY have had it replaced at a dealership and they used OEM parts, i find that unlikely also. Anyways I'll post pictures of it later. IAM HAVING A PROBLEM THOUGH. I had it warming up and was bleeding the cooling system, heater on full blast, ect. I noticed the fans were on already. Weird. I checked the temp gage after it running for about ten minutes. It was just above the halfway mark. Usually it sits below the halfway mark. As it warmed up the gage kept rising but I was getting zero hot air out of the vents. Figured the thermostat wasn't opening. I said screw it and buttoned it up, and started heading home, before going a block the temperature gage spiked all the way to the top. Pulled over. Then engine wasn't even hot. I mean I could put my hands on it and it had been running at least 20 minutes. Still cold air coming from heater vents. Bizarre. I tried bleeding the cooling system again and pull the thermostat housing and fiddled w/the stat. Still no bueno. I finally said codswallop it and drove it home (about 18 miles). Temp gage was completely pegged at the top the whole way. I pulled over halfway and checked, the engine still wasn't hot. When I got almost home the gage dropped to about 2/3rds for a bit, then rose again. Finally got hot air out of the vents for the last couple minutes. Got home, temp gage still spiked and fans still running, but engine barely even warm. Can somebody please explain this to me?!?! Is the T-stat not opening causing the cold air in vents and spiked gage? What do you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 In my opinion,, air bubble in cooling system,, that whole burping business is goofy. But its real. There are others here who are more mechanics than I am.. But same thing happened to me in the past, and it was due to air bubble . Keep filling it,, run it,, turn it off let it sit,, turn it on ,, fill it don't let it bubble over, shut it off,, let it sit a minute,, repeat. On the top passenger side of your radiator is a plastic plug screw. this is to help with letting air out and getting coolant into trhe block thru the top hose. Be patient.. it will work out eventually Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 If you search for "burping" I think you'll find some posts about it. Usually, it is best to fill the block through the upper radiator hose first, then attach it and fill more. Elevating the front end (on ramps, up a curb, on an inclined driveway, etc.) help as well. I agree with xdeadeye1 and think it sounds like air in the system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) In my opinion,, air bubble in cooling system,, that whole burping business is goofy. But its real. There are others here who are more mechanics than I am.. But same thing happened to me in the past, and it was due to air bubble . Keep filling it,, run it,, turn it off let it sit,, turn it on ,, fill it don't let it bubble over, shut it off,, let it sit a minute,, repeat. On the top passenger side of your radiator is a plastic plug screw. this is to help with letting air out and getting coolant into trhe block thru the top hose. Be patient.. it will work out eventually Huh. Yeah I did do that when I refilled the coolant. I knew about the plastic bleeder screw (work in a lube shop and do coolant flushes all the time), and i bled the coolant system and burped it for like 20 minutes. I guess i'll do it again. One thing I didn't mention is that after getting the belt installed, before reinstalling the radiator and timing covers I did start to the engine for about 10 seconds to make sure it was gonna run. I was terrified I would get it back together and it not run. So I'm thinking maybe I introduced a giant air bubble to the system by starting it with no radiator on. I know that probably wasn't advisable but I really didn't wanna have to tear it down again. I couldn't see what it would hurt. Should I just totally drain all the coolant and start again? And by the way, is there another placed I can bleed from the plastic screw? Like maybe a heater hose by the firewall? I'm really hoping I don't need to buy a thermostat cause job has tapped me out. And is it going to hurt anything driving it w/the temp gage spiked like this? Like I said, the engine doesn't even get host all. The gage is obviously not reading correctly. But i have to get to work.. Edited January 17, 2015 by nicholi2789 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorthguy Posted January 17, 2015 Share Posted January 17, 2015 With bleed screw out and radiator cap off, that should be enough to help purge extra air (with a little front end elevation). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 17, 2015 Author Share Posted January 17, 2015 I don't know what to do. I had it running and a ton of air came out of the system when I opened the cap, the gage is still spiking tho, I don't know what to do. I bought a thermostat but haven't installed it yet. Is there anything that could have possible happened from replacing the water pump that would make it overheat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 doubtful that replacing the water pump is causing the issue - unless for some reason the pump is bad - you probably still have air in the system. and running it briefly ( a minute or two) without coolant shouldnt have hurt anything either - i did it with 2 of mine (90 and 95) How much coolant did you put back into it? should be around a gallon and a half or so. When refiling thru the upper rad hose, you have to fill slowly, let it bleed down into the block, fill some more, let it bleed down, repeat until it doesnt bleed down anymore. nose in the air does help - a LOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 doubtful that replacing the water pump is causing the issue - unless for some reason the pump is bad - you probably still have air in the system. and running it briefly ( a minute or two) without coolant shouldnt have hurt anything either - i did it with 2 of mine (90 and 95) How much coolant did you put back into it? should be around a gallon and a half or so. When refiling thru the upper rad hose, you have to fill slowly, let it bleed down into the block, fill some more, let it bleed down, repeat until it doesnt bleed down anymore. nose in the air does help - a LOT. Cool Yeah i didn't think it would hurt it. Now here is a weird thing. When I drained the radiator and took it out, I got about 4-5 quarts out of it roughly. After the job I turned the fans on full blast, opened the bleeder and cap, and burped the system for about 20 minutes and I could only get it to take about 2 or 3 quarts. Even after it warmer up and the gage was in the red zone. I thought that was weird. Anyways, I drove it home like that last night. Today I pulled it on an incline at work and opened bleeder, and cap, and burped it for about 20 minutes. I got it to take more than another whole gallon. Some massive air bubbles came out too. I also pulled top hose for radiator side and dumped about a quart of coolant in that way. Finally after turning it on and off and burping it it finally seems to be normal. The gage stays where it used to (slightly below half) and am finally getting hot air thru the vents. It's not overhearing anymore and seems normal. I didn't even have to replace the thermostat and honestly I'm not going to until it goes bad. I don't wanna do that again lol. It seems that the incline and pulling the top hose did the trick. Who knew how big of a pain in the rump roast a subaru cooling system could be! Anyways timing belt and seal replacing job is done! Thank you everyone for all your patience and sound advice! I could not have done it without these forums! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 glad to hear you (hopefully) got it sorted out. yup - top hose fill is the way to go on these...always start with the top hose, then, once it wont take anymore that way, connect hose and fill rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Here are some of the old parts. Is it possible that this could be the original belt and water pump? The water pump especially looks original. I doubt they took it to dealership and had these parts replaced but it is possible. What do you think guys? 264,000 miles on a timing belt? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) And here is the water pump.. Edited January 18, 2015 by nicholi2789 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heartless Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 belt was more than likely replaced at some point, OEM belts are easy to get. Water pump could very well be the original - most dont get replaced on the first timing belt job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 belt was more than likely replaced at some point, OEM belts are easy to get. Water pump could very well be the original - most dont get replaced on the first timing belt job Yeah the belt is definetely worn out but it's not as worn as you would think if it had that many miles. I noticed the newer water pumps have different fins on the inside. They look a little different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xdeadeye1 Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 . "Some massive air bubbles came out too. I also pulled top hose for radiator side and dumped about a quart of coolant in that way. Finally after turning it on and off and burping it it finally seems to be normal. The gage stays where it used to (slightly below half) and am finally getting hot air thru the vents. It's not overhearing anymore and seems normal. I didn't even have to replace the thermostat and honestly I'm not going to until it goes bad. I don't wanna do that again lol. It seems that the incline and pulling the top hose did the trick. Who knew how big of a pain in the rump roast a subaru cooling system could be!" I knew!!! lol glad it all worked out for ya. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 (edited) . "Some massive air bubbles came out too. I also pulled top hose for radiator side and dumped about a quart of coolant in that way. Finally after turning it on and off and burping it it finally seems to be normal. The gage stays where it used to (slightly below half) and am finally getting hot air thru the vents. It's not overhearing anymore and seems normal. I didn't even have to replace the thermostat and honestly I'm not going to until it goes bad. I don't wanna do that again lol. It seems that the incline and pulling the top hose did the trick. Who knew how big of a pain in the rump roast a subaru cooling system could be!" I knew!!! lol glad it all worked out for ya. Haha stupid predictive texting. Lol. Rump roast. I definetely didn't meant to type that... Anyways, yes you did see that coming! And your advice was sound and solved my problem. Thanks alot for all your help throughout this thing. It was definetely a learning experience for me and I feel confident I could do it again in probably half the time. Just goes to show, no matter how much planning and research you do, there is always gonna be something that screws you up when it comes to this stuff. Always more to learn. Thanks. Edited January 18, 2015 by nicholi2789 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikec03 Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 In my opinion, the old hose didn't look bad. I took off an old OEM hose which I guess had 120 to 200K and it was cracked every 1/2 inch. Your problem was that you didn't pour coolant into top radiator hose and/or didn't have the car on a slight slope. Your clue should have been when you couldn't get more then 3 qts in. But all's well then ends well. Thanks be to the helpful and knowledgeable people on this forum and the wonderfully easy to work on and robustness of the 2.2 engine. I know that you feel just like I did when I did my first timing belt change, also on a 95, with the great help of this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 In my opinion, the old hose didn't look bad. I took off an old OEM hose which I guess had 120 to 200K and it was cracked every 1/2 inch. Your problem was that you didn't pour coolant into top radiator hose and/or didn't have the car on a slight slope. Your clue should have been when you couldn't get more then 3 qts in. But all's well then ends well. Thanks be to the helpful and knowledgeable people on this forum and the wonderfully easy to work on and robustness of the 2.2 engine. I know that you feel just like I did when I did my first timing belt change, also on a 95, with the great help of this forum. Yeah i never thought the radiator hose looked that bad. I was gonna replace them just because but I didn't. Anyways, I thought it was weird that it didn't take much coolant but I didn't exactly measure how much came out. Plus it was 330 in the morning and I had been working on it doe 7 hours almost, and that after already working a 9 hour day. I was tired and just couldn't bear to look at that engine for another second lol. Eh all well that ends well I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicholi2789 Posted January 18, 2015 Author Share Posted January 18, 2015 Oh and I had one last question regarding the timing. I had access to a timing light today, I hooked it to cylinder one spark plug wire and had it warmed up, idling right at 750 RPMS. Shining the light on the mark, it was right at 13 or 14. Is that on? Right where it should be? I mean it idles smooth as heck so it can't be that far off. I tried googling what it's supposed to be but all I turned up were timing belt threads and videos, nothing on how to actually time it. And I can't find the page on the FSM (it's in Pdf form and none of them are labeled). So can anyone tell me if 13-14 is right?all I really know is that because it's a manual transmission it will be different than an automatic. Somebody somewhere told me that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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