CarpeNoctem Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I've seen bits and pieces on the keyless situation but nothing complete. Like a list of components, stock wiring diagram with the aftermarket added in to it, and an install writeup. I may be missing it. So far I understand you need a RHD or aftermarket solenoid for drivers door Solenoids operate on a 3 wire reversing polarity setup positive one side locks positive from the other unlocks and a unified ground(i believe) except for the hatch which is a two wire setup It Seems like it would be easier to remove the central locking switch in the drivers door completely and replace it with a conventional one on each front door or in the center console to run all 4 doors, and another run off the same fused wire to run the hatch as a separate item (making an alarm systems hatch button useful in the process) and just pretend the old system never happened. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I'm attempting to do this with my RHD car. I've got a passenger door solenoid from a US car, and the "tailgate lock" switch from an 85-87 GL Touring wagon (not sure if the US GL wagon had this switch). The only thing I'm trying to change is to swap this switch wit hte rear wiper switch, because otherwise it's on the door side of the steering wheel, and too easily accessible through the window for thieves (I think the main reason that Subaru deleted this switch on post 87 models & integrated the tailgate lock into the full central locking wiring. I'd be tempted to bring one over for you as I'll be in LV in about 5 weeks time, but GL wrecks are impossibly thin on the ground here now. But the exchange rate is great if you want one posted 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Depends on what year your car is made. As most late model Subaru's after about 1990 ? ( not sure of exact date ) had them standard.If yours is from an earlier period with out central locking, you could try installing a kit brought from Auto store or similar : Did this for MY models : http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22647&highlight=keyless There's also other threads out there for installing a Remote / keyless alarm system ... Cheers, Bantum ... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 (edited) Depends on what year your car is made. As most late model Subaru's after about 1990 ? ( not sure of exact date ) had them standard. If yours is from an earlier period with out central locking, you could try installing a kit brought from Auto store or similar : Did this for MY models : http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22647&highlight=keyless There's also other threads out there for installing a Remote / keyless alarm system ... Cheers, Bantum ... I started doing this about 10 months ago and had to stop cause I finally determined that I need relays for the actuators, or at least this was my conclusion as to why I couldn't get them to respond to the brain. On my 86 Brat Are there some actuators that come with relays or was I on the wrong track. On the off note here my wife thinks I am crazy for doing this addition. Might be cause I have 1900 other projects that need tending to also. Anybody else have this issue? Edited February 4, 2015 by Dinky26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarpeNoctem Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 I'd be tempted to bring one over for you as I'll be in LV in about 5 weeks time, but GL wrecks are impossibly thin on the ground here now. But the exchange rate is great if you want one posted if you cab get your hands on a solenoid, rod and whatnot from the left front door you'd make my month. Cant beat hand delivery:D Saves me having to fight to make universal pats fit. The trunk switch too if one turned up. Depends on what year your car is made. As most late model Subaru's after about 1990 ? ( not sure of exact date ) had them standard. If yours is from an earlier period with out central locking, you could try installing a kit brought from Auto store or similar : Did this for MY models : http://www.ausubaru.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22647&highlight=keyless There's also other threads out there for installing a Remote / keyless alarm system ... Cheers, Bantum ... Should have mentioned mine is an 94 loyale wagon. It has the crap central locking. But t as I said ....crap. One central switch and a keyless system should be much easier to deal with. I could mount one on eachfront door but its extra wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 (edited) Yeah I did that with my white Loyale Uno. I even added a trunk pop solenoid (I have a sedan) so I could open the trunk using the key fob. The door locks (Loyale) require you to add a solenoid to the driver door with a rod and two relays as most "brains" have a neg pulse for open and a separate neg pulse for closing. This is unlike how the other three Subaru door lock actuators work as they do a sort of self polarity reversal using a motorized switching mechanism. NOTE: If your "brain" uses pos pulses to operate the lock and unlock you will need an additional solenoid to reverse the polarity to use the circuit below. There is a nice lock actuator kit I purchased for mine that also includes the rod for operating the driver side lock. I bought it at cartoys: http://www.cartoys.com/ds-2 Here is it mounted in the driver side door of my Loyale Sedan: The rod and hardware to connect it is in the kit for $20. I walked into my local car Toys shop and bought it. The solenoid closes when the polarity is one way and opens when the polarity is reversed. You need to run the two wires through the door harness bundle into the firewall and you can then access them from inside the car there. Of course you will then need a circuit to revers the polarity depending upon if it is closing or opening. So I used this circuit called a "Resistive Rest at Ground" which uses two relays. I mounted the relays under the left front kick panel. I got relays and sockets off Amazon. Here is a pic of them wired before connecting to the actuator. The white wires connect to the "brain". Edited February 5, 2015 by MR_Loyale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I started doing this about 10 months ago and had to stop cause I finally determined that I need relays for the actuators, or at least this was my conclusion as to why I couldn't get them to respond to the brain. On my 86 Brat Are there some actuators that come with relays or was I on the wrong track. On the off note here my wife thinks I am crazy for doing this addition. Might be cause I have 1900 other projects that need tending to also. Anybody else have this issue? You absolutely need relays! The solenoid draws way more power than the digital signal from the "brain" can deliver. In fact you can damage the "brain" if you don't use relays. Not sure if the Brat has any actuators at all. If not you can get two actuators and operate them off the two relay setup I discussed in the post above. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 if you cab get your hands on a solenoid, rod and whatnot from the left front door you'd make my month. Cant beat hand delivery:D Saves me having to fight to make universal pats fit. The trunk switch too if one turned up. Should have mentioned mine is an 94 loyale wagon. It has the crap central locking. But t as I said ....crap. One central switch and a keyless system should be much easier to deal with. I could mount one on eachfront door but its extra wiring. For the Loyale all you need is a single actuator operating the driver side door locking rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 (edited) Yeah + 1 if you want to add to the existing central locking, you'll need a actuator, door control unit relay + wiring.Otherwise if you do want the full benefit of a keyless + alarm system, its worth spending a bit of time and $ to get a kit with all the bits required, then install it yourself - as they are not that hard to do, just fiddly ... ( Add : If your not that way inclined, allow a bit extra for someone else to do the install ) Parts required for full system : Actuators, Door control unit relay, Alarm module, Siren + Wiring ... ( Note : Its not a detailed list by any means, just the basics ) Again theres plenty of 'how to do' threads / videos etc. out there ... Cheers, Bantum ... Edited February 12, 2015 by Bantum 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dinky26 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Good to hear I at least figured it out before I fried anything. Fiddly is sure an understatement for the way my brain computes things, drives me insane some days... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Considering how fiddly it has been for me, I'd just get an aftermarket solenoid to fit into the driver's door that goes with your remote control. Need to rewire the dashboard, plus the driver's door using factory parts. No chance of getting any parts before I leave (9 days & counting). Most of the wrecks here are the DL version as GLs stopped in 1990 when the Liberty (Legacy) was released, so I haven't seen one in ages locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted February 6, 2015 Share Posted February 6, 2015 Considering how fiddly it has been for me, I'd just get an aftermarket solenoid to fit into the driver's door that goes with your remote control. Need to rewire the dashboard, plus the driver's door using factory parts. No chance of getting any parts before I leave (9 days & counting). Most of the wrecks here are the DL version as GLs stopped in 1990 when the Liberty (Legacy) was released, so I haven't seen one in ages locally. No need to "rewire the dashboard" lol. You just need to get a main unit that has the features (keyless, alarm, remote start etc) you want and the at least for the keyless entry part all you really need is the power connection and connecting to the two solenoid wires as I have shown. There are about three other wires you tap into that allows you to program the remote to the main unit by jiggling the ignition key typically. The easiest way to find the right wires is using a probe and a wiring diagram. Of course read the instructions of the unit you are installing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendecker Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) No need to "rewire the dashboard" lol. You just need to get a main unit that has the features (keyless, alarm, remote start etc) you want and the at least for the keyless entry part all you really need is the power connection and connecting to the two solenoid wires as I have shown. There are about three other wires you tap into that allows you to program the remote to the main unit by jiggling the ignition key typically. The easiest way to find the right wires is using a probe and a wiring diagram. Of course read the instructions of the unit you are installing too. I put the system you used into my '93 impreza. As far as I can tell, the same actuators are sold by a ton of companies, but are all the exact same part. They work really, really well... until they don't. I have found the quality to be lacking and about every 18 months or so, one starts making this horrible sound like a duck quacking while being run over by a car. Then, when you you pull off the door panel to check them. it turns out that the cheap ABS housing has cracked. I have fixed several by wrapping them in fiberglass drywall tape with JB Weld imbedded. They've actually lasted longer after the fix. But, now that so many people sell them, then can be had for under $10.00 a pop, so it's probably not worth the effort. BTW, I've never had a problem with the key chain FOBs or the receiver. If anyone has a source for some better quality versions, that would be great. They really do work well, other than the longevity issue. Edited February 7, 2015 by bendecker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MR_Loyale Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 That's weird. I have had mine in since 2013 and it is still working fine. Did you make sure to lubricate all the mechanisms so they wouldn't stress the actuator? Gee I hope mine isn't about to break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bendecker Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) Everything was lubed up when I put them in. Maybe I got an early or bad batch? I can't say the one's I have have been a bad experience. Even with the breaks, it's still great to have automatic door locks. I'm glad you're are still going strong. In my case, I currently have one that needs a fix. Oh well... :-) Edited February 8, 2015 by bendecker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bantum Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) Sounds like something's not quite right if you keep breaking them, they should last for years if installed correctly. Install note : Do note when installing the actuators, make sure they are 'free' running for the full length of actuator's throw and are not binding on bodywork or pushing past their limit, which will damage things ... Ciao, Bantum ... Edited December 21, 2015 by Bantum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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