Is this normal,my Subaru had a raping noise that I thought was an idler for the belt.than it would not idle and finally it would not start.code said 1 3 5 misfire.last attempt to start it ,it just stoked ,engine seized.removed timing cover and found lower idler sprockets,that drives both sides to have what seems like the bearing missing. Could it be the missing pieces are stuck in my pump ,I'll check tomorrow, I thought the timing chains lasted forever on these.how much from the pic is missing.

Edited March 8, 201511 yr by mikedarija

did the bolt shear off or stay intact?  what position/condition was this part in when you took the cover off?

 

part #11 shows a bolt and three parts:

1. bolt

2. pulley

3. sleeve

4. washer

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_8/engine/camshaft_and_timing_belt/illustration_1/

 

the timing chains do generally last forever.  but it is a complicated mechanical device doing some serious work, so bad things do happen.  it's probably either been worked on before or oil was likely compromised - not changed in a long time or something.  the chain components and oil galleys need good clean oil supply.

Every think was intact ,bolt did not shear. I believe from your illustration the center of the sprocket ,bearing disintegrated, there was lots of fine metal dust under it,I'm wondering now why engine is seized.pan to day and oil pump.

if the timing slipped, there is likely valve-piston interference with bent valves.

 

unless you want a 'project' - just get another engine to drop in.

Where is the best place to get an engine .I can turn the engine by hand only an eight of a turn before it binds,I'm not putting and extra force on it,but I think the damage has been done.two timing marks,lines on sprokets on right viewed from from front are not up and down.

I mostly see car-part.com mentioned. Certainly , if there are local yards with wrecked soobs in them, you'd check there first. Nowadays, most auto recyclers share inventories on a national network i guess.

JDM engines if you trust those  jdmenginedpot and others

www.car-part.com

 

online forums.

I mostly see car-part.com mentioned. Certainly , if there are local yards with wrecked soobs in them, you'd check there first. Nowadays, most auto recyclers share inventories on a national network i guess.

+1 on buying Subie parts through listings on car-part.com. I have done this several times with great results every time. Yards are listed by U S geographical location, so easy to dial in on yards in your area.

That's the way to go.since the bushing disintegrated it seems the whole inside of the timing cover has very fine metal shavings and I'm sure it went through the whole engine.my daughter still owes on the car so car parts.com I guess.so I pulled my engine hoist out .

Any secrets short cuts to removing this engine.last time I did this it was all v8's and 6 cylinder.one gas line and a few wires.

GG and others can give detailed info - certainly extra attention should be paid to keeping the torque converter in place if at all possible.

 

Remove hood or use the 'alternate' hood prop location (may need to unhook windshield washer hoses)

 

nothing fancy to a subaru engine removal - being unfamiliar can make you dislike it though depending on you.

 

general Subaru notes, this is true of every Subaru engine since the 1980's and i presume further:

unbolt A/C compressor and flip to the drivers side leaving lines attached, no need to discharge.  bunjee or ratchet straps will help hold it out of the way when pulling, but not necessary.

unbolt Power steering and slide it over to the passengers side - same thing, no fluid removal needed.

some people have a real issue with the torque converter bolts - i don't.  i've used wrenches and 12mm socket on a 1/4" drive to remove and install them without issue.  others remove the intake manifold.

 

support the transmission up in the air - the transmission is only held up by the engine and hence it needs supported for the two long lower studs to pull all the way out.

 

the engine needs to come up above the cross member far enough that hte engine mount studs are above it.

 

when reinstalling - make sure the transmission is supported high enough that the engine can go back in and those lower two studs can slide into place.  if the transmission isn't high enough the engine will just bang into the crossmember and not seem to line up.

 

engine removal:

unbolt 14mm exhaust nuts - heat/rust are problematic here.  use a 6 point socket only

unbolt 14 mm engine mount nuts

remove starter, engine mount/dogbone up top

disconnect alternator wiring and main intake manifold electrical connectors on rear passengers side

remove air intake stuffs.  the old brittle plastic PCV and vaccuum lines are going to want to break particularly if it's cold.

 

torque converter:

it's best to keep it seated - don't have it come out of the transmission.  you can push back through the bellhousing access hole before pulling the engine.  the TC can slide back about a 1/4" once unbolted from the flexplate. it may not want too because the center portion is corroded in place on the flexplate, but with a little effort you can keep it pushed back/seated so you don't have to concern yourself wiht it during install.

 

when reinstalling - make absolutely certain the torque converter is fully seated or the oil pump will be broken during install.

when the engine is installed the torque converter and flex plate do not touch.  installing the torque converter to flex plate bolts draws them together.

by knowing that  - you can simply measure the distance of:

A. the flexplate from the engine bellhousing mating surface.

B.  the torque converter to transmission bellhnousing mating surface.

 

those distances should add/subtract such that the two will not touch when installed.

 

if it does become unseated it's sort of an art to fully seat it sometimes.  while supporting the weight of the converter with one finger, spin it, spin it, then slide it back, try again, try again, try again until it seats.

if it comes all the way out - like if you install a new torque converter seal while you're in there - then be advised you may need it to seat to two different depths - it may seat once...and then again.  there's like two stopping points so to speak.

 

again - refer to the measuring exercise mentioned earlier - that keeps it straightforward.

the two lower engine mount nuts are 14mm and slightly annoying to get too.  it can be done without any extra work. 

 

i've done enough that i just get annoyed and keep at it from above - but sometimes it's easier if you remove the drivers side front axle from the trans and attack it from down below. 

I did an EZ30 swap a few months ago on my wife's car. It's an identical process to any other subaru motor swap. Just a bigger motor and slightly tighter fit.

 

If you've done one subaru you've probably done them all.

Edited March 10, 201511 yr by AdventureSubaru

Top all disconnected,not to bad so far.