Skip to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

Ultimate Subaru Message Board

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

2001 rear cross member rusted out

Featured Replies

After rebuilding engine due to leaky headgaskets and replacing all 4 struts/springs and rotor/pads the rear cross member decided to throw in the towel. I did the work myself on the other stuff but i'm not too excited about about the newest issue. I bought the car 2 years ago as a beater specifically for the winter commute but I like it and its grown on the family.

 

What I need is advice about the hassle of replacing the rusted out bits. As far as I can tell its just the cross member and bar that connects the differential. All the bolts are extremely rusty and look like they'll break or at least have the heads flake apart.

 

I don't have a lift but can get access to one. How many hours of fun am I looking at and is it worth it? The car only has 97k on it and has had a bunch of stuff replaced but she's very rusty underneath and has rusty spots by the wheel wells.

 

Any advice about fixing or selling?

Pics could help, but if it's that rusted out that the bolts are bad, they're likely to snap and give you no end of grief trying to remove them.

 

Could be easier finding a less rusty but high-miles Forester/Outback with a blown HG and just swap in your fresh EJ251, part out your current one and make some money back...

Unfortunately that's a common problem with those years.

 

The bolts on those are actually pretty tough, the bigger problem is going to be if the captive nuts inside the body have rusted. If the welds on those break the nut will just spin with the bolt then you have to cut a hole in the floor to get access to the nut. If the car is heavily rusted you might be better off to find a car with less rust and swap your suspension and engine.

  • Author

Thanks for your replies. I checked on the recall and the original owner had it "rust proofed" at her local dealer in 2003. I was assuming it was considered part of the frame although it provides connection points for some of the suspension in the rear.

I hadn't thought of the nut stepping out in the frame. That might seal her fate. Thanks again.

Thanks for your replies. I checked on the recall and the original owner had it "rust proofed" at her local dealer in 2003. I was assuming it was considered part of the frame although it provides connection points for some of the suspension in the rear.

I hadn't thought of the nut stepping out in the frame. That might seal her fate. Thanks again.

Not a big fan of after market rust proofing by a dealer or anyone else. It just does not do much to prevent rust. Don't think much rust proofing is applied to the frame members, or suspension parts.

Please sign in to comment

You will be able to leave a comment after signing in

Sign In Now

Account

Navigation

Search

Search

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.