I have an EA 81 1984 GL wagon. Tonight I was working on it and this vacuum hose broke off. Is it required for engine performance? The vacuum hose in question is the one that my lower finger is pointing to. The hose seems to look into what my vacuum diagram calls the air control vacuum valve . There are a whole bunch of other vacuum hose connecting to it.

The broken hose actuates the air control valve when vacuum is allowed thru by the associated thermovalve.at high temps.

I think you can have a non operating air control valve without great ill effect.

 

You will want to plug the vacuum line or else you will have a vacuum leak w/the thermovalve opens.

Naru is it high temps or operating temps? I do not know. If it is then essentially having the valve unhooked is just plugging them.

If this critter is the one im thinking of its kinda a fuel system/metering component. The actuation hose comes from the thermo valve and manifold vac port. The others are loopdy loos with orifices in them that in theory go from the carb to the air cleaner

In my attempts to remove feedback systems i recall messing with one these to replace the feedback control solenoids. After replacing the carb with a non feedback and removing the crap I think I ended up just running these ports straight to the air cleaner (with the orifice intact), or plugging them. i cant remeber which way was better because none of it was great. In the end the car was SPFI converted and that part of my life has just become a fuzzy memory.

Underhood temps in the 49 state 4wd diagram I looked at.

It opens(widens?) the primary barrel air bleeds thus leaning the carb out.

Thanks for the help guys (mostly naru), I was able to jerry rig it for now. any Idea where I can buy a new one? Already searched a pick & pull where they had an 82 GL but it had the wrong carb and none of these air control valves 

Edited April 13, 201510 yr by Sapper 157

If you dont have vehicle inspections in ID, just remove every bit of that emission junk, you Hitachi will thank you. I've done it, with photos to both my EA81s. Look at my '83 Hardtop thread in the Members rides section for photos and info on what to remove and reroute.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147986-my-83-gl-coupe-hardtop-sss/?p=1280249

You can scour the web looking for this part. Odds are good some form of purge valve or gizmo could be used off another vehicle. Is it worth it? Im sorry my last post was poorly composed i often whip these out on my phone while taking breaks from working on my car.
To answer your origional question: you are going to have too do some work. There are several calibrations/configurations of thses systems per model year. Im not going to spend 40 mins looking through my service manuals to find out when the ports the valve controls should be open. Its not worth it. Some calibrations actually had them open all the time...

Remove the valve and plug the manifold vac line.
Route the origional lines with the restriction orifices intact from the carb ports to the air cleaner.
Drive the car. (for the day not just around the block)
Now remove the installed hoses and plug the ports on the carb.
Drive the car same as above, and decide which way runs better.
The hitachi was designed with these ports for a reason. I agree with the previous poster and I've told you befor "its time to thin out your emissions system". But I loosely consider the component in question an emission component. Befor it can be deleted the above experiment should be performed. Im unsure if this is some sort of overtemp prevention method or a cold driveability improvement system.

Edited April 13, 201510 yr by ihscout54